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Chainsaw fuel help please

Started by KAR 120C, February 10, 2019, 09:01:10 AM

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Al_Smith

Quote from: Rebarb on February 11, 2019, 07:29:25 PM
Quote from: Al_Smith on February 11, 2019, 08:27:52 AM
:D If you all don't mind I think I'll set this one out .This grand old debate is endless and amusing .Do carry on but remember --spare the oil spoil the saw . ;)
Lol, are you trying to say oil threads get opinionated.
" spare the the oil spoil the saw " ?
Old testament ?
Yes you might say opinionated --to extremes .Then when you get to the gas it really gets amusing .More actual "old school " than old testament . ;)

doc henderson

I have never met him in person, but I'm betting that old greenhorn is both a little oily and a little gassy.  cause he seems a lot like me!!! :-\ smiley_airfreshener smiley_beertoast  just kiddin OG.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: doc henderson on February 11, 2019, 09:22:01 PM

At least you don't spill it every time now!!!   8)
No not every time, in fact rarely, but I have to be really mindful when I pour. When I do miss, I cuss at myself a lot, but I am lazy, and neat so even then, the fuel is not on me, but I hate having it all over the saw. I started a habit my Dad taught me when I was a kid and I don't mention it because most folks think it's weird, but he taught me to take a rag and wipe off the caps (sawdust, grit, etc) BEFORE I open them so nothing can go in the tank when I remove them, it makes sense and I always do it. I also wipe the residue off after I put the caps back on to minimize what would get 'collected' by the spillage when I am running the saw.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: doc henderson on February 11, 2019, 10:09:26 PMI have never met him in person, but I'm betting that old greenhorn is both a little oily and a little gassy.  cause he seems a lot like me!!! :-\ smiley_airfreshener smiley_beertoast  just kiddin OG.
Aren't we all from time to time?
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

lxskllr

Quote from: Old Greenhorn on February 11, 2019, 10:18:35 PM

 I started a habit my Dad taught me when I was a kid and I don't mention it because most folks think it's weird, but he taught me to take a rag and wipe off the caps (sawdust, grit, etc) BEFORE I open them so nothing can go in the tank when I remove them, it makes sense and I always do it.
I /try/ to do that, but I don't have my rag with me half the time. I still try to brush it off with a glove if there's a lot of funk on it. After that, I don't worry about cleaning it. If I slop on the saw, I figure it'll come off with use. I'm not much on cleaning saws anyway. I clean it functionally. Just get rid of the crud that can affect operation, but I don't much care what it looks like.

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: lxskllr on February 11, 2019, 10:24:09 PMI /try/ to do that, but I don't have my rag with me half the time. I still try to brush it off with a glove if there's a lot of funk on it. After that, I don't worry about cleaning it. If I slop on the saw, I figure it'll come off with use. I'm not much on cleaning saws anyway. I clean it functionally. Just get rid of the crud that can affect operation, but I don't much care what it looks like.
AT this point I am thinking poor KAR has no idea how his simple request has gone so far awry from what he hoped  :D. I think he got what he was looking for though. 
Lxsklir, I don't know if you and I could work together  ;D I think cleaning saves on a lot of repair time. I was in a class a while back and the instructor took the side plate off the saw and laid it by the side as he explained the things he was teaching about. As he talked, I quietly picked up the side plate, took out my pocket knife and cleaned it off all the junks and gunks that was crammed into every corner. When he picked it put up to put in on again, he said "this isn't mine, where did I lay mine?" I told him that was his, I just cleaned it and he said I got ahead of him. Cleaning solves a lot of problems before they start, but that's just my take. :)
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

lxskllr

After I'm done for the day, I brush the inside of the sprocket cover with a toothbrush. I don't worry about all the crevices unless I don't want to go inside yet, but don't want to do real work either. I'll sit on a stump and pick crud out of the cracks, but they just get filled again on the next cut. It's just busy work.


The bar gets cleaned and flipped whenever it comes off the saw. If it doesn't come off, it doesn't get cleaned, but it usually comes off at least once a session, unless it was just a few quick cuts.


Air filter gets checked every so often. Moreso when cutting vines cause of the weed debris. I used up a whole chain before I cleaned the filter on my 362, and it only marginally needed it then. I have to knock the dust out of the echo every couple times I take it out for vines.



