Ruler for leveling log??

[vfauto]

What is everyone using for a ruler to level logs on the deck? I would like a yard stick type ruler with 1/8" increments readable from both left and right.

[doc henderson]

many of us just use a tape, but it is artsy trying to get a consistent height since the log end may not be near a crossmember.  It is also used to center a pith.  I think I recall @Tom the Sawyer has at least a prototype he has been working on.  some use lasers.  I am sure others will chime in.  It is said for high grade stable wood it is better to saw parallel with the bark.(not level).  @YellowHammer  @Southside  @customsawyer  @Magicman .  I have thought of making a cross bar with an adjustable upright rule, maybe one at each end of the log.   it could also serve as a guide to check clearance on log stops etc.  

[btulloh]

The tape works fine or make a gauge with a sliding pointer. I have a couple boards cut to fit between the rails.  That way I'm not depending on the bunks. The boards just stay between the rails and don't interfere. I move them as needed for different length logs. 

If you make a gauge with a sliding pointer, it doesn't need any markings. 

[WV Sawmiller]

   Don't overthink this thing. I'll wager most of use a carefully calibrated eyeball. About the only time I use a tape measure is to measure the height of the sapwood on my flitches when edging so I set the blade height exactly and don't waste wood or have to make a second pass.

[Chuck White]

As WV said:  Don't over think this thing!

I use a tape measure, it works ok, and it's not a science.

Real close is good!

How many of us get perfect logs anyways?

[moodnacreek]

Considering this is about log taper; if you can spin your logs small end to the saw then you can eyeball the same gap between the bunk and the saw blade.

[Magicman]

Except for oversized logs, I prefer to enter the log's top end rather than the butt end.  Just easier for me to gauge and set up.  I establish/identify my target inside of every log before I open the first face. 


 
My 1¼" 25' tape works very well for me.  For example I can put the tape end in the center of the targeted cant, squat down, and sight across the tops of the bed rails to get a reading on how high that center is above the sawmill bed.  Nothing else to keep up with because the tape is always there.

[DPatton]

I too just use a Stanley tape measure. It's always on my side when sawing.

[Southside]

I will put a tape on some depending on what I am sawing, sometimes I will step to the side of the mill to site the log, and other times it's as simple as running the head over the log and using either the band or the drag back fingers as a gauge of how much taper / sweep exists and go from there.

You will find at times it's a compromise between trying to center the pith, level for taper, and or getting the bark level.  It depends on what you are trying to get out of a log.  Need an 8x8 pith centered cedar post with no wane that is 16' long and your log is 12" on the small end and 21" on the butt end? Best to forget about level bark and get the pith on both ends at the same height.  Your jacket boards are going to vary in length but you will get your post.  Grade sawing hardwood?  Level the bark and don't worry about the pith being out of true as it will go into a RR tie anyway.  

Knowing what you need from a log will help determine the best road to take.  

[YellowHammer]

I am one of the folks who try to not use a tape measure, laser or jig, and I am constantly practicing to calibrate my eyeball.  I look at it as challenge, and I do it to keep things interesting.  I do use a tape on a very valuable log or when I think I'm about to screw up.  Instead of a tape measure, I try to use the geometry of the sawmill as a reference.

So here's how I do it.  For grade sawing, I will be setting the best two faces so I can saw parallel to the bark.  This is pretty easy to set up without a tape measure, and I showed the technique to GAB when he visited some time ago.  Set the head at the far end of the mill, load the log, and eyeball level the log using the tips of the side supports (backrests) as a guide.  Raise them fully, compare them against the top of the log, and adjust the tow boards until the top of the log is in the same plane as the tips of the side supports.  Then set the height of the saw head where the very tips of the drag back fingers just barely touch the bark on the top face of the log and then return the head to the start position, without adjusting the height of the head, dragging the very tips fingers down the top of the log, using them as indicators.  If the height is adjusted correctly, and the top of the log is parallel to the bed, the fingers will stay the same height above the bark, just barely skimming the entire length of the log.  If the top of the log isn't level, it will be obvious, as the finger tips change height relative to the log surface.  So basically, load the log, eyeball level using the tops of the backstops, touch the fingers to the top of the log, pull the head back, make adjustment to the toeboards while the head is in transit, then clear the log, drop the head and get to sawing.  It's pretty fast.

