Sawmill Trailer Build

[Timberline]

I have asked questions on and off on here about regarding the trailer for my Linn Lumber headrig that I built last year.  I was delayed by a move to MI and now I am getting geared up to start fabricating again.  I will post pictures as I build and when it's done.

The trailer will ride on one 3500 lb axle with 14" wheels.  I am trying to decide between a 20' to give me roughly 16 ft of cutting distance or 24' to give me roughly 20'.  One thought is that with 14" wheels, the longer I get, the less clearance I will have.

I plan to use 2"x6" either 1/4" or 3/16" tube with 1" inverted angle on top.  For the cross braces/bunks I'm thinking of 2"x8"x3/16" tube, 4" to weld to the rails and 4" to elevate the log enough to cut down to 1". 

What do you all think?  On the 2x6 should it be 1/4 or 3/16?  If I go 24' will I have to go with 1/4?

Money is an object with this project, so thats why I ask.  Also, how far apart should the bunks be?  Would 36" be adequate or should I be closer to 30"? 

By the way, it will be supported by 3, 2k lb jacks on each side.  I also am thinking about a hydraulic log loader and turner in the future.

One last thing, my $8 V groove wheels are 4" while the tube they are supposed to go inside are 2.5"  :(
What's the best way to go about correcting this?  If I weld tabs on the bottom of the 2.5" tube, I will run into a problem with cutting down to 1" since the headrig will be so high.  I am thinking the only option is to cut out the top of the 2.5" tube and let the top of the wheels stick out.  Seems like it will reduce the strength, but I don't see any other way.  Maybe that much strength isn't required here???  It's 3/16" tube, will this be a problem?

[fishpharmer]

If you plan on adding hydraulics use the heavier material.  Log bunk spacing should be 30" for 20 foot bed and 36" for 24 foot bed, primarily so they come out even, either should be strong enough, imo.  I used C channel for bunks, seems like it was cheaper than tubing.

If your rollers need to be higher, could you raise the bunks an equal distance so head clearance is still 1 inch?

Hope it helps.

[Timberline]

Thanks for the insight.  I never thought of using farther spacing for a longer track, but it sounds good to me since I wouldn't have to buy more than a 24 footer for the bunks.  Channel is a good idea since it is cheaper.

[york]

Timberline,you could go on you tube,look for Texas ben and see how he builds,he has some good ideas...albert

[thecfarm]

I would go with the longer track. I have a manual mill that will cut a 20 foot log,never have. But with a 20 foot mill you will have 4 feet more to put your log on instead of inches. Not much fun to move a log lengthwise on a manual mill 6 inches,because it is too far forward or back. Also gives me more room to get the head out of the way to remove the lumber. Just makes it a lot easier.

[Timberline]

York, I will check out TXBen.

Farm, thats a really great point.  I will go with a 24'.  The question now is how thick the steel needs to be, 3/16 or 1/4?

[Timberline]

Also, does anyone have anymore insight on 30" oc vs 36" bunks on a 24' track?

[Herb Brooks]

24'= 288"   288/30=9.6  288/36=8 288/24=12
Those are the number of bunks you will end up with, evenly spaced for 24'.
I am building one now that is 32' long on 24" centers.  My thought was the closer they were the better for short stuff and narley stuff like root balls and crotches. I could be all wet though.  As of today I have sawn ZERO logs,
goal 6 months I will be asawin.


 

[Timberline]

I like your thought there, Herb.  I would love to go with 24", but if I can get away with 36" it would be a lot cheaper for me.  Using a 24' piece of 2x8 tube 36 oc I can get 7 pieces and stretch it to work for everything minus the two ends which will be 2x4.  Maybe if I ever need to saw something thats short, say 18" I can just put a longer piece of wood under it to span the distance between the bunks.  But I've never sawed a log either, so maybe it's a bad idea ?

Nice looking rig you will have there.  I would like to say I'm planning on sawing in a month or two, but I tend to be optimistic

[beenthere]

They don't have to be evenly spaced, do they? Put 2 or 3 close together in one location where you might be sawing short lengths, and space them further apart as you move away from that one location. Just my thought.... ;)

[Piston]

I think you posted in my thread about a mill extension that I want to build.  I am planning on using the 3/16 based on recommendations from others.  I intend to (eventually) turn my extension into a trailer. 
I'm going to go with 24" centers on my cross braces.  I believe this is what my mill has now, so I want to build it the same way.  Also, I tend to err on the side of caution, to the point of being overkill, and I want to make the extension a bit overkill.  Usually what I think is overkill, is just about right  ;D
I will have to buy 4 sections rather than 3 sections of 24' 3/16's, but I figure it's worth the extra 150 dollars the first time I accidentally drop a large log on it or something.

It may not be necessary, but since I don't want to do the 'calculations' (nor do I know how) I figure I'll build it stronger than I probably need.

[thecfarm]

One of the reason I brought a Thomas Mill Is because of the bunks. The bunks are not welded to the frame,they are movable. I can cut a stove wood length piece of wood
The bunk is shown. I have 4 bunks.



 

It's hard to explain,but here I try.
The green is the bunk.
The upper left is the track.
The upper right shows the support for the bed. The cross member.
Under the green bunk is 2x4 tubing.
When the bolt is tightened that lifts the bunk up against the bed to keep all the bunks the same height,level so called.
There's more pictures that I have posted on other threads in my gallery. Go there to see more.
I don't saw alot of big stuff,it is a manual mill. But a few times I have used my tractor loader to turn them. I have never had to re-level or re-line this mill. When a good size log is turned,it hits kinda hard when it come down. I myself would go with ¼ steel. I'm hard on stuff and don't need to spend time to fix it,because I broke it.

