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Suugestions for a (smaller) saw for my wife?

Started by JimNAZ, July 13, 2014, 01:06:15 PM

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JimNAZ

Hello,

I currently have a Husqvarna 450 Rancher. I am new to chainsaws and using them but am getting the hang of this one and really like it. I showed my wife how to use it and she actually did some cutting. I guess she liked it because she said she had a blast. Unfortunately it is too heavy for her and she cannot hold for long periods of time.
Any suggestions on a smaller lighter saw she could use to trim branches or cut up some firewood? All we have on our land is Juniper trees. Most of the trunks and/or limbs are less than 16", or at least what my wife would be cutting. We are off grid so it needs to be gas or chargeable.

Thoughts?

Thanks
Jim

goose63

take the wife to the dealer have her hold a few saws till she finds the right one 8)
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

ozark timber

stihl ms180, 14 " bar.   I have 4 stihl saws, and this is the smallest, but I use it ALOT more than I thought it would.  Very light and I cut a lot of wood in the 6-14" range with it.

sprucebunny

And if you have a little more money to spend; the Stihl MS192
It is a hair lighter than the MS180, has more power, and a real oil pump.
It takes an extra step to get started but I think it's more dependable.

I wish I'd bought this saw first instead of 3 MS180s over 10 years.
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

BlueRidgeMark

I'm not a Husky man.  I'm not a Stihl man.  I'm a "quality tool that gets the job done" man.  Both are excellent, and I frankly don't have a high opinion of fan-boys.   Between the two, really, the choice comes down to dealer support.

That said, I have a Husky 435 that has really surprised me with what it can do.  For such a small saw, it's a beast.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't buy a consumer grade saw because I cut a lot of wood, but this thing was on a pallet at Lowes with water damaged packaging, and I walked out with a steal of a deal.  I needed a baby saw for small limbing and just-in-case.

It's gotten a real workout recently, as in the middle of taking down more than a dozen mature trees (most of them oaks), I stupidly fried my big saw, a Husky 576XP.  Had to finish with the baby saw, because I had some time constraints.  I cut down, limbed and partially bucked several oaks ranging from 11" at the stump to 28" at the stump.

Then I girdled all the stumps (to kill them quickly) and made a half dozen or more plunge cuts in each one to help them dry out quickly. (I plan to burn them out.)

That's a lot of cutting for a baby saw!

It's light and handy, too.    I'd say it's one you should look at.

But like Goose said, take her to the dealer (more than one!) and have her try a few.  She's got to be comfortable with it.

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

weimedog

Two points... Husqvarna 435 vs. 440e. The 440e has a spring assisted pull starter. The 435 does not and has a fair amount of compression therefore is harder to start than the 440e for a person not used to or has physical issues making yanking on a pull start an issue. The Husqvarna 543 is a better saw and starts easier than both. My pick for my wife is a Husqvarna 543 for her small saw and 2258 or 555 for large saw. Both are pro level construction vs. the competition at similar prices.. Both start easily, the 543 is amazingly easy to start.

A few video's, two I did with Spike60, on that subject. One will annoy some of you.. :)

Spike60 & 1 Discuss 40cc options & why they (40cc saws) exist.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI8sLNorR_M

Can skip to Minute 7.20 safety discussion & minute 12.20 is where the conversation get specific relative to my wife....and saws.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-sId3mZHQI

AND 50 cc saws...  with a "cameo" appearance by a Husqvarna 543 & a bunch of cookies & red neck dynamometer time at the end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SboYboe01A
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

North River Energy

I like the 192t for pruning, light limbing and barroom brawling, but would not want to buck firewood of any size with it. It's very light, and the rear handle version might work well for your/her application.

CTYank

For a light, nimble and powerful 40 cc saw, take a look at the Dolmar 421. Test one and one of the "homeowner" Stihls, and it's no contest. That Dolmar is that good, or the others are just mediocre.

Yes, the Husqy 435 is a good one, too. Great buys on VMInnovations dot com, prices include delivery.

Except for discontinuance, the RedMax GZ4000 or GZ4500 would be on the same short list.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

Oliver1655

A Jonsered CS2139 or a Husqvarna 338xpt (same basic saw) 7.7 lbs, 39cc, easy to start.  Has a purge bulb to evacuate air from the fuel lines.  Put the choke on, pull 2-3 times & as it coughs squeeze the trigger, the choke release as the saw roars! If not quick enough with the trigger squeeze, it will start up on the next pull.