When quartersawing, I'll walk to the far end of the log and eyeball the center of the pith, try to pick a landmark of the log I can see from the far end, and then load the log.  Then I'll set the top of the backstops to where I estimate the landmark and therefore, the center of the pith is on the far end I can't see.  If the backstops aren't tall enough, then I'll estimate how shy they are, and then I'll set the height of the near end of the log to the same relative height above the tips of the backstops.  So at that point, I'll take a shallow cut, and look at the near end and then walk to the far end and if I did everything right, the cut was good, within at least 1/4" of the pith on both ends.  If not, then I will take the tape measure and measure DOWN from the actual face of the new cut to the pith on both ends.  This is much more accurate than measure from the bed up, as this is from the actual cut.  Then I'll toe board one end up or down and make a second test cut and this one should be dead on.  Then I'll rotate 90 and cut that, and since the toe boards are already adjusted, most time the 90 degree cut is pretty close or even dead on.  Then I'll turn 180 for both and will have a very accurate cant.  At that point the cant needs to be gun barreled, and this is where I will rotate to the corner, and again sight down the backrests and try to eyeball the cut to be parrallel to the backstops.  If the cut was good, then the sides of the face of the gun barreled face will be in the shape of a rectangle, not a trapezoid.  If it's not a rectangle, I make an adjustment and clean it up.

All this may sound complicated and confusing but its harder to explain typing than to just see it in action.  I probably have confused everyone, but it's like trying to explain how to hit a baseball or make a basket.

[Southside]

but it's like trying to explain how to hit a baseball or make a basket.

Not really hard, if you use Ash and weave it....:D 

[Nebraska]

 I found a 24 inch  magnetic ruler  it rides on the cross bar on the mill it's what I use more than my tape measure. Harder to loose when it's right by my face when I push the mill.

[Ljohnsaw]

I use a 4' level laid across my tracks (42" wide) and then use a 4' aluminum rule (actually a drywall T-square) and measure up tor the level.  I can use it anywhere on my tracks.

[Brad_bb]

Leveling was a really slow process for me in the beginning, but now I've become pretty fast at it unless the log is really funky and shimming to keep it level is the issue.

I have a board who's thickness is the same as the height of my bunks above the tops of the rails (i have an LT15 which is a 2 rail mill).  I just lay the board across and measure form it to the pith. 

When you measure a height difference from end to end. raise the low end by just a little under half of that and check it.  Remember that when you raise one end you can lower the other.

[donbj]

The little coiled spring that you line up with the blade on my LT40 works just fine for me. That and always have the small end of the log at the start of the cut. 

[carhartted]

I use an aluminum framing square.

[kelLOGg]

I made two T squares - one for each end so I don't have to move one back and forth forgetting where I used it last.

[John Bartley]

I probably do much like most others :

- I like to cut from the small end to the big end of a log if possible.
- depending on the the wood I'll open up parallel to bark (big$ wood) or to heart (small$ wood)
- I have a chunk of 2"x2" with notches on one side that sits on the frame rails. From there I just measure up until I get either heart or top bark level.
- I also have a laser jig that I made from a $10 hardware store laser level.  It's neither faster nor more accurate than my tape measure.

[GAB]

One section of MM's post: I prefer to enter the log's top end rather than the butt end.  

I find that if I set up the logs so that I enter the log's top end as MM stated then I use the closest leveling roller and am less apt to make long or very long tapers.  I don't think I desire to see the doors that would use some of the tapers I've made.

[GAB]

Partial quote from Brad's post: Remember that when you raise one end you can lower the other.

