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How to attach lean to

Started by stanwelch, February 25, 2018, 01:34:40 PM

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stanwelch

I would like to add a 12 x 32 lean to on each side of my timber frame saw shed. The existing build has a 5/12 pitch roof and I was thinking a 2/12 pitch for the add on. I'm looking for ideas on how attach the lean to onto the shed. 
Thanks for your help

Stan
Woodworker, Woodmizer LT15, Stihl 026, MS261CM and 460 chainsaws, John Deere 5410 Tractor 540 Loader,Forks & Grapple, Econoline 6 ton tilt bed trailer

Jim_Rogers

Are you going on the eave wall side or the gable end?

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stanwelch

Woodworker, Woodmizer LT15, Stihl 026, MS261CM and 460 chainsaws, John Deere 5410 Tractor 540 Loader,Forks & Grapple, Econoline 6 ton tilt bed trailer

stanwelch

I was thinking to put four 8 x 8 posts on sonotube cement footers like I did for the building and a 8 x 10 or 8 x 8 plate to tie the posts along the 32 foot side. I would tie the posts to the frame with an 8 x 8 tie with mortise and tenon about 2 feet below the existing main building tie or maybe lag a 2 x 8 to each side of the posts. 
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Brad_bb

Pour proper footings for the outer posts.  Assuming you're not enclosing this and don't want to disassemble your current roof...cut mortises in your existing frame for the tie beams of the sheds if you're using ties.  Do the same for your principal rafters(use purlins for the shed roof on the principal rafters) and if there isn't enough room for the joinery, cut a shoulder in the post and screw your rafters in with structural timber screws like Wurth or similar.  That's my thought.
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JRWoodchuck

If you get a significant snow load you'll want to make sure the drop from the 5/12 is too far unless you build it real stout.
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Hilltop366

If it is just more space you need and there is room on the property i'm thinking it would be easier to add on to the gable end(s), a matter of making more bents like you have and continuing the metal roof.

Hilltop366

Sorry, that didn't answer your question.

tburch

I can't tell for certain, but it doesn't seem like you have enough room on your posts for a new mortise between the top plate and the existing tie beam mortise, nor between the same mortise and the brace below it.  

Perhaps a butt joint with metal T plates?  Not purist, but it would get the job done.
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tburch

You didn't specify how much lower you wanted to go below the existing edge of your roof either.

(Well, you did say 2' below... but I can't tell where that would hit) 
Peterson 10" WPF with slabber. Cooks AC36 Diesel.
'94 Ford 4830 Diesel 2WD & FEL.  Norse 450 skid winch.  Logrite fetching arch.  Fransgard Forestry Grapple.

firefighter ontheside

If it were me I would probably hang rafters off of the beam, bringing  the rafters up just under the overhang of the original roof.  As someone suggested, you have to be a bit concerned with snow load on a 2/12 pitch in Michigan.  Consider rafters on 16" centers.
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stanwelch

Thanks for the replies everyone. I have been gone from Michigan for a couple of months but expect to be back in a couple weeks. I will get a better idea what is possible/practical after taking measurements. It would be easier to add on with another bent or two but I would like more shade, weather protection and concrete on the south side of the existing building.  Also I have some equipment I would like to get under cover and the north side would work best.
I guess I'm getting stir crazy hanging out in the South Carolina sunshine. More later
Woodworker, Woodmizer LT15, Stihl 026, MS261CM and 460 chainsaws, John Deere 5410 Tractor 540 Loader,Forks & Grapple, Econoline 6 ton tilt bed trailer

Don P

If you attach to the existing beam check to see that it can handle the load. Another option I haven't seen mentioned yet might be to let a corbel in to the post to set a beam on.

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