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cutting and drying pine

Started by xlogger, June 02, 2016, 06:16:52 AM

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xlogger

Well I'm heading out today to pickup a load of SYP. I've had my mill now for over 6 years and cut very little pine, mostly for others. Didn't figure it was any money in it, Now that I have my kiln the price makes me take another look at it. Most want 10-12" wide boards kiln dried. Any suggestion on cutting and drying it? I guess pine stays flat like my cedar just flat sawing it threw and threw. I'm picking out my logs today so I'll make sure the pith is center well. How long on average would you air dry it before heading in the kiln? How low % do most of you dry it to?  I have customers waiting now.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

WDH

I level the pith, then square the cant.  Then I pick the best face and saw halfway to the bed,  Flip 180 then saw to bed.  This maximizes width, and with pine, the wide boards are more in demand.  6 weeks of air drying will get you below 20% moisture.  Then you can load the kiln with up to 1000 bf and let her rip running the compressor wide open.  I set the DB at 120 and the wet bulb at 75 to insure that the compressor runs full out. 

Even with green pine, I use the same settings and dry it at max compressor run time but you can only put 400 bf of green pine in the L53.  Better to air dry it some to max out the kiln load.  I dry my pine to 7 - 8% moisture content.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

scsmith42

What Danny said, with the exception that if you plan to run it through a moulder stop drying when it gets to 12%.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

As over 50% of the SYP is treated, so this lumber is around 15% MC or a bit higher so that it does not absorb too much chemical in treating.  For untreated wood, as drying under 12% MC (or maybe 15% MC) makes the lumber shrink more, warp more, harder to nail, and more brittle, and as the MC in use for most pine is not under 10% MC, the most common final MC value is 15% MC or even a bit higher for construction lumber and 12% MC for 4/4 lumber (of which there is very little).

Compared to 15% MC, lumber that is 7% MC will have to be 2% thicker and wider when first sawn, due to shrinkage.  When you make 250 million BF a year, that is 5 million more BF from the same logs.

When drying SYP, I did a study years ago that showed each 1% MC drier meant 4% loss due to warp.

Note that other pines are also critical in size and machining problems when drying to avoid over-drying, but probably not as critical from warp.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

xlogger

To start with I'm going to cut my first load to 4/4, what I'm hearing from the couple that wants it says most will go for shelves and bookcases. I pickup 4  16ft logs that came out to around 740 bd ft on the Int scale. By cutting into 8 ft lengths I should get better than that. Going for the widest boards I can get. So Doc says not under 10% and Danny says 7-8%.
Danny, if I get to 10% and then cut the heat up to 150° for 24 hours, how much on 4/4 do you estimate it dropping after that?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

WDH

I am cutting 1" pine for indoor furniture use.  Sawn at 1 1/8" thick rough just like hardwood.  That is why I go below 10%.  Ricky, I would be OK with getting to 10%, then sterilizing the load for 24 hours to set the pitch, etc at 150 degrees.  This should take you below 10% final moisture content, and I am OK with the pine at 10% or a little lower.  I have had very good results drying 1 1/8" pine for furniture use. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Indeed, setting the pitch so the lumber does not exude sap on books, etc. will be very important.  I would prefer 48 hours at 150 F.

Note that wide pieces of SYP are prone to twist during drying and when the MC changes in use.  Shelves with even a small amount of twist can be an issue.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

WDH

OK.  I will lengthen the cycle on setting the pitch on SYP. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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