Uses 3/8" .050 picco=low pro chain. 
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

shinnlinger

Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

JimNAZ

Thank you for all the suggestions and feedback. I do not have a lot of options for brick store buying. Lowes, Home Depot and Ace are about all I have within an hour drive.
I understand that taking my wife and having her hold them makes a difference. However still knowing the good ones from the not so good helps.

Thanks again!

Jim

joe_indi

Jim,

I dont know if its available in your area, the Makita DCS232T  might be the ideal saw for her. It is the lightest engined chainsaw that I know of. Small engine of about 25cc or less, 10" bar running a narrow chain. Very easy to start.


luvmexfood

I have a Stihl 170 in addition to my Stihl 029. Don't like the fact that it doesn't have a side adjuster for the chain but with a sharp chain and my 16" bar it cuts pretty darn good. Love to cut smaller limbs, wood etc. with it. And on occasion I have gotten my bigger saw in a bind and have cut my way out of some pretty big oak with it.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

stumpjumper83

Some here have suggested top handle models.  While they are small and light weight, they are not for beginners.  They lack the leverage needed to control them in a kick back or similar situation.  They are really only for professionals when no other saw will do.  A lot of the top handle saws, and stihl's 200 especially are high performance machines, again not what a beginner needs. 

Also while your wife is small, and doesn't need to be lugging around a 14 pound power head, you shouldn't be looking at the ultra tiny, feather weight saws either.  You want a saw with moderate weight to it as they are more stable. 

I think you should look somewhere in the stihl sizes from a 180 - 250.  I think I would keep the bar short for starter at least.  Then later if necessary you can go to a longer bar. 

One thing I always remember when I'm running saw is that everyone I know that runs saw for a living has scars from them, some rather severe.  The are a tool that demands the utmost respect.

joe_indi

Quote from: luvmexfood on July 16, 2014, 02:57:23 PM
I have a Stihl 170 in addition to my Stihl 029. Don't like the fact that it doesn't have a side adjuster for the chain.........

A side chain adjuster kit for the 230/250  Part No. 1123 007 1000  can be fitted on the 170 or 180.


HolmenTree

Quote from: stumpjumper83 on July 16, 2014, 03:15:25 PM
Some here have suggested top handle models.  While they are small and light weight, they are not for beginners.  They lack the leverage needed to control them in a kick back or similar situation.  They are really only for professionals when no other saw will do.  A lot of the top handle saws, and stihl's 200 especially are high performance machines, again not what a beginner needs. 
As long as you run the 3/8" extended pitch LoPro chain what these saws come with you won't have to worry about kickback. These chains are as kick back free as chains come with their profile design. That's one of the reasons why they were called consumer chains when introduced back in the mid '70s.

Now put a 1/4" or .325 chain on that saw if you can find the drive sprocket and sprocket nose bar then you will have potential for serious kickback.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

luvmexfood

Quote from: joe_indi on July 16, 2014, 11:25:18 PM
Quote from: luvmexfood on July 16, 2014, 02:57:23 PM
I have a Stihl 170 in addition to my Stihl 029. Don't like the fact that it doesn't have a side adjuster for the chain.........

A side chain adjuster kit for the 230/250  Part No. 1123 007 1000  can be fitted on the 170 or 180.



8) Thanks. I will look for one next time I go by the Stihl Dealer.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

Oliver1655

Any saw has the potential for kickback, the key is training the beginners to respect their saws. 

I grew up with top handle saws & they are my preference.  The ergonomics & compactness work well for me.

As Willard pointed out the 3/8 lp/picco chain such as the PS3 is a great chain for beginners. 

I myself prefer PS chain but then I do a lot of bore cutting.
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

7sleeper

Quote from: joe_indi on July 16, 2014, 11:25:18 PM
Quote from: luvmexfood on July 16, 2014, 02:57:23 PM
I have a Stihl 170 in addition to my Stihl 029. Don't like the fact that it doesn't have a side adjuster for the chain.........

A side chain adjuster kit for the 230/250  Part No. 1123 007 1000  can be fitted on the 170 or 180.


I added it (>5 years ago) to mine and it is worth it im my eyes!

forgot to add what I think is a good saw for the wife.

