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Genius hack for bearing removal + Speedi-Sleeve tricks

Started by pdxh20, July 06, 2017, 11:07:28 PM

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pdxh20

Rebuilt the first of four wheels on my '75 IH S-8 skidder and learned a LOT. Bearings and seals, planetaries, axle shaft etc. My skidder has Rockwell "PR-75" (not actually a Rockwell number but it crosses into their F-series and I eventually found multiple sources of parts, each less expensive and closer than the next...

Could not figure out how to get those tapered 6" diameter bearing outer races out of the bores, with nothing to grab for a puller. Called the great parts guys at Norcan in Spokane (http://www.norcan-parts.com/contact.htm) and they told me the old school trick: weld a bead on the inside bearing surface face. As it cools it shrinks. A couple of taps and it comes right out !

Other bit of education: there's a Speedi-sleeve for everything, but pay careful attention to the worn seal surface before installing them. Mine had old time original equipment "wear sleeves" but the spec seal size meant it was easier to leave the grooved wear ring in place and clean it up. Follow the directions and fill the grooves with JB-Weld and install the sleeve before it sets up for a "permanent" repair. Or you can use Loctite 518 which it easier to remove if you ever have to. Me, I hope after doing the diffs, planetaries, drive-lines, wheel bearings and seals all the way around and relatively light use in its future it should outlast me at 64. Doing those 500LB tire and hub assemblies alone in the shop made me glad I had a lot of tools.

To install a 5" Speedi-sleeve over the axle the installation tool (a shallow can) needs to have almost all of the top cut out to clear the axle spindle and drive the seal up against the shoulder. Good luck cutting that super-hard sheet metal can. How you gonna hold it ? Got a 4-3/4" hole saw ? Think it won't grab and do some damage ? Ha ! I managed to chuck it in the lathe from the inside and carefully "turn" out the top. It ripped off the chuck and wanged off the wall when it went through the final piece. Banged it back into shape on the anvil with a body shop hammer and flap wheeled the inside before installing the seal.

Drove it around, no leaks, no noises, no play. 3 to go, plus the fuel tank replacement and the Gearmatic 19 winch rebuild and re-install, the dash and gauges, some hose replacements, a filter re-location, lights and setting up the blade lugs for my loader bucket and forks before the final touch: a quick-release 45' bucket-boom for high work. All electric battery self contained, all the cable guys have 'em in no-outrigger vans.
'56 American crawler crane, Komatsu mini-ex, multiple Stihl saws, '75 IH S-8 cable skidder, 2000 F450 30' bucket truck, '95 Chev 4 x 4 2500 p/u, '05 Sprinter SHC 2500 van

kiko


coxy

my dad always said a welder, hammer and a hot wrench you can fix anything  ;D

Crusarius

Another great trick for bearing removal is hydraulic force.

1. you fill the cavity behind the bearing with grease. Any grease will do.
2. Make some type of a punch that fits the hole really close. if it is not perfect add layers of electrical tape till it is.
3. place punch in center of bearing.
4. smack with hammer.

If there was enough greases and tight enough seal on the punch the bearing pops right out. I did not believe it till I did it on a very stubborn input shaft bearing on a jeep.

62oliver

An old guy at the machine shop told me that welding on the old race trick, to add to that, smear a layer of grease on any nearby surface that you don't want to get welding spatter on. (seal surfaces etc.)
Husqvarna 266, Case 90xt, JD310C, TJ240E, 02 Duramax

mike_belben

Welding is also how you get valve seats out.  Flip head over and thump it, most will drop out on their own.
Praise The Lord

John Mc

The millwrights at the wire manufacturing plant where I used to work used that welding trick to get some big bearing races out. It worked like a charm.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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