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Drying Dimensional Milled Lumber vs Timbers

Started by Drivadesl, February 13, 2017, 01:30:18 PM

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Drivadesl

So I am getting ready to order an LT-15 for personal use, with plans to mill lumber for a utility shed, a pole barn and a sawmill shed.  Timber available is mostly hemlock, though there are varying hardwood, and some pine.  I would likely start with the utility shed, since the other two are much more ambitious, so this will use mostly 1X, and 2X dimensional lumber, which I plan on stickering and drying. I don't have a drying shed yet, and in the past have used a tarp to keep milled oak dry after stickering.

My question is how long should I expect to wait for stickered hemlock to dry before its usable. Is hemlock suitable for dimensional lumber, or should I find something else.

Second question pertains to the barn and shed.  I understand that timber frame structures can be raised without much drying time after finishing.  Can the timber for the saw mill shed (8X8 the largest) be raised as well after milling or must they be dried.  This is not going to be built using timber framing techniques, more like standard pole barn joinery.

Sorry if these questions have been asked before, but I'm a bit of a newb, and looking to learn more.  Thanks.

Darrel

As far as hemlock is concerned, you should have no problem using it directly off the mill for construction of a utility shed. Of course, if you don't plan to use it immediately after sawing, sticker stack it until ready to be used.

And by the way, welcome and good luck with the new mill!
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Drivadesl

Thanks Darrel. That's good to know about the hemlock, I had the impression that the dimensional pieces might twist or warp if not fully dried before using.

Looking forward to getting started, I'm going to begin with marking my trees for felling.  Since I dont have the mill yet, Is it better to wait to bring them down or can I cut and stack them now for milling them in a couple of months?

Darrel

Once you get the lumber nailed down, it tends to behave pretty well. I agree, I'd leave the trees standing until ready to mill.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Drivadesl

Will logs cut down in the winter months, dry faster than those cut down in spring?  Does it even matter?

Magicman

Trees felled during dry weather have less moisture in them than trees felled after/during a rain.  Trees in swampy area have more moisture than trees growing on a ridgetop.

I have felled Red Oak trees after a rain and water would literally run out of the stem.  The ground would be wet.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

gww

My last project was a machine shed and I cut some of my 6x6s that I used and put them in concreete the same day.  I cut some of the 2x6 for the rafters the same day they were put up.  I also used all kinds of wood, hickory sycomore, oak and who knows what else.  So far so good.  The big thing if you ask me is to be building something that does not have a covering on the outside of the framing and inside the framing.  If you built something and put siding on it.  You would not want to also put inside walls paneling or such untill it had sit for a year or so.  You would not want to close it up untill dried a bit. 

So far the sheds and stuff I built seems to be holding up.
Good luck
gww

Drivadesl

Thanks for sharing your experiences guys! I've got a lot of thinking to do, still trying to figure out where best to place the mill.  Once I work that out, I'll likely get moving on the mill shed first since I want to get it under cover as soon as possible. So got lots more planning to do, and more to learn. Thanks again!

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

When putting in poles or posts, like for a pole shed or long posts for a deck support, it is usually best to build a concrete pier that has a top above ground.  The top can have several bolts to secure the bottom of the wood post.  Hardware is plentiful for this at the lumber yards and stores.  In this way, the wood is not subject to a high risk of decay or insects.  This is therefore better than a hole, maybe with concrete, into which the butt end of the pole is inserted.  If we must put the end in the ground, the treatment chemicals are at a stronger concentrate and the label will indicate "ground contact."  Even then, in any geographic areas, decay risk is higher than when using a pier.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Drivadesl

Thanks Gene, I've researched and read a bit on pole barn construction, and agree with your recommendations for using concrete piers over burying posts in ground. Sure the latter can be done but for me It seems minimizing ground contact is going to result in a longer lasting foundation overall.

My challenge is to engineer a laminated beam that can span the 20'+ opening and support the roof to allow me to load logs onto the mill. Luckily the FF has given me a few different ideas on this and I expect to have this worked out before I break ground.

plantman

I just came across this info which might help you stabilize and protect green lumber so that it doesn't shrink, crack, warp or get eaten by insects and mold.
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?186402-Ethylene-glycol-(auto-antifreeze)-treated-wood-safey

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