Dolmar PS35, Husqvarna 435, Stihl 211, Echo 400, Hitachi CS40EK=Tanaka ECV3801(I love mine!), Oleo Mac 350 = Efco 3500 (I have one)

I like my Dolmar 420 a lot! but I think it might be a tad to heavy, although it starts so easy!

7

hamish

The actual weight difference between a fueled, oiled, and wearing a comparable bar and chain of most 40-50cc saws is a mute point. 

Using ones body in a new way is the biggest factor, not the variance of one pound.

Every saw gets heavy at the end of the day.
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

ladylake


The actual weight of my CS400 Echo saws with a  16" bar and chain fueled and oiled is 13#, the lightest 50 cc saw with a 16" B@C ready to cut is over 15 #.  All weighed on a good balance scale .  That 2# is a huge difference.   A Echo CS400 off Ebay for around $200 new is one of the best buys out there but they need tuning and a muff modd to cut as fast as a lot of 50cc saws. Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

John Mc

While I have a lot of respect for the opinions of some who have suggested a top-handle saw for it's light weight, I'm with stumpjumper83 on this one.  I would not get my wife a top handle saw. The wider spacing of the handles on a rear handle saw gives better leverage and control. You might not get kickback, especially with some of the chain options mentioned, but why take the chance?  The smaller saw will likely get used for more of the limbing and brush removal. If the odd limb under pressure tries to send her saw for a ride, the wider spaced grips of the rear handle models will be an advantage.  Risk is not an "all or nothing" thing -- it's a matter of degree.  From the sound of it, your wife does not have much experience. Best to do what you can to lower the risk factors. Top handle saws can be a bit lighter, but I don't think that's the best choice in this case.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

Quote from: John Mc on July 20, 2014, 09:09:05 AM
While I have a lot of respect for the opinions of some who have suggested a top-handle saw for it's light weight, I'm with stumpjumper83 on this one.  I would not get my wife a top handle saw. The wider spacing of the handles on a rear handle saw gives better leverage and control. You might not get kickback, especially with some of the chain options mentioned, but why take the chance?  The smaller saw will likely get used for more of the limbing and brush removal. If the odd limb under pressure tries to send her saw for a ride, the wider spaced grips of the rear handle models will be an advantage.  Risk is not an "all or nothing" thing -- it's a matter of degree.  From the sound of it, your wife does not have much experience. Best to do what you can to lower the risk factors. Top handle saws can be a bit lighter, but I don't think that's the best choice in this case.
Well said John. Limbing and general ground work is a PITA for a top handle saw , their great for aerial work and yes most pros do one hand them up in the tree.
My suggestion for the ultimate lightest weight saw is the Husqvarna 339XP or Stihl MS200 or MS201 which are rear handled saws and also available in top handles with the "T" added in the model #.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

As Ladylake noted, a pound or two of extra weight can make a big difference over time, so it's good to find her something light weight. However, Hamish makes a good point about body mechanics. People new to chainsawing, or who are a bit tentative, tend to reach way out with the saw, to keep those dangerous moving parts well away from their body. This can tire you much more quickly, which is a safety problem in itself. In addition, you have much better control of the saw if you keep it in closer to your body.

Here's a couple of photos of a "women's only" Game Of Logging course sponsored by Vermont Coverts: Woodlands for Wildlife and taught by Northeast Woodland Training. One of the women summed up her experience level in a way that had many of the others nodding:  "my sole sole exposure to a chainsaw up to this point has been moving my husband's out of the way so I can get my car in the garage."

This particular class was customized from their normal course to reflect the fact that most of the participants had just about zero comfort level around chainsaws. After talk about saws chains, safety, and "what does what" on a chainsaw, the instructor had each participant cut a few cookies, just to get a feel for the saw, and see the difference between a "pulling chain" (cutting with the bottom of the bar) vs. a "pushing chain" (cutting with the top).

The first picture shows the instructor pointing out poor body mechanics of the brave soul who volunteered to go first. Note how far from the cut she is standing, and the twist and lean of her back as she reaches for the cut. Left arm and shoulder cranked at an odd angle in order to make the reach


 


Here she is after the instructor pointed out her stance to her. Note how much closer she is standing to the cut. Her back is straight; her left arm is in a much more natural position. She'll make the cut by bending at the legs, rather than bending her back. She even LOOKS more comfortable, and her comment afterward was that it felt much better, and more controlled and safer, despite her initial hesitation to stand close to the saw.


 

I'm not saying everything is perfect in this photo, but the difference to her and to those watching was dramatic.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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