I don't care at all about the outside of the case. Brush off the louvers for the air intake is about it.

doc henderson

i clean inside the chain guard so that it can be tightened up without stuff under the case that may cause it to loosen up too quick.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Air Lad

Quote from: Old Greenhorn on February 11, 2019, 10:45:06 PM
Quote from: lxskllr on February 11, 2019, 10:24:09 PMI /try/ to do that, but I don't have my rag with me half the time. I still try to brush it off with a glove if there's a lot of funk on it. After that, I don't worry about cleaning it. If I slop on the saw, I figure it'll come off with use. I'm not much on cleaning saws anyway. I clean it functionally. Just get rid of the crud that can affect operation, but I don't much care what it looks like.
AT this point I am thinking poor KAR has no idea how his simple request has gone so far awry from what he hoped  :D. I think he got what he was looking for though.
Lxsklir, I don't know if you and I could work together  ;D I think cleaning saves on a lot of repair time. I was in a class a while back and the instructor took the side plate off the saw and laid it by the side as he explained the things he was teaching about. As he talked, I quietly picked up the side plate, took out my pocket knife and cleaned it off all the junks and gunks that was crammed into every corner. When he picked it put up to put in on again, he said "this isn't mine, where did I lay mine?" I told him that was his, I just cleaned it and he said I got ahead of him. Cleaning solves a lot of problems before they start, but that's just my take. :)
Good story and it just makes sense to try to blow/wipe/brush off dust and dirt and woodchips when opening and pouring new stuff in to any tank.
Crikey..It aint rocket surgery men  :o

trapper

Since I started using a grinder to sharpen my chains I have to take them off to sharpen.  Before putting them back on  I use my air compressor to clean the chain cover and saw.  Easier and better job than using a rag.  Wont work in the woods but normally with 2 saws I only need to sharpen at home and not have to switch chains.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

upnut

I always keep a paint brush with the saw kit, perfect for brushing away debris from oil/fuel caps. My first job as a twenty-something year old was at a road commission, and the chainsaws were always put away clean, sharp and full of fuel in preparation for that midnight storm damaged tree in the roadway. Still have that habit.
      I agree with earlier posts about canned pre-mix fuel, it would save alot of trouble if the saws sit on the shelf as much as cut. 

Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

KAR 120C

Well well well. That did promote quite a debate!

Thank you all for your recommendations and huge experience.

I have decided to go the sensible route and use genuine Husqvarna two stroke oil and Husqvarna's chain oil too. Regarding petrol, I will likely use "super unleaded" fuel provided by UK petrol filling stations AFTER confirming it's constituents are ethanol free.

One last question, what are the benefits of mineral vs synthetic vs semi-synthetic 2 stroke oils?

I really appreciate the input thank you again, from across the pond. 

Michael

lxskllr

My impression is synthetic is more robust than dino oil. Holds up to temperature longer, and flows better at all temps. I'm not a chemist, and haven't spent a lot of time studying it, so take that for what it's worth. Synthetic blends are supposed to convey some of the benefits of synthetic at a lower price. IMO, the price drop isn't enough to bother. I use full synthetic lubricants for just about everything, but if you gave me decent dino oil, I'd use it. Using my own money, I buy synthetic.

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: KAR 120C on February 13, 2019, 02:17:14 PMOne last question, what are the benefits of mineral vs synthetic vs semi-synthetic 2 stroke oils?
Well, Kar, I did warn you, and you got what you asked for and just a tad more, eh?  :D

 Now why did you go and poke the bear again? (I gotta go get more popcorn.)
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Inaotherlife

Blue or red. Semi or full synthetic.

Inaotherlife

Looks like the higher end stuff like XP+ and Red Armor are semi-synthetic.

