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Router sled...

Started by Hooterspfld, April 29, 2019, 10:24:00 PM

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Hooterspfld

Anybody built a router sled out of metal? Right now I'm looking at running some 30" oak slabs, and feel like builing a sled that can run on any stock 2" square for instance, would be nice. All the videos on youtube are wood construction, but it seems to me at least, that I could build someting smaller out of metal that would take up less space but work as well if not better. Any pictures of what you had would be great! 

Ljohnsaw

Here is my sled.  Angle iron, bed rails and sliding door wheels:


 

 

 

 

 
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Hooterspfld

I like the angle iron, lighter than square tube! Thanks for the ideas!

mddillon78

I have been considering making one out of angle iron or even aluminum extrusion.  I havent seen any videos out there, but if I make one out of metal I will share it in a YouTube video.  This is a very interesting topic for sure.  Thanks
Michael Dillon
Dillons Woodworks - New Hampshire
Custom Sawmilling and Woodworks
Dillonswoodworks
Dillonswoodworks - YouTube

Ljohnsaw

What you can't clearly see is the supports.  The cedar slab is sitting on saw horses with wedges to level the top.  The 10' angle iron side rails have some tube supporting them in two places along their mid-length with threaded rod at each end.  I adjusted the threaded rod to take out any sag on the ends.  What I really need is a big table to support the slab and the track all in one.  The garage floor would work but that would be really hard on my back!  The next time I do a slab, I think I might try using plastic milk crates  -  they are light, uniform in size and sure stack nice.  I would just need a bunch!

If I were to do it over, I think aluminum extrusions would work better - lighter but stiffer.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

DWyatt

Here's a recent topic in Drying and Processing where there was good discussion with a couple designs shared.

Router sled for surfacing slabs

I hope that works

Crusarius

I was just about to link to that thread. Thanks dwyatt. 

The linear bearings and 8020 worked great for me. When I was done with the router it left a smooth enough finish that I did not need to sand at all. 

I watch so many ppl go across the grain. I think going with the grain leaves a much smoother finish. it is definitely easier with my setup.

DWyatt

Quote from: Crusarius on April 30, 2019, 12:33:31 PM
I was just about to link to that thread. Thanks dwyatt.

The linear bearings and 8020 worked great for me. When I was done with the router it left a smooth enough finish that I did not need to sand at all.

I watch so many ppl go across the grain. I think going with the grain leaves a much smoother finish. it is definitely easier with my setup.
Yes I agree, I don't understand going across the grain. Going with the grain I was able to start sanding with the orbital and  120 rather than the 80 I had to use when I went across the grain. 

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: DWyatt on April 30, 2019, 03:40:28 PMI don't understand going across the grain

But the router bit is going in a circle so no matter what direction you go, you are getting a mix.   As you head off "with" the grain, it is cutting across the grain first then then along it on the edge.  If you go "across" the grain, it is cutting with it and then across on the edge.  What I found to be the most critical is that the cutting plane of the bit needs to be exactly parallel to your runners.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

richhiway

Woodmizer LT 40
New Holland 35 hp tractor
Stihl Chainsaws
Ford 340 Backhoe

Hilltop366

Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 30, 2019, 06:33:15 PM
Quote from: DWyatt on April 30, 2019, 03:40:28 PMI don't understand going across the grain

But the router bit is going in a circle so no matter what direction you go, you are getting a mix.   As you head off "with" the grain, it is cutting across the grain first then then along it on the edge.  If you go "across" the grain, it is cutting with it and then across on the edge.  What I found to be the most critical is that the cutting plane of the bit needs to be exactly parallel to your runners.
I'm thinking it depends on how much of the bit is in the cut, if there is only the outer part of the bit (25% ?) in the cut, going with the grain would give you a mostly with the grain cut.

Bill Gaiche


Crusarius

Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 30, 2019, 06:33:15 PM
Quote from: DWyatt on April 30, 2019, 03:40:28 PMI don't understand going across the grain

But the router bit is going in a circle so no matter what direction you go, you are getting a mix.   As you head off "with" the grain, it is cutting across the grain first then then along it on the edge.  If you go "across" the grain, it is cutting with it and then across on the edge.  What I found to be the most critical is that the cutting plane of the bit needs to be exactly parallel to your runners.
I agree 100%. I do not know why I got a better finish going with the grain. thats just what I observed. its also easier. I do not have to fight the router. But my slide moves on linear bearings one way and friction plate the other so going lengthwise works better for me anyhow.

