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Good Quartersawing vid

Started by JohnM, December 18, 2013, 09:44:06 PM

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JohnM

Maybe you guys have seen this but thought it was worth posting.  As a swing saw owner it doesn't really apply as much to me but still learned some stuff. :)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvUPJPFg4wM
Lucas 830 w/ slabber; Kubota L3710; Wallenstein logging winch; Split-fire splitter; Stihl 036; Jonsered 2150

redbeard

Very good presentation, one of my favorite book marks. This is something to show those customers that ask for 50/50 qrt sawing there logs. I show them which boards Iam keeping and then offer there boards. Or they can keep them all for the bf cutting fee. They usually come up with the cash. :laugh:
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

drobertson

thanks johnm, I have seen a few vids, but not this one, pretty good illustration, looks like allot of work,
david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Chuck White

Excellent video, shows how to get the most out of the log!

Only thing, this is where I would switch to hourly rate!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

ladylake

Way too much work with that method.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

dboyt

There are other ways of getting that same cut pattern without flipping the board end-for-end.  The easiest I have found involves cutting the log into quarters, then cutting off the bottom, using the sawmill like a band resaw.  After each cut, rotate the log 90 degrees, and make the next cut off the bottom.  This always keeps a flat side down for stability and parallel cuts.  The down side is that you have to raise the saw above the cant each time to return it.  This might not work on all sawmills, but the Norwood lets me cut down to 1-1/8 thick for a bottom cut and the adjustable clamps and log stops adapt to this kind of cutting.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

redbeard

Another way is to make a cant. Centering the pith then cut your 4 qrt. Then saw from top down flipping the qrt. (Not end for end) Until it gets 2x4 size.
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

Tom L

I've been getting in the habit of cutting a 4 x 4 out of the center of the log and quarter sawing the outside parts
it seems when I leave the center pith on the quarter sawn boards that they will dry with a sweep to them.


by not quartering the center I have had better luck air drying quarter sawn lumber.

bedway

Great post JohnM. Never actually quarter sawing any oak myself i always wondered about the hassel of moving the quarters end for end.

Your process dboyt seems even an old fart like me might be able to do. ;D

schmism



it would seem that if you used the bottom half type.  sawed into 8ths then put several 8ths on the mill at a time and just sawed down to the deck would be faster with less log manupulations
039 Stihl 010AV  NH TC33D FEL, with toys

AnthonyW

It looks like having two sets of back stops (back stops and front stops?) would avoid having to rotate the log end for end. With the two sets, make the first pass with the log against the back stop, then roll the log and slide it to hold against the front stops. The roll it again and slide it against the backstops for the next cut.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

bedway

Quote from: schmism on December 19, 2013, 11:19:39 AM


it would seem that if you used the bottom half type.  sawed into 8ths then put several 8ths on the mill at a time and just sawed down to the deck would be faster with less log manupulations

1/2s, 1/4s, 1/8s, That one lost me :o

Ianab

Quote from: schmism on December 19, 2013, 11:19:39 AM


it would seem that if you used the bottom half type.  sawed into 8ths then put several 8ths on the mill at a time and just sawed down to the deck would be faster with less log manupulations

Possibly, but then you have to clamp the log @ 45°, and edge both sides of each board. Either way, Q-sawing on a band mill does take more messing about, and usually has a slightly lower yield.

The alternating pattern maybe creates less waste?

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

AnthonyW

Though I have not quartersawn anything, so I cannot speak from personal experience. From the photos, it seems like there would be less waste quartersawing. Each quartersawn board could be edged to trim off just the bark. Opposed to generating those large slabs with all that meat (wood) attached. BUT also quartersawn does not generate boards that are as wide and would take more time.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

GDinMaine

Quote from: dboyt on December 19, 2013, 08:30:30 AM
There are other ways of getting that same cut pattern without flipping the board end-for-end.  The easiest I have found involves cutting the log into quarters, then cutting off the bottom, using the sawmill like a band resaw.  After each cut, rotate the log 90 degrees, and make the next cut off the bottom.  This always keeps a flat side down for stability and parallel cuts.  The down side is that you have to raise the saw above the cant each time to return it.  This might not work on all sawmills, but the Norwood lets me cut down to 1-1/8 thick for a bottom cut and the adjustable clamps and log stops adapt to this kind of cutting.