realzed

Quote from: lxskllr on February 13, 2019, 03:03:38 PM
My impression is synthetic is more robust than dino oil. Holds up to temperature longer, and flows better at all temps. I'm not a chemist, and haven't spent a lot of time studying it, so take that for what it's worth. Synthetic blends are supposed to convey some of the benefits of synthetic at a lower price. IMO, the price drop isn't enough to bother. I use full synthetic lubricants for just about everything, but if you gave me decent dino oil, I'd use it. Using my own money, I buy synthetic.
For what is worth I asked one of my local Stihl dealers why they have a large stock always of Stihl Ultra synthetic premix, when my closer, other dealer will only carry the orange bottle regular type.
The second dealer told me "we won't bring Ultra in because people don't like the extra cost (pretty minor difference in my opinion actually) and for whatever little difference it makes it's not worth stocking it".
They did offer that they could easily get me some if I wished to buy a sizable amount of it (like a case of it ~ $100 + dollars!) if I was willing to buy that much  - otherwise they were happy to just sell the regular type!
The first dealer that stocks a lot of it, as I mentioned, told me in comparison when I asked why so much it was piled up in the showroom?.. "because the local model airplane club has found it is the only oil that they have tried that will stand up in the member's mixed-fuel aircraft engines that spin 20,000 + rpms in their planes and they say they have tried just about every brand or type available and for the cost and performance it provides them, it works best and they buy a lot of it.. so that aside, from customers like yourself who actually use it in lawn, garden, and cutting equipment, that is why we need and like to stock so much"..
That tells me - that the synthetic works a lot better to protect air cooled engines subjected to extreme rpm levels, odd-ball types of fuel mixtures, and under extreme conditions that often prove most - if not all other conventional pre-mixes incapable of providing decent protection..
I always used the Stihl Ultra, even prior to hearing that - but it certainly cemented my thinking that there is a good reason why it is good solid logic to assume it is better than all other non synthetic types - or in fact even some if not most other types of synthetic pre-mixers as well!  

Air Lad

Stihl dealer 1/2 mile away
He gets me 0dd parts in 2 days usually
as soon as I have burned up this semi synth Penrite ( ok stuff)
I will go for the Ultra smiley_thumbsup

logmason

See where auto oil says "meets or accedes", It does not say that on 2 stroke oil. They could add goat pee and be legal.
I will not run outboard boat oil made for use in water cooled engines.
Remember the lawn boy 2 strokes? Every one was covered in oil, that oil does not burn through the system.
One of these days I will rebuild an old lawn boy and run saw fuel just to see if it gets oil soaked

I worked at an oil blending plant for a time. I was surprised that several brands came from the same spigot, meets or accedes.
The master blenders as they were called, when they tool oil home the brand was always,,,
military.

I try to run husqvarna, stihl, or echo. I'm sure there are others that are fine.


Pine Ridge

Mix Husqvarna xp with 91 octane ethanol free fuel at 40 or 50 to 1 and make the sawdust fly.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

HolmenTree

I swear by the Stihl Premium (orange cap) we get here in  Canada. It's Castrol Super 2 Stroke blended for Stihl. I've been using it for 40 years in my saws and get decades out of my saws.


 

 

 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Air Lad

Quote from: HolmenTree on February 20, 2019, 10:52:53 AM
I swear by the Stihl Premium (orange cap) we get here in  Canada. It's Castrol Super 2 Stroke blended for Stihl. I've been using it for 40 years in my saws and get decades out of my saws.


 

 


Can't quite read the back of the bottle. Is it synthetic ?

lxskllr

I just mixed my first batch of PoulanPro full synthetic oil. I'll let you all know if my saws burn up  :^D

I was using Stihl HP Ultra, but I like the squeeze & measure bottle the Poulan stuff came in. Easier to mix odd size batches, and I prefer fuel mixed a little richer than 50:1. Probably doesn't matter, but it gives me the warm and fuzzies, so the minor added cost isn't a big deal, and it almost certainly won't hurt.

Air Lad

Yeah mate. 50 :1 was leaving my 260c looking a bit dry inside .My mate runs 32.5 :1 but too oily and smokey for mine. Am trying 40:1 at present with Penrite semi synth and an additive as will. The Ultra I will try next time.

HolmenTree

Quote from: Air Lad on February 20, 2019, 01:56:22 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on February 20, 2019, 10:52:53 AM
I swear by the Stihl Premium (orange cap) we get here in  Canada. It's Castrol Super 2 Stroke blended for Stihl. I've been using it for 40 years in my saws and get decades out of my saws.


 

 


Can't quite read the back of the bottle. Is it synthetic ?
Not synthetic,  it's  the orange cap that we call Stihl Premium here. It's rebadged Castrol Super 2 Stroke as first pic shows.
We have full synthetic Stihl Ultra also but it doesn't say Made by Castrol for Stihl like the orange cap Premium says on its back label.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

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