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Deere woes

Started by thenorthman, September 15, 2014, 08:37:55 AM

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thenorthman

couple of things need some maintenance... just wondering how big a job its going to be...

First thing is the clutch is starting to slip, like its got oil on it, is there any way to inspect it without pulling motor?  I'm fairly sure where the oil is coming from (hydro/trans) just hoping its not the front seal on tranny, she has a nest of hoses under the dash and one or two of them are a bit loose, unfortunately the genius that owned it before me welded the side covers in place.

Second thing, the front axle doesn't lock up, foot peddle thingy moves just fine, but when its engaged she pretty much just pukes fluid out the wheel bearings,  which also need replaced.  I'm not real sure how the axle is plumbed or what to look for to fix.  The locker has never worked for me, luckily its a psycho rage tranny and the rear axle is spooled.

There are many other things that frankly need to be looked at, but time and money dictate what gets fixed. Things like upper cradle bearing, left side steer cylinder (said genius stepped on it with calks on). more hydro lines that are loose, and hard to get to... otherwise she runs great!
well that didn't work

beenthere

Which of many Deere is woeing you?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

snowstorm

the motor has to come out to replace the clutch. hydra pump and rad dont have to come off. it all comes out together.the diff lock could be a couple things. this is a 440a? do you push down or back for the dif lock? the old ones you steped down on it. they didnt always work that well. could be in the valve. if you could fine a newer one you may be better off. oil should not come out the axle seals. it should drain back to the trans. the front axles are easier to fix than the rear. raise the front with the blade take the wheel off then it will drop down so you can unbolt it. it is very heavy. the cradle pin and bushing on the other end must be greased if not the bolt that holds the oin in will break and out comes the pin. steering cly most that old had trouble with the chrome coming off. only one cyl is double acting the other is kind of a damper. steering valves on them is trouble always was almost from the time they were new. they were wayyy to complex. later they went the a helm much better and cheap. i bought a new one when i power power steering on my kubota  for $400   

thenorthman

Deere 440 A.

Yeah oil out the wheel seals... bearings are pretty shot so I imagine the seals are decorative. usually only when I'm working on steep hills (which by the way is a really bad idea in a small Deere...).

Also I stuck a side cover into the fan awhile back... tore the radiator up pretty bad, I think its finally stopped leaking (or its out of fluid again) luckily the temp gauge still works. (15 pounds of acid core solder later... and a can of barsleak...)

The steer cylinder still has the chrome but you can totally see where someones calks have dug into the piston. pretty much means I need a new piston/rod, and frankly the fluid is cheaper for as much as it leaks there.
well that didn't work

snowstorm

the outer wheel bearing is lubed by grease only. could be the bearing is bad lets the axle move some lets it leak. i would not use it till fixed. there has been a lot of those housings sold because they were run with a bad wheel bearing.

Duhnis

You can fix that cylinder rod by filling in the gouges with a two part epoxy or Devon plastic metal and sanding it smooth. Sounds like the diff lock is leaking so badly that it is pressurizing the housing causing oil to flow past the grease and seals . Running this with a bad wheel bearing is a costly mistake, I  have fixed a few housings, not cheap .
Duhnis

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