D6c

Been thinking about building a router set up to flatten slabs ( something like 4' x 12') and I like the linear bearing with round shaft rails idea.
The biggest problem I see is with getting the rails perfectly straight and parallel.
With that length even fairly heavy rails get flexible.  There's "flat", and then there's "FLAT!".  Would need a solid base that doesn't get moved around or it will warp with the floor changes.....then shim the rails into alignment, possibly with the use of a precision level or an instrument.
Then once it's all set up you can't move it or you lose all alignment.
I'm sure  that's over thinking it a bit.... blame the machinist in me.

Crusarius

D6c I have the same issues :) I like precision. I am also part machinist. if your that worried about it I would build a heavy steel frame with adjustable feet to mount everything to. Make sure you use supported linear bearings and you will not have any issues with flex. The biggest problem I had is the max length supported linear bearing I could find for reasonable money was 1500mm. which is only 59". The good news is they butt together relatively well and the bearing bridges the gap pretty smoothly. If you are willing to spend more money than I was then you can get longer. But I am to cheap / broke to do that. especially the only reason I had the linear bearing was it was supposed to go on my mill for the uprights. I ended up using cam followers instead (thanks MM).

DWyatt

Quote from: Hilltop366 on April 30, 2019, 07:24:37 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 30, 2019, 06:33:15 PM
Quote from: DWyatt on April 30, 2019, 03:40:28 PMI don't understand going across the grain

But the router bit is going in a circle so no matter what direction you go, you are getting a mix.   As you head off "with" the grain, it is cutting across the grain first then then along it on the edge.  If you go "across" the grain, it is cutting with it and then across on the edge.  What I found to be the most critical is that the cutting plane of the bit needs to be exactly parallel to your runners.
I'm thinking it depends on how much of the bit is in the cut, if there is only the outer part of the bit (25% ?) in the cut, going with the grain would give you a mostly with the grain cut.
I'm going to agree with Hilltop here, when I used the sled I built I would cut with the first 25-50% of the cutter. When I tried to bury the whole cutter, I would get too much uplift causing a not flat surface. By only using the normal cutting direction of the cutter (i.e. not climb cutting) the initial contact of the cutting edge is in the direction of the grain rather than perpendicular to the grain. where as if you use the same logic going across the grain, your initial contact is nearly exactly perpendicular to the grain.
I also used a trick Crusarius taught me and would make my cut then back away from the freshly cut face slightly for the gig back. If there was any uplift of the router on the initial cut, it would be taken care of by taking ~1/64" or less on the return.
Maybe the logic behind it isn't right, but it did yield the best results and smoothest finish which reduced time needed for further processing.

Crusarius

Dwyatt, I am very happy that worked for you. I thought it may be a fluke for what I was flattening. Guess not :)


busenitzcww

This may be a stupid idea, but has anybody build a router sled to go on their mill? I don't know if it would be easier to build a new carriage/head but it would be cool if you could incorporate the power feed as well. I know wood mizer makes a planer attachment, but I'm getting an LT15 wide and it doesn't fit on there so I'm trying to come up with plan B.

Crusarius

Kbeitz made one. I thought about making one. My thought about that was I would need to go get the mill set it up next to the garage so I had power then surface my slabs that way. I felt it was better to just have a setup in the garage. One day I may do what you said and make it sit on my mill but for now I do not have much reason to.

The clamping and height adjust would be extremely nice to have for the router sled.

Florida boy

I figure if they fit on the mill why not just take a skim cut to flatten it out? Then just sand and finish as usual no further  flattening is required?

Crusarius

my router leaves a much better finish than my mill. By much, I mean yugo vs ferrari.

busenitzcww

Quote from: Florida boy on May 02, 2019, 12:56:39 PM
I figure if they fit on the mill why not just take a skim cut to flatten it out? Then just sand and finish as usual no further  flattening is required?
I have no experience as far as milling, but I guess I'd want to take as light as cut as possible but stillget it flat, which seems like it could be dicey. Like trying to cut veneer on a mill? Just seems like it could be challenging on a super wide slab.

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