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How can I cut this with tools at hand?

Started by Jeff, July 08, 2010, 10:44:30 AM

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Jeff

I'm working on a project where I need to cut a curve out of 4 inch thick pine. I have a bandmill, I have a 8" circular saw, and I have a chainsaw. I need two of these, and they need to be as close to each other as possible. Not perfect, as this is a rustic project, but they need to be close.  Any suggestions for me to try if it ever quits raining?





Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin

Jeff,
Do you know anyone close by with a reciprocating saw?
You could do it with a hand saw. ;D

Buck

Jeff, i have a reciprocating saw and an upright bandsaw you are welcome to use. 
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

Buck

and if you can do it with a woodmizer please video and post
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

Jeff

I have an idea on how I could do it with the wood-mizer, but the knubbins on the end become a problem. I could eliminate them from my design, but I don't want to if I dont have to.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Larry

Cut the curve on the mizer but leave a little extra meat.  Saw a kerf with the circular saw for the nubbins and use a chisel to clean out the waste.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Jeff

Larry, how would you go about cutting the curve on the wood-mizer?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Bro. Noble

If I were doing that,  I'd make a pattern out of cardboard and mark both sides of your 4X6's.  Then I'd cut halfway through from both sides with a chainsaw using the tip of the bar.  Then I'd smooth the cut surface off with first a chainsaw,  then with a drawknife or a plane or a piece of broken glass,  or whatever was handy.
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Buck

I was wise crackin bout the mizer but I am interested in ya'lls ideas.
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

Jeff

I forgot to mention, this is redpine, so its not overly hard to work with.  My other thought was maybe rough it out with the chainsaw and use a belt sander to get it closer, but seeing is this is just air dried redpine, I think a belt would clog quite rapidly.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Jeff

If I could cut the curve on the wood-mizer some how, I could fasten the two 4x6's together and cut them at the same time so they were pretty much identical.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Sprucegum

I would fasten the two together and go at'em with the chainsaw; then the belt sander. Use a coarse grit to start and clean it with a wire brush when it clogs.

metalspinner

Cross cut kerfs down the length of the curve with the circular saw adjusting the depth along the way to meet your layout line.  Then chip out the segements with with a chisel and clean up the profile with the belt sander or block plane.  The circ saw should be easier to control than the chainsaw.
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Larry

Quote from: Jeff on July 08, 2010, 11:54:10 AM
Larry, how would you go about cutting the curve on the wood-mizer?

I dunno...I thought you already had that part figured out. :D :D
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

metalspinner

QuoteQuote from: Jeff on Today at 11:54:10 am
Larry, how would you go about cutting the curve on the wood-mizer?


I dunno...I thought you already had that part figured out. 

It's a bandsaw, right?  Clamp up a table perpendicular to the blade and move the work through the blade.(easier said than done. ;))
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

pigman

Just use the mizer as a horizonal band saw and free hand. Clamp a board to use as a table and free hand starting in the middle and working both ways. :-\ Please don't  try this until after the pig roast. I would hate to see you with one arm missing. :o 
I see metalspinner is quicker than I am. ;)
Things turn out best for people who make the best of how things turn out.

Jeff

The problem with that is Gravity. A full 4x6 is heavy!
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

stumpy

Raise the head of the Woodmizer up to about 20".  set the carriage in the center of the mill.  Draw the curve on the side of the piece.  Make yourself a support right under the saw.  Lay the board on the support and using as a pivot, run it through the blade (with the carriage held in place) like it was a regular band saw.  Stop the blade at the notch and back it out.  Then just finish cutting out the notches with a circular saw.  It may be a little tricky, but I believe it can be done.  If my explanation doesn't make sense, just think of the WM as a bandsaw laid on it's side.  The pivot is just so you don't have to hold up the piece.
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

Burlkraft

Bring it over and we'll saw it on my big bandsaw  ;D  ;D
Why not just 1 pain free day?

jdtuttle

Use the woodmizer. Clamp both pieces together. Make the first cut to the top line of layout. Shim up one end and cut to the line again. Repeat until your close to the high point of the nub. Finish with 8" saw. Turn the piece around and repeat the process. Then sand them while clamped.
jim
Have a great day

jander3

Easy cut with a small chainsaw.  Clean up with an axe, adze, drawknife, and/or chiesel.

rph816

I'd look into borrowing some shop time and cutting it on a regular bandsaw.  Cutting forms with the tips of chainsaws or trying to freehand on a sawmill sound like you want to lose some body parts.  Even on a 4x6 a 14" bandsaw with a decent blade would make short, but accurate, work out of it and virtually eliminate your chance of catestrophic failure.

Ryan

Jeff

The deed is done. I used the chainsaw. I have to clean it up a bit with the belt sander, but its good enough for its intended purpose.

I can't say what that is yet.  ;D
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

barbender

Too many irons in the fire

fiddle1

had to build some beds doing just what your doing with those types of curves.

i guess im just too late---just saw your post --so ill descrive this anyhow---a woodworker just showed me how to cut nice long flowing curves with just a tablesaw.

you place a template on the wood peice.

The template
is the outer lines shape made by drawing lines tangent to the curve and 3mm from
the finished edge.

draw as few lines as possible to take the greatest amount of material in straght cuts.

he then had an L shaped jig peice thats sorta like a fence ----that piece that has riserblocks under it thats clamped to the table. it is clamped sturdy so its not touching the blade. the template rides aginst this and you have to make sure its clamped tight and that its square to the table and parrelell to the blade. 

the longest straight cuts occur first riding the template against the L-shaped peice

the two peices are double stick taped together and the blade is raised.
the template is double stick taped to the two peices being cut. drywall screws are sometimes used to make sure it really stays put, these are on the ends so they can be filled later or cut off.

you whittle the shape from widest point of the curve in straight cuts,  each cut is supported and straight. you then do the other side the same way.

its actually amazing how smooth a curve you get. little palm sanding and im done.
no bandsaws no riser blocks no expensive jigs. nice curve. done with tools at hand. no chainsaws.
8)




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