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a saw that will hold up when its pull started

Started by bad_boards, September 28, 2006, 02:32:41 PM

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bad_boards

need rec`d on a man sized saw that wont fall apart when one pullstarts it
do they ( anyone) still make a saw with metal guts in the pullstart?

help!!

SawTroll

I don't think that I quite understand the question - aren't all saws pull-started? ???
Information collector.

Murf

 :D

I think he means a pull start that is made with more than $0.50 worth of plastic that self destructs when someone with a little power behind the cord yanks on it.

I've had a rash of recoil starters grenade this year, mostly Hondas' but also on Husky.

Never had a Stihl do that, except the one that fell off the trailer at 55 mph.

Thanks fer checkin' the saw was in the truck Vern.  ::)
If you're going to break a law..... make sure it's Murphy's Law.

Urbicide

Hello.

I would look for a saw (or saws, these things are addictive) with a decompression release button. You push the button in, and it lowers the compression while you are pulling on the starter handle. As soon as the saw fires it closes the valve and away you go. It takes a lot of strain off of the starter and off of your arm.

How many C.C.'s are you looking for? I have a 359 and a 372XP Husqvarna saw and I have yet to tear up the starters or anything else on them. Pretty much all of your manufacturers have a whole line of saws ranging from cheapy home owner models to professional models. If you stick with the pro models you should have a saw that will hold up and last you a long time, providing you follow basic maintenence and watch your fuel mixtures.

All saws are not equal. Most of the cheap saws have a crankcase made out of a plastic material. The pro saws have a crankcase made out of magnesium. Which would you rather have?  You have to go by specific model, not necessarily by brand name.

Hope this helps.
Vince pull_smiley




beenthere

My 31 year old 041 Stihl has never had a starter issue. I don't have long arms so I don't end up pulling the cord out to the very end of its length, which may help.
My newer MS361 has only a couple years under its belt.

I drop start them (know I am not supposed to but...... ::)) and find the MS361 starts sooner if I don't push the decompression button in. Three pulls on choke when cold. When warm, usually one pull, sometimes two.  My old 041 ALWAYS starts on one pull at idle when warm. I like that saw best.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

bad_boards


Al_Smith

More than likely the saws in question are  newer Craftsman/Poulan,noted for disinagration of the starter mechainsms .

I've never had any problems with  the Stihls I own .The only problem ever on the Macs was a rewind spring on a 10 series,of course they are 30 plus years old.The older bigger stuff,over 40 years old,no problem other than an occasional rope replacement,which of course is understandable.

tcsmpsi

That's alright, beenthere, I drop start mine, too.   The only saw I ever had a pull-rope problem with was the old Poulan 66, but then, can't drop start that rascal.   :D  However, can drop the plate off and wrap a rope around it to start it (like before the self-recoil rope starters), keeping one's wits about them, of course.   

My Husky has a compression release, but I don't like/use it.   Never had a starting problem with it. 

It does make a difference in not pulling the starter to the 'end of its rope'. 
\\\"In the end, it is a moral question as to whether man applies what he has learned or not.\\\" - C. Jung

bad_boards

yup its a craFTSman, bought it cus my 2 o`l PL-4`s were in need of work and i couldnt do it or find anyone who would
i have now found a parts source for the o`l remmingtons!!!

the craftsman has a new spring in it now and it rewinds but now it wont "catch" the wee little feets onto the plastic hub thingie

so it dont turn over. errrr. frustratin cus i got some wood to cut up




rebocardo

The other thing to remember is different saws have different starting tehcniques. I broke the cord on my Stihl (okay - didnt read directions) trying to start it like I do the Husky 365. Husky 3120 starts different then the 365 too.

For most of the saws, giving the cord a yank to the end of its reach is a no-no and the manuals warn against it.


sawguy21

I used to drop start the big uns. Trouble is, I'm a southpaw and held the saw with my right while yanking with my left. Don't do that no more since the bar swung against my leg and the chain sliced my jeans (not wearing chaps in the shop). The keys in my pocket warded off damage to fleshy parts. 8)
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Ga_Boy

I run three Sthils'; 028-AV Super, 361 and a 460 Mag; they all start much the same way.   

Put the switch in the choke position, pull 3-4 times till it burbles, move the switch to the run position, pull 2-3 more times and it is running.

I only run the pro grade Sthils', they just start and run.....It has gotten to where I pick up my 460 for just about everything.....I love that saw.....



10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Al_Smith

You can  get by starting a small saw by dropping but it's not the safest way.It's really not the thing to even try on a large saw,too dangerious.

I've got a couple of big Macs that will snap the comp releases at times,before they start,this would prove real dangerious on a drop start.The only safe way to start a large saw is on the ground.

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