If the large end of the log is just on a bed rail the center will not change enough to consider when playing with the small end, however if you have a log with a lot of butt flare then you may want the log end to be past a bed rail by some otherwise you may not have enough roller leveling height.
Many factors come into play, and many decisions need to be made, when sawing and depending on equipment and manpower availability the decisions will vary from one site to another with roughly identical logs.
I hope many of you did very well in your physics classes.
Happy Sawing and remember Mother Nature does not allow drop outs.
GAB

[taylorsmissbeehaven]

I agree with a quick check of the tape on the valuable ones and a good eyeballing on the others. My biggest challenge is remembering to drop the toe boards back down . Brian

[moosehunter]

I use a plastic 24" level with an inch scale on the side. Pretty inexpensive and takes a lot of abuse. I use it leveling the mill then while sawing for measuring. Used to be the big box stores had them but haven't seen one with the scale on it in a couple years. The old time hardware stores seem to be the place to find them. $7 last one I bought.

mh

[Peter Drouin]

I use my eye out to 25', tape out to 45'.

[doc henderson]

put this on the laser this eve.  2 inch wide (after cut on table saw)  1/4 inch thick maple 24 inch long.  big enough for @Magicman to see from 10 paces.



 

[Southside]

1/4 inch thick maple

Oh - ok, I have heard this before....:D

[doc henderson]

@Southside i will make you one with chickens, instead of numbers, but it will only be 10 inches long cause no one wants you to take off your shoes!!! 8) 8) 8) 8) :D :D :D :D ;) smiley_airfreshener

[Southside]

 :D  :D  :D  :D 

[Magicman]

big enough for Magicman to see from 10 paces.

So do you want me to look with my Left Eye?


 
Or my Right Eye??  

[doc henderson]

hope you are ok!  did you have eye surgery?  

[Nebraska]

Ditto, was chuckling at the thread, not a good look. 

[Magicman]

No, just battle scars from years past.  It is sometime painful to get as old as I am. 

Wanna see my toes?? 

[doc henderson]

sorry @Magicman I am off work today, and I am not sure how far this is going!!! :D :D :D

[Old Greenhorn]

No, just battle scars from years past.  It is sometime painful to get as old as I am.  

Wanna see my toes??  

Chicks dig scars. :D ;D
 However, the foot thing, probably not. ;D

[doc henderson]

@Magicman now i see why you are so respectful when referring to your wife Ms. Pat.      .  looks like she keeps you in line!!! :D  @Southside i got a prototype "southside special ruler" done in your honor.  I went up to 24 if you promise to keep your shoes on!  ;)  



 



 



 

[Southside]

Ha ha ha! I love it!!

[Old Greenhorn]

Oh my! That is just precious! (and just a little sick and weird, but I guess that is what makes it special.) You guys are something else. Doc, you are a little messed up. ;D ;D 8)

[Magicman]

Sometime I use this:


 


 



  But it only measures feet.

[Andries]

What?
No metric feet?
Like, with ten toes per foot ?

[WV Sawmiller]

   Where are the PC police when you really need one? :D :D

[Ianab]

Reminds me of the Rarotonga scenic flight we took a few year back. We had booked out of our beach house, returned the rental scooter, checked our bags, had lunch in town and still had a few hours to fill. 

Back at the airport, oohh look, scenic flights for $XX. Jump in a trusty Cessna and off we go. 

Check the Island Style "No Step" decal.

[Magicman]

I know that he is just trying to feather his nest but I am waiting for the rest of doc's eggs to hatch.  Guess that he could build a fire with the ruler and have a.....


 
Chickin Crispin. 

[WV Sawmiller]

   Do you think those are done enough? : :

[Magicman]

They certainly earned their name!  :

[terrifictimbersllc]

I know that he is just trying to feather his nest but I am waiting for the rest of doc's eggs to hatch.  Guess that he could build a fire with the ruler and have a.....


 
Chickin Crispin.  

All the chickens on his ruler WERE "Crispin'd"  :D

[Ljohnsaw]

Hmm, every thread ends up with food - but no grits yet?

I just made this up from some aluminum 1/8" x 1" stock I had laying around.  I had the last 2 feet of a 12' stick on measure (for radial arm bench).  It doesn't matter what the number is, just a reference to the pith.  The wing nut allow for sliding the vertical to match where the log is and it can be taken off to store as a single 4' long stick.