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[SW_IOWA_SAWYER]

I agree with the clamping part. I built a temp sled that fits over the two bunks but getting a solid clamp on the log can be a problem. I am going to use a double screw setup that will drop into the log holder that already is on the mill. I may have to build a floating log dog to go along with the one that is on the mill already to get a rock solid lock on the log. I need to get some more logs I am running out  :'(

[burlman]

when I bought my Enercraft, the hydraulic package wasn't even invented yet. So I've always loaded my mill with the old reliable armstrong loader. I usually use some heavy hardwood  planks and a reliable cant hook. I always cut a block of wood that I slide up the plank as a brake incase the hook should slip. If it is a job involving big logs I bring my Lewis chain saw winch along and roll them up with it. As for chet's comment on turning big cants, I have a removable post and hand winch mounted on the center of the mill on the same side as the canting posts. On the end of the cable I installed a bill hook from a spare cant hook, I pull out the cable over the log/cant, around it and dog the bill into the top side of the log/cant. Then simply crank it up and around she goes, I turned a 30 in white oak 20ft. long with no strain on my back at all. good luck...burlman...

[joshua5]

thanks for the many replies!  the whole winch thing - especially if it's a crank winch (i.e. boat trailers) sounds good to me.  i like the fact that it's cheaper than the elec winches and you don't have to worry about running power cables.  used a winch several times with my dad when i was younger and went 4 wheeling.  we always put something on the line to weight it down while winching just in case the line snapped.  does anyone do this?  i've never seen a line snap.  never heard of anyone having a line snap.  still, paranoid.  getting cut in half could inhibit a good day of sawing.  interested in your thoughts...

[Mesquite Man]

I own a TimberKing 1220 and thoroughly love it.  I did not buy the transport package, however.  The manufacturer specifically requires that the transport package be removed before using the mill.  I believe that is the same with most small mills?

Anyway, here is how I load logs.  It is a LOT OF WORK:)



Sitruc

[solidwoods]

I have used a Kasco IIB for 10yr. I would recommend it for certain sawmill business models.  About 5" off the ground. Elec head up/dn and feed.
Have you seen     https://sawmill-exchange.com/for_sale.htm
They sell used mill equip.

Getting around a big log, trying to roll it up an incline is not good at all (to say the least).

JIM

[Tom]

8)

[biziedizie]

joshua5 putting weight on the line is the right thing to do. I've been 4 wheeling for many years and I've seen cables snap. Sure isn't a pretty sight to see the damage that can happen when they let go.
  Even seen one go that only had a jacket on the line and it stopped the cable dead in it's tracks.
  Alot of guys don't insect their cables and that's why they snap.

    Steve

[ohsoloco]

I'm glad we're on the topic of cables snapping, cuz I've been thinking about replacing the cable on my 9000lb Superwinch that I load logs with.  The current cable is the original, and on the end where the hook goes, it almost looks like a cast "clamp" that holds the cable at the end where the hook fastens.  When I replace the cable, what should I hold the "loop" in the cable with?  A cable clamp....if so, should I use more than one?  I don't know if the replacement cables that Superwinch sells have this loop in them, but I'd like to buy a cable locally since they're much cheaper.  

[biziedizie]

loco if I was you I wouldn't use a cable clamp but if you do put 3 on then wrap the cable back over the clamps and then clamp it again.
  If you buy new it will come with the loop.
  Did you ever figuire out the problems you were having with your sharpener?

   Steve

[Fla._Deadheader]

Whenever I have a cable with no loop on the end, I cut the end so it is not bent and spreadout, then CAREFULLY seperate the cable into two equal halves, untwisting it, for about 8-10 inches. Then you can cross the ends and start to retwist it to make it "lay" back together. Be careful to not BEND the two parts, just lay them as they will flow. Once you get the loop completed, cut the center core, (wire or rope), and lay the ends evenly over the outside of the main cable. 1 clamp will then hold it better than a gob of clamps that always get in the way OR snag yer hide .

  This is really simple to do. If needed, I could give a "pitcher lesson". I have done from 1/8th to 5/8ths size. When I worked for the power company, we would slide a compression sleeve onto the cable first, and then "crimp" the sleeve over the tails for a loop eggzackly like factory! ;D ;D :D

[ohsoloco]

I think I need pitchers to 'splain it to me  ;)

[Tom]

That's how I used to make Shark fishing leaders, Dead Header.  After I over-layed the upper part of the loop, I would wrap it in 3-5 layers of masking tape.  Once Masking tape gets wet it doesn't come loose. It makes a smoothe covering. My leaders would last for  years.  I used 3/16 and was lucky to get a spoiled reel of SS BT cable while lin the Navy. Still have a little around here somewhere. :D

[Mark M]

I posted a few pictures of the log loader I made for my Norwood saw. I can also mount my Lewis Wench to this arm since it is made of 2" reciever tubing. I'll post a picture of this later.

The big pictures are  Here