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Diesel Engine Stands

Started by sandersen, September 04, 2015, 02:21:53 PM

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sandersen

I'm getting ready to pull and rebuild my 1966 353 Detroit and I'm wondering if an engine stand is the way to go.  One that rotates and allows access to the bottom where the crank and bearing are...or will a crude support fabbed together suffice, and then muscle the block around by hand. I can't purchase an expensive diesel stand, so I'm wondering what the guys have done who have been through this before.  I'd appreciate your opinions.  Thanks.   
"Make every step count."

treeslayer2003

i have a 353 on a stand right now. i got the harbor freight 2000lb stand but i made a plate to bolt to the side of the block. cannot turn it with out the help of a hoist.

Puffergas

I also used a HF engine stand with some kind of home made adapter bolted to the side. If need be I could scan an old photo.
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

Puffergas

I had an old photo in my gallery.

Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

treeslayer2003

puffer did you do any thing to the blower on yours?

bushmechanic

An engine stand is nice but not really necessary. I have an old wooden table that I do smaller diesels on and a gantry for lifting. I'll try and post a pic of it tomorrow and there's a 353 being rebuilt on it right now. ;) 

Puffergas

Quote from: treeslayer2003 on September 04, 2015, 06:36:33 PM
puffer did you do any thing to the blower on yours?

One engine was rusted/locked and water got into the blower and frooze so the loobs/rotors were cracked. Founds used ones.

Mainly just tear down, clean and replaced seals with some kind of seal that gets assembled dry so when it starts up for the first time it leaves some seal material on the shaft. They said it wouldn't leak.

Really just followed the manual.
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

sandersen

Thanks for the input guys...the 2000lb. HF stand at $134.00 right now seems hard to beat.  With a little modifying and reinforcing it seems like the way to go. 
"Make every step count."

Puffergas

Quote from: sandersen on September 05, 2015, 10:54:11 AM
Thanks for the input guys...the 2000lb. HF stand at $134.00 right now seems hard to beat.  With a little modifying and reinforcing it seems like the way to go.

It's been a long long time ago but I think it was a bit of a chore to rotate the engine and lock it in place because of the weight of the engine and I might have had it fastened off center. It was nice to work on though.
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

treeslayer2003

Quote from: Puffergas on September 05, 2015, 11:34:30 AM
Quote from: sandersen on September 05, 2015, 10:54:11 AM
Thanks for the input guys...the 2000lb. HF stand at $134.00 right now seems hard to beat.  With a little modifying and reinforcing it seems like the way to go.

It's been a long long time ago but I think it was a bit of a chore to rotate the engine and lock it in place because of the weight of the engine and I might have had it fastened off center. It was nice to work on though.
yeah it winds up mounted low and to the rear. i use the hoist to rotate.

kiko

I am with bush mechanic on this one. I find an engine stand to be cumbersome and dangerous unless it was made for a diesel. (OTC) .  After the crank is installed, then the flywheel housing stand it up right on the FWH.  This makes esp easy when loading the liners, pistons and rods as an assembly.  It has been a while since I rebuilt a jimmy.  I would load the pistons into the bottom of the liners rather than use the detroit tool for piston installation.  There is a trick to to doing like that, but I had better luck doing that way.  Those bottom wiper rings are like glass.  Keep in mind these are only personal preferences.  Many ways to accomplish your goal.

sandersen

Thanks again...I've had second thoughts on the engine stand after looking at a whole bunch.  I like the idea of standing it up and moving it around with the crane and keeping it on a solid surface like a good stout work table, either wood or steel.  Maybe even a solid frame on wheels more like an engine cradle.   
"Make every step count."

bushmechanic

Sandersen here's my setup, nothing fancy but I find it works well. Please excuse the mess but I rarely have time to clean up.

  

    

sandersen

Thanks Bushmechanic...a picture is worth a thousand words as they say.  I like it cause it's nice and simple and safe.  That's how I'll go.  And that mess?  That's my kinda mess.  Much obliged.
"Make every step count."

Puffergas

Quote from: sandersen on September 05, 2015, 07:52:27 PM
Thanks Bushmechanic...a picture is worth a thousand words as they say.  I like it cause it's nice and simple and safe.  That's how I'll go.  And that mess?  That's my kinda mess.  Much obliged.

And you save $134....!  👍
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

Oliver05262

   Bushmechanic, would you mind posting some dimensions for that table of yours? I could guess some from the pictures, but actual measurements of what works might be easier. Would you change anything?
Oliver Durand
"You can't do wrong by doing good"
It's OK to cry.
I never did say goodby to my invisible friend.
"I woke up still not dead again today" Willy
Don't use force-get a bigger hammer.

treeslayer2003

if i hadn't had to pull the fwh, i would just set it on the welding table.

Puffergas

Clean sheet of plywood on the floor might not be too bad. Plus one of those adjustable rolling chairs to set on.

The more I think about it, I might repurpose my engine stand. It's a pain in the 😭 to bolt up.
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

bushmechanic

Hey Oliver05262 the dimensions are 32" wide by 48" long by 25" high. If I was to change it I would make it out of metal and have it on rollers.

Corley5

I always wanted a geared head engine stand  :) 8) :)  Maybe someday :)
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

North River Energy

If you have a good overhead hoist of some sort, you'll probably be fine tipping it on end on the bench.
On the other hand, if you think you might have more engine work in the future, you might want to build a solid stand. They really do come in handy.

I built this one for an overhaul of a Ford 460.

  

Most of the parts came from the local scrapyard, including the gear drive. The greatest cost came with the 7/8" bolts holding the bell housing brackets.

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