iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Trying to change my LT40 manual backstops to hydraulic ones...

Started by WoodenHead, March 29, 2013, 08:39:42 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

WoodenHead

Well, I had some time to tinker today.  First I added my homemade toe rollers to my LT40 manual.  Here are a couple of pictures of that:





Then I was going to quickly swap out (so I thought) two of my manual backstops for hydraulic ones.  I purchased the hydraulic backstops from Woodmizer along with the connecting rod thinking this would save me some effort.  However, it looks like the hydraulic backstops have more to them than I thought.  Here is a picture showing the hydraulic next to a manual one:



The difference is the quarter round piece on the hydraulic backstop.  It would bump into a piece of pipe that is welded to the main box frame of my mill.  I have no idea what the pipe does, but it is in the way.  Alternatively I could cut the quarter round piece from the hydraulic backstop.  I'm not sure why it is there either ???

Here is a clearer picture of the piece of pipe (directly in between both sets of backstops):



If anyone knows what that small piece of pipe is for, I would be interested in knowing.

Road Runner

I think the pipes are the holders for the crank handles for the manual toe boards that come with the log deck package.  If so you would not need them.    I'll try to remember to look at my mill tomorrow. 
I'm interested in what you're doing since I'm thinking about adding hyd. to my manual LT40 also.  Any information on what you have done would be appreciated. 
WM LT40G25, Kubota MX5100, Husqvarna 365 & R460

Brucer

Yes, the pipes are holders for the crank handles. If you don't have manual toeboards, you don't need the holders.

That big quarter circle on the hydraulic stops keeps chunks of bark or wood from getting pinched against the frame when the stops are lowered.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

WoodenHead

Thanks Brucer for confirming that.  I'll grind them off.

Road Runner,

I used the same basic pattern as Pineywoods used.  If you search on "homemade hydraulics pineywoods" there's a lot of good information there for reference.  What you see below in the pictures is my attempt at it using whatever scrap steel I had around.  What I didn't have lying around I got from my dad or the local scrap yard.

In a nutshell the angle is 3" x 3" x 3/8" and bolts through the holes that are used for the manual toe boards.  I had to remove one of the bolts for the stainless steel bed sleeve.  I drilled the holes 1 1/4" from the top to the centre.  The roller is a piece of 3.5" pipe (I was looking for 3") and 5/16" thick with 3/8" flat steel cut with a torch and welded on the ends (and lots of grinding).  The rod is 1" and goes all the way through.  The small pipe is 2" I believe and 1/8" thick or so, used for keeping it together.  The "arms" were some scraps of 7" x 2 1/2" (or there abouts) x 3/8" flat steel.  The rods are 5" apart on centre.  I used 3" x 1/2" x 6" flat steel for bottom cylinder mount.  The cylinders themselves are 2" bore x 6" stroke.

Hopefully that helps.   :)

Thank You Sponsors!