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Where to bend the tooth for setting?

Started by LeeB, July 27, 2009, 02:20:27 PM

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LeeB

I was looking at the suffulk website this morning (last night for most of you) and noticed that they set their teeth halfway up the tooth. Seems to me that this would cause problems later when resetting after a few sharpenings. I pretty much set mine up to bend the tooth right at the gullet. I use a suffolk dual tooth setter that came with the mill when I bought it used. No instructions for the setter,  so I just use like I figured would be best. Any thoughts or comments on where to put the bend?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Tom

I always set my clamp at the bottom of the gullet and placed the "hammer" just beneath the tip of the tooth.  That, in my estimation, gives a slow bend from the gullet to the tip.

I've seen pictures of teeth set with a sharp bend on the upper 1/3 of the tooth and have the same feeling about it as you do.

Fla._Deadheader

All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

ely

not cetain where i clamp at. but i push just below the tip of the tooth.

Chuck White

The instructions that came with my Cooks Single Tooth Setter say:
"Allow the adjustable bolt point to make contact slightly below the sharp point.  The rule is to make your set or bend as high up the tooth as you can without damaging the tooth."

I adjust mine to set the blade with the bottom of the gullet just above the clamp of the setter.  This will put the adjustable bolt just below the point of the tooth.

Chuck
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Puffergas

Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

woodmills1

did I repeat. I don't like setting............... ??? rather fill the dump with a............ :D :D ;D :D ;D :D spoon
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

backwoods sawyer

I keep the top of the gullet flush with the clamp. Seeing a saw with just the tip set makes me wonder about how much wear the gullets will get from sawdust spilling out. By putting a gradual bend on the whole tooth it seems that it would carry the sawdust out of the cut. There by reducing wear on the sides of the gullet. 

Hmmm setting teeth verse filling the dump with a spoon. At least the beer would not have that garbage after taste if you chose setting the teeth. 
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

bandmiller2

Never really gave it much thought clamp near the bottom of the gullet push on the top.Some teeth are induction hardened about half way down the tooth you would have to bend below that.Their springy little devals i just let them bend where they want.It tough to just bend the tips,but I think the band would run easier if you can.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Cedarman

Sometimes there are burrs on the inside of the blade left from sharpening.  Therefore I make sure the backplate is just below the gullet.  If the burr pushes the blade away from the backplate then you will get false readings on the set.
Or you can make sure there are no burrs by deburring the inside gullet.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

Chuck White

If you put the blade in the setter so that the gullet is even or slightly above the clamp, and  push the tooth just below the point, it will put a gradual bend all the way to the bottom of the gullet!  Although the tip will be bent a little more than the base of the tooth.

Chuck
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Tom

Cedarman,
Setting before Sharpening takes care of that burr problem.   :)

moonhill

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/dual_tooth_setter.asp

I do know if you try to set less than half you risk snapping the tip of the tooth off :o

Under Extra Benefits they list longer blade life as a bonus for setting only the top half.  Art also mentions the gullet and proper set allows just the right amount of dust to slip out and stabilize the band.

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

Cedarman

Tom,  usually the burrs are gone after running on the mill, but sometimes especially for blades that are on the mill for only a pass or two because of "whatever"  there are burrs.  Just something to watch out for.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

Tom


Puffergas

I use a piece of HSS to help remove the burrrrrrrrrrrrs.

Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

Andy Harden

The Suffolk dual tooth setter comes with a small plastic gage that sets the height of the blade that sticks out of the setter. This supposedly gives the best set. Some of the "little fingers" around here borrows the gage to play with and I have set the blade at the gullet height and can not tell that much difference. Every thing seems to run better following the owner's manual.

moonhill

I lost my little plastic gauge and that is when I snapped the teeth off. 

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

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