I have quarter sawn birch and poplar logs in the fashion described by dboyt.  I did not switch thecants end-to-end even then it took a long time.  The customer was a carpenter who knew exactly what he was looking for and got the expected result.  He also knew that the process takes a long time and didn't mind paying for it.  He got exactly what he wanted and was happy.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

drobertson

Quote from: AnthonyW on December 19, 2013, 11:25:26 AM
It looks like having two sets of back stops (back stops and front stops?) would avoid having to rotate the log end for end. With the two sets, make the first pass with the log against the back stop, then roll the log and slide it to hold against the front stops. The roll it again and slide it against the backstops for the next cut.
This is a pretty good idea, not just for strictly q-sawing, I've seen the need for reversing the clamp direction arise a few times,  maybe a small pair with adjustable heights, it wouldn't take a real beefy one, just one to stabilize for a few cuts.  david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

OH Boy

Quote from: redbeard on December 19, 2013, 08:45:14 AM
Another way is to make a cant. Centering the pith then cut your 4 qrt. Then saw from top down flipping the qrt. (Not end for end) Until it gets 2x4 size.

If this will work it seems like the simplest way, and cutting off the top sounds great. my little portable saw rolls on wheels so you always want to take off the top. I'm going to give this a shot just to try quartersawing something.

qbilder

Quote from: Ianab on December 19, 2013, 02:16:19 PM
Quote from: schmism on December 19, 2013, 11:19:39 AM


it would seem that if you used the bottom half type.  sawed into 8ths then put several 8ths on the mill at a time and just sawed down to the deck would be faster with less log manupulations

Possibly, but then you have to clamp the log @ 45°, and edge both sides of each board. Either way, Q-sawing on a band mill does take more messing about, and usually has a slightly lower yield.

The alternating pattern maybe creates less waste?

Ian

It does create more waste. It's easier & faster, though. Leaves a 45* angle on the straight edge of the board, and bark on the other edge. The top method at least gives one square straight edge.   
God bless our troops

Qweaver


look at the drawing that I recently post on my "Quarter sawing on the WPF.  I'm finding QS is very easy on the swinger.  Very little loss also.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Dave Shepard

If I'm quartersawing, I usually have a big log. I will make a large cant then cut it into quarters and push three of them onto the loading arms. I put a quarter on the mill with the pith at one of the top corners. I take a board or two then flip the pith over to the other top corner. I saw until the figure runs out then just saw to the bed.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

beenthere

QuoteI saw until the figure runs out then

The figure??  ...  meaning the rays?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Dave Shepard

Yes. I was thinking about the sycamore, which was the last quarter sawing I did. My quarters were pretty waney, I just squared up the cant enough to make sure the quarters would sit on the mill. Once you get down to about a 6"x6" cant, you are pretty much done making decent boards anyway, considering the wane.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

schmism

Quote from: bedway on December 19, 2013, 12:33:15 PM
1/2s, 1/4s, 1/8s, That one lost me :o



if you saw the quarters,  then set the quarters on a 45 jig (or something)  then sawed the green line  you split the log into 8ths.  then put 2 8ths (or more) "green line side" down and saw to the deck.
039 Stihl 010AV  NH TC33D FEL, with toys

Sixacresand

Quote from: dboyt on December 19, 2013, 08:30:30 AM
The easiest I have found involves cutting the log into quarters, then cutting off the bottom, using the sawmill like a band resaw.  After each cut, rotate the log 90 degrees, and make the next cut off the bottom.
What few I have ever done on the LT10 was like this.  Flipping ene to end would definitely be too much work. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

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