iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

My chainsaw not ripping in straight line.

Started by alsayyed, March 04, 2006, 11:20:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

alsayyed


Yesterday I have decided to do some milling so I took my Stihl 650 chainsaw and went. I put my Alaskan log mill  iii on the chainsaw and started ripping, but I could not do any ripping only 8 inch. I was pushing the chainsaw but not going through I kept pushing very hard I have discovered that the chainsaw is not going in straight line I cut around 8 inch and stopped the line I cult is not straight I started with 2 inch then at the end of the line become 2 ¼ inch, so I stopped the machine and started what was wrong?. So please share your opinion in solving this diorama. I think is problem with bar, because the chain is a new just purchased recently.
The question has anybody run into this problem before.







beenthere

Sure appears that the chain is NOT cutting wood. Are the teeth sharp? A picture of the chips produced when cutting and of the chain teeth would help. The clue is you were pushing very hard. That doesn't sound right. Is the chain on correct?
Sorry to hear that your sawing projects are not going well, and we'd sure like to help you solve any problems.
Need pictures, please.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

dredgeslavedave

There are 3 things I can think of. First your rails on your bar have spread, or are worn enough to create slop in the chain. Second is the gauge of your chain is wrong for the bar. using a 50 gauge chain in a 63 gage bar can cause this. And last your teeth are filed longer on one side than the other. Hope this helps, Dave.
3 Alaskan's and a Grandburg mini mill. The newest addition to the family, Peterson WPF 8 inch with electric raising winch

kderby

Alsayyed, the note from dredgeslavedave is superb.  The simplest and most likely issue is the sharpening of the chainsaw teeth.  Try a different chain and see if the problem changes.  On the chain make sure the length of the teeth is the same for the left and right sides.  This can be set by properly grinding on a sharpener with a backstop that hold a uniform depth on each tooth.  It is maintained by equally sharpening the chain example: six file strokes per tooth. 

I find it easy to improperly sharpen one side.  I have to be attentive or my saw will begin to cut in a circle.  That is harder on the chain, bar and me. ::) 

Any one willing to be milling in Quatar has my support and respect.  Good luck! 8) 8)

woodmills1

yes daves advice is right on, one of those should be your problem.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

dredgeslavedave

One other thing that it could be. This happened to me, the bar got over heated. This caused the rail to slightly curl. The effect was as you described. The bar would not cut without a lot of pressure on it. I was sawing up a log and the chain became dull. I thought I could get one more pass out of the chain. It took forever to complete the next pass. When I finished the cut I put a sharp chain on, started my next cut and the saw would hardly cut. It was all I could do to finish the cut. I took off the chain to check it, it was sharp. It was then that I noticed that I had curled the edge of my bar from all the heat. I filed the edge back down and the saw cut fine again. Hope this helps, Dave.
3 Alaskan's and a Grandburg mini mill. The newest addition to the family, Peterson WPF 8 inch with electric raising winch

woodmills1

With lots of use the bar will develop a burr along the edge where the chain rides.  I take a flat file and knock the bur off when I clean the bar groove.  You can feel the burr with you finger with the chain off.  The burr can get big enough to keep the bar from fitting in the kerf.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Kevin

Appears to me your first cut that you're using for a guide is crooked.



The bar and mill are straight and the cant has a curve on top which is the guide for the mill.
It looks like it might be at least a bar thickness from being straight.
The first cut is critical.


rebocardo

Going by your first picture, your set up of the mill is wrong. The left hand side looks much thicker  then the right hand side of the kerf, the cut is not square. I would hazard a guess that your first cut was way off and it  compounded from there.

Stand a round up and try splitting it with your ripping chain and see how well it cuts.

Tom

Alsayyed,

I am not a chainsaw sawyer, but I use a chainsaw to split logs and trim saw logs for my mill.  While I am not an expert, I have experienced some of the problem that your are experiencing now.

I agree with others that your horizontal cuts don't seem to be parallel.  That would indicate that your setup was inaccurate.

The ripping problem where the chain began to dive down can be caused by a chain whose cutter have been damaged.  It also can be caused if the groove in the bar is worn and is too open.  It won't control the chain.

It can also happen if you, as the operator, are too heavy-handed and are trying to force the saw through the wood.  You have enough muscle to make the saw roll over.  I've experienced it when cross cutting.  Usually it is brought about by trying to make a dull chain cut and too much uneven pressure is applied to the handles.

It is just my opinion from following your threads, but it looks like you tend to man-handle the saw.  It isn't an accusation, just an observation.  Things are happening to your saw that indicate that you aren't letting it do the work.  It looks like you force it to do your bidding.  Perhaps you will have better luck if you slow down, don't expect so much from the tool and let it do its job at its own pace.

I also respectfully ask you to learn to use the forum photo galleries for your picture too.  We require others to use it and not use off-site photo storage companies.  There is a reason.  This thread could end up one day with no pictures if --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!-- goes out of business or your account is canceled.   If you put them on the Forum Gallery, They will remain attached to this thread forever.   

It is also risky to use off site links for pictures when you don't know what someone else might put in the place of the picture.  It would be embarrassing to find that someone had replaced one of your pictures or one of the links with pornography or advertisements.

Thank you for trying to be a good member.  I know it is hard when English isn't your first language.  We really do appreciate your efforts and your involvement and hope that your fellow members can be of some help.

solodan

check the u-bolts and coupling nuts on your Alaskan. If one of them strips (which I have found quite common) it can let the rails slide out of alignment very slightly and cause a whole lot to go wrong. even with the worst shape chain and bar, I have been able to finish up a straight cut. even with dull or mis sharpened cutters it may go slow, real slow, but the Alaskan Mill should be able to keep the cut straight.

alsayyed

I thank every body who gave some help. Thank you Tom for your long reply to my problem. First let me tell you that I had tried many times to post some images on the forum but was not successful, every time I try to load some images it take while then suddenly I get this message  0 images. Secondly I am proud of my self because I am learing to mill log using chain saw by my self and with the help of this forum. No body in the country and in the neighboring countries uses this type of method. Well again I am proud of my self and proud of other people on the forum that they try to help everybody, this is why I like woodworking because every time you ask for help you find some people  raising thiee hands and share there experiences.

I will be receiving ripping chain within few days and I am going to use that ripping chain. Right know I am using cross cutting chain regular type purchased from UK.
I will try and show you the result.
A gain thanks and blessed wishing to everyone.


Snag

I agree with the above postings.  Looks like the wood in that area may have been some tough cutting and a little too much pressure was asserted.  The other thing I would check is to see if the bar is bent.  From the looks of the cut, this may be the problem. 

Tom

Alsayyed,

The reason for the message of 0 images is because a requirement for upload was not met.  To post on the forum requires "Optimization".  The Pictures must be no greater than 400 pixels wide and 400 pixels tall.  They should also be less than 30kb in density.

There is a good tutorial in Behind the Forum.  It is not difficult to do, it just takes being successful one time.  It's kind fo like riding a bicycle.  Once successful, always successful.

Yes, you have reason to be proud of yourself.  It is difficult to learn a task when you can't see it performed.

Thank You Sponsors!