putting set into blades

[diesel pap]

about how many times can you sharpen band saw blades before you have to set the teeth

[Peter Drouin]

Maybe one time.

[diesel pap]

looks like i will have to build myself a setter. i bought a grinder off of ezboardwalk

[Brucer]

I was told by my WM dealer, 1 to 3 times between setting.

In practice I've found that a blade that's been cutting true without marking the wood is good for a couple of sharpenings between setting. If it's marking the wood or wandering even a little it needs to be set.

When I sharpen a blade I write on it with a black felt pen, indicating how many times it's been sharpened and how many sharpenings since it was last set.

When I finish sawing with a blade, I duplicate the numbers and also add a note about any issues with the blade.

[kelLOGg]

I set every time before I sharpen and I frequently find that the outer teeth have lost more set than the inner teeth. Anybody else seen this?

[bandmiller2]

New band you can get by with one or two sharpenings between setting.It varies some logs seem to take the set out early.I have a dial indicator gauge and check several teeth,if their good I just sharpen.The bands are springy and if the teeth have enough set they really don't change going through the two side setter only the lowset teeth get a bump.  Frank C.

[diesel pap]

so im guessing you set if needed before you sharpen. back in the late nineties i sent my blades to a guy to sharpen. they worked good after the first time but that was about it. he didnt set since he  didnt have a setter.

[sawmillhand]

Do you set then sharpen?  or do you sharpen then set?  which would be the correct way.

[Kansas]

Set, then sharpen.

[Happycamper]

I set then sharpen the blade like you would a hand saw. I use a "pineywoods" setter and it does a good job.
                                    Jim

[Chuck White]

I set the teeth, then sharpen.

I set everytime the blade needs sharpening!

[fat olde elf]

I always check the set before sharpening. Usually I go at least 2 sharpenings without setting unless I hit something. Years ago TOM told me to set and then sharpen. He was always right, put on your red t-shirt........ Say your prayers  FOE

[Tom the Sawyer]

I understand the importance of removing the burr off of the blade setting the teeth, if you sharpen first.   

For those who set, then sharpen, it is necessary to remove the burr or will it come off as soon as it enters the log?   

Thanks for your opinions,

[Brian_Rhoad]

I never remove the burr. By the time the blade needs sharpened the burr is gone. I have tried setting before and after sharpening and before is definitely better.

[Peter Drouin]

I always set then sharpen , the top of the tooth has to be square to the blade. And that doesn't happen if you sharpen then set. It just won't cut right.
Just my 2 cents.

[fat olde elf]

Peter D. is absolutely correct.  Squareness of the tooth is critical. Custom Sawyer has posted about this. Just check any table saw blade that is made for ripping. Teeth are square to the blade......Any burr left after sharpening is soon gone and not a factor. 

[Brucer]

I also set, then sharpen. The burrs come off as soon as the blade hits the log.

Further to Peter's comment, new blades (at least WM blades) are set after they are sharpened so they are not square to the blade. This doesn't seem to cause a problem when you use them straight out of the box. However, you must grind them down until the tops of the teeth are square to the blade across their entire width.

If you don't sharpen them this way, the lowest part of the tooth (on the outside) doesn't get sharpened. This means you have sharp teeth in the centre of the cut, but dull teeth on the top and bottom portions of the cut.

[customsawyer]

For what it is worth I sharpen and then set. I think it has a lot to do with how you are using your blades and what you are cutting. Just my 2 cents worth.

[woodmills1]

here is a trick I use that will work if you can plan your cutting and you cut both hard and soft species.  I buy wm 7 degree blades set for white pine, and use them twice with one sharpen.  If the universe is in alignment I can then use them twice with two sharpens in hardwood.  then they need serious set, except most of the time I hit metal in the oak.  I don't sell oak log that I think have metal as I won't get paid for them.  If a blade does2 pine jobs with no metal it doesn't owe me anything on the next oak job.


that said I set very little

[terrifictimbersllc]

I've turned it around and am now setting, then sharpening.  lets me skip the de-burring step.   I'm sure the burr is gone the instant the blade saws into the log.

[Chuck White]

I started setting then sharpening back during some PM's with Mr. Tom and Banjo Picker, They suggested I give it a try.  I did, and never looked back.

I've never noticed any interference with the burr still being there, so I see no reason to change back!

[Stephen1]

I was taught to sharpen then debur so you could then set. I find it a pain to debur and then set.
I like to set then debur.  I also hit a lot of hardware as I am willing to go into the city for single or a couple of logs.
I have been 2 sharpenings between sets. I notice less or more sawdust remain on the log. My thoughts are more sawdust left in the cut is to much set. am I right?
I will find resharpened blades that are not cutting right, due to metal hits, I believe, back to sharpen again.

[Peter Drouin]

I don;t think of burs at all. The thing with band mills if the blade is given you grief junk it, and get another one, I had one today that would leave lines on the wood , so I set it and sharpen it,[#2 time] I put on the mill and it did it again. I don't know what it hit. But I can tell you it will not work for me so I junked it.

[Tom the Sawyer]

Peter,

I've had those lines too, usually from a nail hit increasing the set of a tooth or teeth.  They start after a nail hit and get closer together after you hit another nail - I hit 10 in one pass last week (apparently the remnants of a tree stand ladder), made for a lot of scratches.

If you want to salvage that blade you'll need to down-set it.

[customsawyer]

I don't debur my blades. I zero out my setter with the burr on.