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Jerry Can for fuel tank

Started by quadracutter222, October 17, 2018, 11:05:18 PM

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quadracutter222

In an effort to get up and running I am wondering if its possible to use a plastic jerry can for as a fuel tank.  The old tank has rust and debris is being repurposed as the lube tank, so I am looking into new options either pre-built or custom, with the latter being rather expensive.  The old tank is approximately 10" deep/15" wide/16" tall.  

There must be some type of double barb bulkhead that can be adapted to the yellow cap on a jerry can, or perhaps a marine tank?

Thanks for the help!  The to-do list is getting shorter, the countdown to saw-dust is on!

sawguy21

Welcome to a fellow British Columbian! I have seen jerry cans used as fuel tanks but marine tanks are cheap and a lot safer.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Tramp Bushler

My Mighty Mite uses a 5 gal steel Jerry can for a fuel tank. Came from the factory that way. But its a steel Jerry can. For a plastic jug, I don't know ?
.
If your not wearing your hard hat when you need it. Well.

jb616

I'm using a marine fuel tank that I had sitting around. Use the primer bulb to get the fuel flowing or an electric pump that comes on with the key and your'e good to go! I made a shelf for my lt30 on the opposite side of the mast and it will help counterbalance the engine as well. Don't forget at least one inline filter and new fuel line to save yourself a lot of headaches down the road. I originally had it hanging on the mast by the water jug but found that to be a hassle as you need enough fuel line when the engine is at the bottom sawing that last inch and to be able to take up the fuel line when your'e making the first cut on that 28" log. Better to be on the same plane as the engine. So my vote is for the marine tank as it's made for that anyway, it's easy to hook up, it's safer as sawguy21 said, and you don't have to worry about vent issues. 

kelLOGg

My MP32 gas tank is plastic. Feeds from the top. Mill (and tank) are 16 yo and no problems.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Banjo picker

My AC 36 is the same.  Holds about 12 gal. of diesel.  Mill is 10 years old and no problems.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Crusarius

I am using a normal plastic jerry can for my fuel tank. works great. When it is empty I turn off the shutoff I have right at the lid to the tank, lift the can off the platform and replace with full one then put the cap on it open the valve and off I go. If I catch it before its completely empty I do not have to worry about priming the line since the shutoff keeps the fuel in it.

I love how easy it is to change tanks and not have to try to fill them on the mill.

craazyhoss

plastic boat "marine " tank works good

Hilltop366

I used a regular gas can, it is low cost (I already had some) and like Crusarius says it is quick and easy to switch tanks.

I drilled a hole in the yellow cap that was a bit smaller than the heavy black fuel line and then shoved the line through no sealer or fitting was used no leaks no water got in with the mill sitting outside for years.

The tanks I used were the old kind with a vent and I would leave the vent cap a tiny bit loose, with a newer can with no vent one could put a second small line in the yellow cap and run a hose through the hole a little bit then run up the fuel line a few inches and loop back down and fasten the vent line to the fuel line with some zip ties.

Crusarius

you probably don't need a vent line with your setup. I do not run one and I did the same thing for line through the cap.

charles mann

 The currently used US military jerry cans have a special cap so the cans can be used for more than storage.
The cap has a fitting with a qd, just like an airhose, but smaller, and a vent line with a ball type check valve.
Build a "V" cradle for the can to sit, cap down, at the lowest point and away you go.
Going to buy a couple caps, a new donkey spout and a couple more cans, for fueling the tractor, mill, or the occassional grass that doesnt want to burn. Iv got 4 cans now, but a few more cant hurt.

here is a link to the fuel caps for use a fuel tank, more than just a storage can.
Accessories - Scepter Military - Civilian
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Hilltop366

Quote from: Crusarius on October 18, 2018, 09:32:11 AM
you probably don't need a vent line with your setup. I do not run one and I did the same thing for line through the cap.

One could just crack open the filler cap to allow air in but I know myself well enough to know I would forget to tighten it and allow water to get in to the tank.
 

Bandmill Bandit

 



As you can see that tank is a jerry can. Its been on the mill for 6 years and was probably 25 or 30 years old when I put it on the mill. I wish you could still get jerry cans of the quality and size. I holds about 6 Imperial gallons. the plastic is thick enough that I was able to thread the fitting for the fuel line connections into it.

There a lot of options in marine tank profiles and sizes that I am sure you could make fit. FYI Most marine tank caps have a vent built in to them so venting isnt an issue.    
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Crusarius

I went with the 5 gallon plastic can cause I could not find a boat tank that the shape worked for me. and they cost well over the $15 it cost me for a plastic can.

quadracutter222

Thanks Folks!  

I will look for a marine tank that fits, and use 20L jerrys if there is nothing available.  

I like the shut-off idea right at the tank, will change that up.  I am going to see if there is a double barb bulkhead with a gasket, but if not do the drill and stuff thru method.  Is there a configuration for the inline filter that works best?  I am thinking...pickup line thru the cap, shut off, a short length of fuel line, filter, the line to engine

After I change out the fuel lines, what is the best way to prime the line?  Motor is a Kohler CP 27.

thanks!

charles mann

Quote from: quadracutter222 on October 18, 2018, 03:23:58 PM
 what is the best way to prime the line?  Motor is a Kohler CP 27.

thanks!
Iv got a kohler powering my miller 225 welder and the fuel pump went out. it would take pouring a bit of gas, or spraying ether to get it to start. I got tired of doing that, plus the back firing and catching fire, so i bought a primer bulb for a marine fuel tank and use that now. 3-4 squeezes and it has fuel sitting at the carb. a lil choke and it fires rite up. if i let it sit an hr or so, but yet still warm, i have to squeeze a few times, but no choke. 
 
I will be putting a hydraulic qd coupling on my fuel cell so i can disconnect and not loose any fuel prime.
Maybe look to see what size is the smallest hydraulic qd offered and go that route. you won't loose prime unless you run the tank empty or have a weep on the carb side. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Crusarius

I was thinking same thing but then I priced out the fuel QD. I am not going to pay $200 a fitting for the ones I really want. Especially since I would want 3 tanks setup so I can just plug and play

Hilltop366

My mill had the typical lawn tractor vacuum fuel pump on it, never had a issue with restarting from empty it just took a few extra turns on the starter.

The tank was mounted above the engine so once the fuel was drawn above the high point in the line it would siphon feed even if there was no pump. I know this because the float valve stuck open once and filled the engine over night with fuel, I added the inline shutoff after that.

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