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refer box for kiln chamber?

Started by j_d, January 02, 2018, 09:06:55 PM

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j_d

So, I have ordered an L53 from Nyle.  The guys there have been very helpful and patient answering all my noob questions.  Anyway I have chosen no to go the stick frame route for a chamber because among other reasons I am reorganizing my lot in a couple years hopefully to put up a good size building.  In the meantime I want a kiln that can later be repositioned.  I have found a refer box in good shape that measures 12'x7'3"x about 8'high on the inside.  It has a few dings but appears to be tight with cam locking doors that open all the way up across the back.  It has 4" of spray foam insulation throught, a stainless or aluminum floor and white plastic or fiberglass walls and ceiling.  Door gaskets are pretty decent but they are throwing in new gaskets for me to install if I want.  I am thinking this would be just the ticket for a small kiln chamber for what I am wanting.  I beleive this is also going to be cheaper than the slab and stick method.  I plan on pulling the trigger on this in the next week but am interested in hearing anyones ideas or concerns.
Thanks,
Josh 
God, Family, Tribe

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

We prefer to have at least 6", and better is 8", of insulation on walls, floor and roof with a DH kiln.  When using electric, building heat losses are expensive without lots of,insulation.  We prefer closed cell insulation to avoid having moisture get into the insulation and destroying its insulating properties.

Follow NYLE's suggestions on the details of the building.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

WDH

It could work, but you will not be able to load it to the capacity of the L53 to dry wood.  You need at least 18" between the door and the wood and 18" between the wood and the unit, another 18" between the unit and the wall, so that only leaves you with the ability to have a wood stack that is only 2.5' wide.  This means that you will be giving up about 40% of the units drying capacity because the chamber is small. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

K-Guy

Hi Josh
Stan from Nyle here. Check with the manufacturer of the reefer and see if the walls can take the heat. Those units are only designed for cold.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

j_d

Thanks for all the replies.  I am on a budget and need to keep the kiln semi portable and really want to get it right the first time.
I spoke to an engineer at the manufacturer today.  I specifically asked about temps up to 150.  His opinion was that except for some yellowing of pannels and possibly some waviness showing up in the pannels due to expansion it should be ok.  I could also put in a layer of some type of foam board to increase the R value.  Obviously this is no guarantee but I am willing to give it a try if the size will work.  The capacity is my biggest concern.  Stan I think we discussed an 8x10 chamber.  Am I going to lose much being less than 8' but over 7' wide?
God, Family, Tribe

WDH

In the Nyle plans for the L53 chamber, the distance from the door to the wood and from the wood to the dehumidification unit are minimums.  The kiln will work more efficiently if you increase that distance by about 12" front and back. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

moodnacreek

The dh reefer kiln I once looked at was fed from the end like when it was a truck. They built a carriage for the load running on sawmill rails out of the box and into the yard where a fork lift could be used.

j_d

You are correct it does load from the back.  Also I spoke to Stan by phone who has been very helpful.  They do not recomend a stack wider than 4'.  This would leave me 3' plus a little for the unit and spacing.  This may not be 100% ideal but the consensus is it should work pretty good and keep me semi portable which is important for my set up.  I am using this to get my feet wet and to hopefully make some cash.  If it goes well I will likely put something larger and more permanent in the future or I could switch out chambers.  I appreciate all the ideas and concerns.   
God, Family, Tribe

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

With air dried lumber going into the kiln, air flow is not critical, so the side spacing can be fairly small.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

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