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uneven and wavey cuts

Started by John Grange, July 07, 2015, 09:10:06 AM

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John Grange

I am new to this, purchased a Timberking 1600. I have cut some White Oak, Red Cedar and Cottonwood with no problem. I have sharp/new blades, new belts on band wheels and good lubricant. I adjust speed blade supports, and I get wavey cuts 25% of time.

Problem #2, cutting square?

sandhills

Sorry I can't help with that but will say welcome to the forum.  I guarantee you came to the right place for help, someone will be along shortly that can help you out, there's a lot of Timberking owners here.

Seaman

Welcome to the knowledge base !
Frank
Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
John Deere 5310 W/ FEL
Semper Fi

drobertson

Not familiar with that make of mill, could it just be a little knotty?  I get some waves time to time when going from soft wood to hard knots, to fast through the knots can give you a wave. 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Den-Den

I am going to guess that the problem is blade tension too low (assuming that the waves are about evenly divided between cutting too high and too low).  Alignment issues seem to result in the blade tending to either climb or dive.  Dull blade or not enough set can also cause similar issues.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

Percy

Im only speculating here but when I was new at this, I cut a truckload of birch and thought "hey, this is neat." Then started cutting sitka spruce and was ready to quit...couldnt cut a strait board to save my life...... point being, there is a buttload of different woods to cut and all seem to have a favorite set/feed rate etc....Im still learning after 18 years....
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Magicman

Quote from: Percy on July 07, 2015, 06:22:00 PM....Im still learning after 18 years....
Yup, and in 18 more years we will still be learning.   :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

ladylake

 If your cutting spruce the best blades I've found are 4°    3/4 tooth spacing, night and day difference from 10°   7/8  tooth but the real wide cuts are still not perfect but nothing that won't plane out in the first pass.  Also make sure you have 1/4" down pressure on your blade, TK likes to send them out with only 1/8 " down pressure.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

dboyt

John, welcome to the forum!  A keyword search for "wavy cuts" will show that you're not alone.  You mention some species that you've cut with no problem.  When does your problem occur (certain species? knots? start of a cut? wide cuts?)?  Are the waves parallel in successive cuts?

There are a lot of variables-- one common mistake is slowing down to try to get straighter cuts.  Sometimes this gives the blade a chance to wander, though you may need to slow down when going through knots.  A loose drive belt that slips can also be a cause.  Doubt it is the lubricant, but out of curiosity, what is "good"?  If it is soapy, it can cause the blade to slip on the bandwheel.  Unless there is sap build-up on the blade, I just mill dry.  You might also play with the tracking to see if there is a sweet spot.  Other than that, guides and blade tension.  One other thing... you are milling at full throttle, aren't you?  Let us know what you find out.

On your problem #2, make sure your log stops are square to the track.  Even at that, I use a level to make sure the flat side is plumb when I make the second slabbing cut (this works as long as the mill is level).  As long as you have two faces 90 degrees to each other, the rest will be square.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

John Grange

Wow! thanks for the responses! The TK 1600 was purchased used with about 350 hours. the lubricant I use is recipe from former owner, 4-5 gallons water, 1/4 cup Pinesol and a couple squirts of dish was soap. set at a 10-15 drips per minute. If I do not use lubricant or too much there seems to be no difference.

The wood cut so far is White Oak, Red Cedar fresh off our farm, although some has been down for a year or so. The logs are 12" to 24" diameter 12' to 16' long. The wavy cuts may come after the third cut and varies when it starts, knots are generally not present. Seldom does the wavy last the entire log, I set my blade supports 11/2" - 2" off the log. I am thinking my slow cutting speed may be part of problem as one response was kind to point out. I do mill at full throttle and will need to check the down pressure.

I looked at a lot of mills and did my due diligence on you-tube, on-line then the TK 1600 became available. This model does not have the log loader or turner option although for a couple months retirement income they can be installed. There is hydraulic depth and cutting feed speed. I have the deck level and supported by 6 levelers, the wheels are off the ground and the mill bed does not move much, I use a 4' level check the level often.

I had all the blades set and sharpened by TK in KCMO, my tension adjustment and tracking is on the money per the manual.

This is a hobby for me currently but with so much wood available, I felt bad cutting up nice Oak and Walnut to throw in the fireplace and thought I could earn a little from the lumber and still have plenty to burn.

