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How would you level this?

Started by kelLOGg, June 30, 2015, 07:00:09 PM

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kelLOGg

It's a so-so red oak left on the ground far too long before the owner called me. It is 20" and 15" at the ends with a 12" branch near the small end and the piths are not too far off center. My question is how to level to account for the effect of the branch. The log has sap rot and end rot that goes about 2' up and some 3/4" worm holes and the owner wants 4.5" flooring from it. It will be disappointing in that regard but I thought it might make a challenging log for getting the most from it.
Bob

(Sorry about the horizontal pic - rotating it distorted it ???)


  

 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

bkaimwood

Well I'm no expert, but here is what I would do if it was on my mill...you've already stated its pretty straight and even, as far as centering the pith... The only question is where to put the offshoot/branch....well, no matter how you rotate the log, the firewood will still be there, and still come from the same side, nothing will change that, of coarse...depending on log length, the best you hope for is short boards, cutting the defect out of the center of the board later...its a good size branch, so the defect will likely run deep...I would start with it at the bottom, or 6:00...or at any point that is 90 or 180 degrees from that, when you square the cant....I can't see how anything in between would help...quartersawn is typically best in oak, and I can't see how that would change anything...hopefully some experts will chime in and confirm my suspicions, or learn us both...
bk

WoodenHead

I'm definitely no expert either, but I put the majority of the major defects at 1:30, 4:30, 7:30, or 10:30.  I try to keep a defect out of the face of the boards and more towards the edges (with the hope that it is edged out).  If you are quarter sawing (depending on technique), you might be able to eliminate the defect entirely.  Some logs you just can't win though.   :-\

LittleJohn

Quote from: WoodenHead on July 01, 2015, 10:40:08 AM
I'm definitely no expert either, but I put the majority of the major defects at 1:30, 4:30, 7:30, or 10:30.  I try to keep a defect out of the face of the boards and more towards the edges (with the hope that it is edged out).  If you are quarter sawing (depending on technique), you might be able to eliminate the defect entirely.  Some logs you just can't win though.   :-\

I never QS, always use the Sawing-for-Grade, typically only have to rotate 3x, unless the log has a TON of stress and is moving around
...GOOD LUCK

Magicman

It's easy to over think a log like that.  You are either going to get full length boards with grain runout, or some long and some short boards.  I would open it for the maximum long boards.


 
Those type logs occasionally come along.  Salvage what is there and move on.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

starmac

Ok, I'm new at this, so bear with me MM.
Would a log like that not be hard on blades. So far any logs I have messed with that has any rot in the but, I have cut them off, before cutting the log to length, but I have never seen anyone drag any log anywhere near that bad out of the woods, even to throw on a bonfire.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Magicman

 :) You noticed.  That was a sinker cypress log that had been recovered from a swamp.  You should have seen it before it got pressure washed, but obviously not very well.  The cavities were choked with mud so that bit on the outside really did not matter. 

Yes, I went through some blades sawing that job, but the $$$ made it worthwhile. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

kelLOGg

I put the big knot at 45° from that shown (as Woodenhead suggested) and that proved to be good advice. A significant portion of the knot was sawn out so only a few boards had part of the knot in them. Sorry, no pics. I intended to include them but every time I went out to saw - well, I forgot the camera. The lumber turned out quite decent. Except for the obvious butt rot I got full 16' lumber.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

petefrom bearswamp

I have no idea what you should have  done with your log.
My worst log was a white oak that was washed  out of a stream bed and had sand everywhere.Brushed it off as best we could and plain sawed around the defects.
Dulled 3 blades but destroyed none.
Ring count was 25- 30 per inch.
I was surprised at the amount of decent lumber we got.
Glad to hear you got some good stuff for your pains.
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

Magicman

Good job Bob.  It's easy to overthink a log.  Sometimes you just gotta bit the bullet (old saying) and saw that sucker. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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