ebay saw

[DeerMeadowFarm]

Just got a reconditioned 372XP off of ebay. After sitting in my heated basement for two days I noticed it was leaking bar oil:


 

I've has saws leak before. Not the end of the world but an annoyance for sure. I put some premix in, fired it up, and it ran good. I put it back in my basement and helped the little lady with setting up trees and decorating for a couple of hours. When I went back downstairs, all I could smell was fuel.  >:(

I think it's leaking out of the bottom of the tank:


 

I contacted the seller. He said to try to epoxy the tank.... Anyone here ever have any luck doing that? If so, what did you use?

Thanks in advance.

[ET]

Ive never had a leaky tank in a saw, but i have had them in gen sets and law mowers. Ive never had any luck in getting them to seal, and i tried everything under the sun. Especially if its on a seam.  Ernie

[DeerMeadowFarm]

Anyone use Huztl parts? Their tanks on ebay are less than half and OEM cost...?

[jhellwig]

I would think that if the saw was sold as reconditioned the guy should pay to replace the handle.

[DeerMeadowFarm]

I would think that if the saw was sold as reconditioned the guy should pay to replace the handle.

Me too. He wants me to try epoxy first....

[ZeroJunk]

Unless you got a really good deal I would send it back. The seller has no choice. If you file a not as described claim PayPal will give you your money back, period.

I have used JB weld for smaller leaks and it held. Some guys have had success using a soldering iron and melting it back together. But, that looks like a long crack in a spot that is going to hit every time you sit the saw down.

[thecfarm]

That is leaking both bar oil and gas?? He must of known that when he was selling it.  :

[DeerMeadowFarm]

He claims it didn't leak when he had it in his shed.... This is his advice:

Hi Rich, I can't tell you exactly why it's leaking, I have saws that leak a little and really don't worry about it.  Unless they're leaking all the bar oil out it shouldn't be that big of a deal.  The gas tank picture that you show is probably not where it's leaking out but if you wanted to fill that you could do so with epoxy.  My best advice is to get a chain on there and also store it somewhere where the temp is consistent.  I was reading up on this and some people were saying their saws leak when they're in a room that warms up during the day and colder at night since pressure builds up the oil will come out the path of least resistance.   So start by checking the plug I mentioned earlier.  Throw a bar and chain on and lets see if that takes care of us.

[JohnG28]

That's a pretty clear crack down the seam and it looks like more forming too. I'd return it if he won't give you a new tank.

[thecfarm]

I got looking more at the leak. Almost looks like someone tried to fix it.

[DeerMeadowFarm]

That's a pretty clear crack down the seam and it looks like more forming too. I'd return it if he won't give you a new tank.

I'd be OK with another used, non-leaking tank which is what I asked him for now.

[Bandmill Bandit]

I have used a hot glue gun very successfully on my small saw. Have not had any leaking issues so far and it been glued for about 2 years. 

[nmurph]

Send it back or use a soldering iron with a thinned tip to "plow" the seam and then roll the edges back over the seam, smoothing the whole seam when you're done. I've done quite a few using this method and never had one leak. A soldering gun can also be used to fuse cracked plastic covers back together.
I would not use epoxy- it will leak eventually.

[mmartone]

Really soldering iron.. with that gasoline..  I'd demand my money back, he can fix it. Find another saw, theres always 372s on fleabay.

[beenthere]

If me, I wouldn't try anything to fix it....send it back.. the seller can fix it and re-sell it as a repaired saw.
If at all possible, that is what I'd do.

[Paul_H]

I also use the soldering iron method like Murph suggest.It works well.

[clww]

As long as it wasn't in the description, I'd send it back and demand a complete refund, too.

[nmurph]

The soldering iron repair is easy, safe, and effective.

Here are some more explicit directions...I was at work and didn't have time to give the detail.

Shape soldering iron tip like a flat screwdriver blade. Turn it sideways and plow it down the seam a 1/4" deep or so to open it up. Then make another pass down each side of the first one but not as deep. This will make a bead/ridge over the original seam. Then lay the tip flat and run it down the ridge and flatten it down some. Then take the tip and press it into the seam crosswise every couple millimeters (it will look like a fish bone or a zipper). Then lay the tip flat and make one more pass down the seam to smooth everything up. I can do this in 2-3 minutes for a leak the size of the one in this thread.

I have done this many times...it will hold perfectly.

Now about the saw in question...if you got a good deal and the saw is in good shape otherwise. Then work with the seller to adjust the price to make you both happy.

[DeerMeadowFarm]

The seller agreed to send me another tank.

Now all I need to do is figure out how to swap them! Any help?  :-[

[Knute]

Looks like the same saw returned about a month ago. Can you tell me who the seller was? If the same saw, also had an air leak at that time.

[Higgins]

Dump that sucker and move on...

[DeerMeadowFarm]

Looks like the same saw returned about a month ago. Can you tell me who the seller was? If the same saw, also had an air leak at that time.

PM sent

[nmurph]

You need a 5mm hex and a piece of wire. The wrench will remove bolts and the wire is used to pull the fuel line through the tank.

It's about a 30 minute project.

Loosen the carb bolts, remove the fuel line from the barb, and pull the throttle cable from its fixation.

Remove front handle.

Remove the starter cover.

Locate the spring AV's and remove the bolt. Then reach through them to loosen the bolts that are hidden in the back to remove them from the old tank (assuming the new tank doesn't come with them on it) - this will remove the tank from the crankcase. Attach the AV to the new tank.

I use a thin piece of wire doubled into a loop and inserted through the upper part of the fuel tank. Place the fuel line (I suggest you get a new fuel line and filter, as well as an impulse line from your dealer- I suggest you also check the intake boot carefully for tears. It's a cheap and easy part to replace at the point.) in the end of the loop and crimp it down (you only need an 1/8" or so) and put a little oil on the line and pull it through about 2 inches. Leave the wire attached so that you can use it to thread the fuel line through the carb box plate.

Loosely position the crankcase over the tank and pull the fuel line through the carb box plate. Then reverse to assemble.

[Jiles]

For what it is worth--that's the reason I never buy ANYTHING stating it has been  refurbished, or rebuilt.
I have repaired many fuel tanks, including chain saws, and through experimentation have discovered the best repair is made with a product called SEAL-ALL. It works good if the surface is cleaned and "roughed up". I would make repair to inside if possible.
You might consider this as a spare, if you receive a good tank.
Most auto parts stores have Seal-all.

[DeerMeadowFarm]

For what it is worth--that's the reason I never buy ANYTHING stating it has been  refurbished, or rebuilt.

I know, I know...... This seller had an excellent rating; all positive comments and he's done about a dozen 372's on e-bay this year. He's working with me to resolve this. He sent out a tank priority today which I should see in a day or so.