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Yellow pine flooring

Started by Mathias, November 29, 2004, 06:48:28 PM

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Mathias

Hello everyone. I've been lurking around here for a few weeks and finally decided to join in.
  I'd like to get your expert advices and opinions on how I should go about making some wood flooring out of 3 yellow pine trees that range from 24-30" in dia. that haven't been dropped yet. I plan on building a solar kiln to dry them in first.
  I am new to this whole experience of cutting and drying. I am trying to find out all I can before I get started so I don't turn it all into firewood.
  Should it be quarter sawn? Pine is much more stable than hardwoods so I don't know if it really needs to be.
  Any input you have is greatly appreciated.
Hand plane collector

Tom

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Mathias. :)

If you plan to turn the trees into conventional flooring, 2 1/2" to 4" wide, then you should take every opportunity to produce vertical grain.  The floor will be more stable in vertical aligment and will wear better.  The tendency for vertical grain boards is to Crook.  That means that the boards will move horizontally.  They can be held in line because each board holds the other.

You can use both the sapwood and the heartwood, but the heartwood is most desired.  Try, if you can, to produce as much vertical grain from the heartwood as you can.

Vertical grain boards expose the most late-wood to the wear surface too.  The late wood is denser and wears better than the early wood.

If you are looking for a floor made with wide boards, then you will be flat-sawing most of the boards.  Flat sawed boards will cup.  Flat sawed boards also expose more early wood to the wear surface and will not wear as well.  Today's harder finishes make this not so critical.  You will have to devise a way to minimize the cupping.  One floor I sawed like this was laid on an subfloor of 3/4 inch plywood.  It was glued down and surface nailed.  It has remained flat.

You should also devise a means of straight-line sawing the boards to get them to fit together with minimal gaps. This is done after they are dry and will require that you build a jig.  table saws or circular saws, either one, can be used for this purpose.  The smaller boards may be tongue and grooved.  That will require even more machining but will produce a more conventional, modern floor.

There are threads throughout the forum on flooring.  One of the threads is rather recent.  

Mathias

Thanks Tom. Your input is very useful and very appreciated – quarter sawn it will be.

Now I'm working on the solar kiln design. Is plexiglass a good solar collector material or is something else a better choice? It is pretty pricey.
Hand plane collector

Jeff

Cookssaw has an article in the front of thier catalog this month where Tim talks about making flooring without kiln drying. I'll shoot him a note and see if he can reply to this.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Timbo

We are out of the Catalog. If you will email me at Tim@cookssaw.com I will email you a copy. It will tell you how to use your lumber without tongue and grooving.

Mathias

Thanks Tim and Jeff. I appreciate your help.

 Now I have another option to consider.
Hand plane collector

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