Maybe a road trip or two is in order so I can see how others do it. I will work on the square cuts too. Thanks for the responses, If you are ever in the El Dorado Kansas area, 21 miles north east of Wichita and you take a notion drop in, you will always be welcome.

gww

When I was getting wavy cuts. (besides still getting them when the blade gets too dull)  The thing that helped me the most was adjusting the guides.  Magicman has a picture of how to adjust them on here somewhere.  You might look up his profile and look in his galley to find it.  Basically, if you can get the blade compleetly paralel to the track and with down pressure on the roller guides it will help.  I find when I have it correct that my blade will be where I can pull it back over the cut and it just touches where I have just cut.  I cut the same wood as you are and am using 10 degree blades.  Most of my trees are also dead.  I won't say I never get a wave but if adjusted correctly get almost none.  I also cut very slow and only have a 9 horsepower motor.  The previous guys that answer know more then me but the blade being parrelel to the track has been what has helped me most.
Magics picture clarifies the proceedure better then I can explain it.
Good luck
gww

LeeB

You say that the waves start after a few cuts. I suspect that your blade is warming up and stretching. Try readjusting the tension after a couple of cuts. Check the rollers are free and nothing is dragging.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Magicman

And if the blade is warming up, it is getting or already is dull.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

dustyhat

Lots of good advise, i found my wavy cutting was from belt slippage and dull blades. still have problems with belt slipping and im running double v belts , im going to go up to three or maby timing belts.

slider

You  not alone .I did a full alignment yesterday because i had some big wide knotty pine coming up today.The knots were 3 to 4 inches.This wood was going in a cabin so i had to keep that edge straight.It came out well but not without problems.I had to slow down on knots to maintain that straight edge.I spent as much time on the sharpener and setter as i did sawing.That was just me being hard headed.I had new bands but i was determined to make that one cut.I may take Steve's advice and try some 4 degree bands next time.Good luck.
al glenn

John Grange

Well, thank you all for responding, a few medical issues resolved and I am back in business. I took my TK 1600 to the KCMO factory and two technicians and 6 hours later, we corrected several small issues. Blade tension too low, small amount of Blade Alignment and wheel alignment and things are working well. Blades are sharp, knots are not a big problem.

Found My motor was turning about 400 rpm too slow, :P my feed was ok, I do it manually by feel and the hydraulics all seemed good. Back at it but now we have just had a Thanksgiving ice-storm so it may be a while before I get back out.
I need a road trip to see how others are set up. I am in South Central Kansas, who is close?

John Grange
316-322-0433

beenthere

Forum advice is to not post your telephone number. May save you some hassle later. Use the private message feature to exchange that info.

Glad to hear you have some mill issues resolved as well as the medical ones.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

John Grange

Good advice, I have been a public servant so long I forget.

In Kansas come and see us!

valley ranch

Let me welcome you as well.
-----------------------------------------

Well fellows, I must be learning something reading these threads, I guessed what answers you would be giving and every one came up. Thanks for the good reading and tips.

fishfighter

I'm new to sawing, but one thing that has made wavy cuts is the direction of the log placed on the mill. Cutting from the small end, I got wavy cuts, even with a new blade. Swap the log around to the butt end, no more wavy cuts.

Anybody else ever notice this?

Magicman

The common advice is to saw from the top end, but the best advice would be to do whatever works best.   8)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

fishfighter

MM, this was on a second and third cut SYP logs. Big knots. Never had any problems sawing oak, no matter which end I started from.

Magicman

Big Pine knots are no fun.   :-\
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

prittgers

Some mills get wavy cuts when the blade encounters a knot.  The blade speed actually slows down and the engine RPM stays the same.  Slippage can occur in the drive belt, while a the same time, the side of the blade that is sharper or has a better set, has an advantage.  The result is porpoising and diving and frustration.

Also, please don't be offended, but when was the last time you used soap and water to take pitch off of your hands?  Doesn't work does it?  Use a quality blade lube with silicone in it like the Wood-Mizer ADD-1.  Ask them for a free sample.  It made a big difference for us.  Way less water and sawdust 'glop' in the blade housing.  And clean blades are cool.  Cool blades stay sharp a lot longer!

Welcome to the Forum.  It's a good clearing house for ideas and we all hope our input will help you!
Parker Rittgers
Professional Sawyer, Retired, well, not really !
WoodMizer Alaska | 907.360.2497 cell 336.5143 office BevelSider.com ? Everything BevelSider
907.336.5143
prittgers@aksamill.com

Kbeitz

Quote from: prittgers on December 02, 2015, 12:07:38 AM
Some mills get wavy cuts when the blade encounters a knot.  The blade speed actually slows down and the engine RPM stays the same.  Slippage can occur in the drive belt, while a the same time, the side of the blade that is sharper or has a better set, has an advantage.  The result is porpoising and diving and frustration.

Also, please don't be offended, but when was the last time you used soap and water to take pitch off of your hands?  Doesn't work does it?  Use a quality blade lube with silicone in it like the Wood-Mizer ADD-1.  Ask them for a free sample.  It made a big difference for us.  Way less water and sawdust 'glop' in the blade housing.  And clean blades are cool.  Cool blades stay sharp a lot longer!

Welcome to the Forum.  It's a good clearing house for ideas and we all hope our input will help you!
Stay away from the silicone if your making wood for furniture...
That stuff will mess with your finish...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

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