[fishpharmer]

Timberline, nice pictures, you did a great job on your mill build. 8)

The great thing about building your own mill is that you can make it anyway you like.  If you don't like, you can change it later.  My Woodmizer is about (someone will know exactly) 36" on center for log bunks. A very few times it would have been nice to have one in between for short "logs."  On the flip side, long knotty logs( like eastern red cedar) often make me want only one support on each end of it. 

The moveable bunks are neat thecfarm!

Herb brooks, I look forward to hearing more about your mill build.

[losttheplot]

My Norwood has a bunk every 4 feet.

I've never tried sawing anything less than 4ft long.

[Fla._Deadheader]

 Don't use inverted angle on both sides of the mill. Depending on the type wheels you use, 1" X 1" X 1/4" angle with the edge facing up will be plenty strong, as long as the wheel flange doesn't strike the frame that the rails are welded to. . The log never rides that angle.

Also, use a flat center wheel and DON'T make the rails so there is no side play in the wheels, so the saw head doesn't bind in the travel back and forth.. It's nearly impossible to get that rail arrow straight, from welding heat and such. Bands saw precisely on the flat, so, side to side movement just a little, will have NO effect on the lumber.

Also, the 1/4" angle edge has very little area for sawdust to collect and cause bumpiness and possibly bark wedging in the wheel and rail edge.

Beenthere is right on with bunk spacing. Those bunks can be 4' apart, as long as you arrange for the short log spacing in one area. Are you going to fashion a loader to the frame ?? That's the area to do the narrow spacing.

[Timberline]

Great thoughts and thanks for the compliments on the mill (I will be adding more photos). I've thought of the idea of putting some closer than others, but then some would be more than 36", which may not be a big deal.  I guess one question I have to ask myself is how often will I actually be cutting 2 foot logs?  I will probably just go with 36" and possibly put one of them at 24".  This steel for the trailer is getting expensive, looks like it will be almost $1k    Wish there was a cheaper way to do it, but it will sure be nice when it's finished  ;D

Those moveable bunks are cool, it's a nice design. 

Does anyone have any photos of how they did their tongue?  I need to set up some manual features until I am able to add hydraulics.  It would be great to see some photos of manual log loaders/turners, the kind with the boat winch.  I'm trying to figure out how to attach it to the mill bed.  Anyone know how long the average log ramps are?

[Timberline]

Don't use inverted angle on both sides of the mill. Depending on the type wheels you use, 1" X 1" X 1/4" angle with the edge facing up will be plenty strong, as long as the wheel flange doesn't strike the frame that the rails are welded to. . The log never rides that angle.

Also, use a flat center wheel and DON'T make the rails so there is no side play in the wheels, so the saw head doesn't bind in the travel back and forth.. It's nearly impossible to get that rail arrow straight, from welding heat and such. Bands saw precisely on the flat, so, side to side movement just a little, will have NO effect on the lumber.

Also, the 1/4" angle edge has very little area for sawdust to collect and cause bumpiness and possibly bark wedging in the wheel and rail edge.

Beenthere is right on with bunk spacing. Those bunks can be 4' apart, as long as you arrange for the short log spacing in one area. Are you going to fashion a loader to the frame ?? That's the area to do the narrow spacing.

Great info!  I was really tempted to put the angle on edge, but I was thinking 1x1 might be too small.  Seems like there is a lot of force for only having 1" against the mill frame.  Do you think the bolts will hold it all right?  Also, my 4" v groove wheels don't allow 1/4" angle to slide in all the way.  Is that a problem? 

What do you mean by "flat center wheel"?

I already decided today to cut out the top of the frame tubing where the track wheels attach and put the wheels right in the middle.  I think it should be plenty strong enough.  I will add some sheet metal shrouds to keep the sawdust out.

I am planning on adding a log loader in the future.

[Herb Brooks]

Does anyone have any photos of how they did their tongue? 

/quote]
I take some in a couple a days.

[Herb Brooks]

Herb brooks, I look forward to hearing more about your mill build.
[/quote]
I will post later don't want to hijack this thread. Thanks for your interest.

[Herb Brooks]

They don't have to be evenly spaced, do they? Put 2 or 3 close together in one location where you might be sawing short lengths, and space them further apart as you move away from that one location. Just my thought.... ;)

USMC induced OCD, MUST be dress right dress!

[Lazyguy]

You could use angle iron welded on both sides with a  couple bolts holding tongue on like "Carry-on-trailers".

Or weld on a few tabs with hole to bolt the tong on.
I think that's how oldjarhead did in his lt10 build.

I'd post a photo, but I'm too tired to figure out how to post photo's tonight.

[Piston]

I'd post a photo, but I'm too tired to figure out how to post photo's tonight.

You really live up to your name  :D

[Fla._Deadheader]

"V" groove wheels will track EXACTLY in the center and COULD ride up onto a slightly crooked rail. "Flat" center wheels have room for the wheels to still pass over a slightly crooked rail. One side V and the other side flat would be good, also.

Nothing wrong with using 1¼" angle for the rails, either. Just a few more $$$.  ;D

[Timberline]

Looking forward to seeing the tongue photos.  I'm planning on using 2x2 3/16 tube for it.  I guess I thought I would need to run it underneath the perimeter tube then underneath the first bunk to gain enough strength.  But attaching it just to the perimeter tube would save material.  This is the first trailer I've built so I didn't know how strong the tongue needs to be.

Deadheader, maybe I just need to bite the bullet and buy these: http://linnlumber.com/page17.html

They are made to ride on 3/8.  Will that give me enough wiggle room with 1/4" angle?

[Fla._Deadheader]

Timberline. Is there not a Vo-Tech school near you, or, someone with a lathe ?? They are extremely easy to make. I assume you are talking about those wheels. ? Look around more and you

Of course, You could buy them.  :