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Husqvarna 562XP Upgrades 2015.

Started by HolmenTree, September 16, 2015, 08:33:43 PM

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HolmenTree

OK no boring videos to put you to sleep....just photos and good English language :)

To start this new thread, I'm now on my 3rd year with my 2012  8th week manufactured 562XP. Now you must understand I'm not logging 8 hours a day with this saw. The work it does in my tree service operation is shared with other multiple  saws. But it is my main go to saw, and it does have well over 1500 hours on it with no mechanical issues what so ever  not even a new carb kit installed yet.

I recently did a muffler mod to it and the way the muffler is designed there is no baffle with holes over the cylinder exhaust port like mufflers of old, just a sloped wall of metal to deflect the exhaust into the bottom of the muffler.
Now the trouble with these EPA compliant mufflers is its small exhaust outlet hole. As my photo shows I drilled two 5/16" holes on opposite sides of the outlet and still am able to retain the factory installed spark arrestor screen. This modification has greatly helped stop the saws hot start carb flooding issues and decimal levels are still modest.

I also decided to run .325 chisel chain with a 9 pin rim sprocket on a 18" Cannon Super Mini bar . The Chinese made sprocket nose tip that Cannon originally installed burned out recently so I replaced it with a genuine Windsor Mini Pro tip.
I file the chain with a 5 mm file rather then the smaller diameter  3/16" file normally used..... for that little bit better chip clearance and flow.
Last photo notice the smaller 550XP dog I installed to match the shorter 18" .325 b/c.

How does my 562XP cut?
It's a light sabre ;D


  

  

  

 

Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree

Here's  a pic of its spark plug after the muffler mod with a nice tan color.


 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Pine Ridge

Holmentree How do you think that muffler mod would work on a 550xp ? Maybe drill smaller holes than on the 562 muffler ? I haven't done anything to my 550 except run it.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

HolmenTree

Quote from: Pine Ridge on September 16, 2015, 09:12:54 PM
Holmentree How do you think that muffler mod would work on a 550xp ? Maybe drill smaller holes than on the 562 muffler ? I haven't done anything to my 550 except run it.
From looking at the 2 models being almost virtually identical  I would give it a try.
I can guarantee you Husqvarna  would have dual outlet mufflers available if they could get them past the EPA folks.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Pine Ridge

Ok thanks, i will tinker with my 550 when i get a chance.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

nitehawk55

Willard . did you drill those holes with the muffler on ??

Any metal in that muffler could get in the exhaust port so I would strongly suggest anyone doing this to remove the muffler and blow it out with compressed air real well or even flush it with water several times .
The risk is small BUT ...........
I AM NOT BRAND LOYAL !

HolmenTree

Quote from: nitehawk55 on September 16, 2015, 09:52:30 PM
Willard . did you drill those holes with the muffler on ??

Any metal in that muffler could get in the exhaust port so I would strongly suggest anyone doing this to remove the muffler and blow it out with compressed air real well or even flush it with water several times .
The risk is small BUT ...........
no worries :D I did it with the muffler removed. But thanks for bringing  that up I should have explained that earlier.
I'll do that in my next post.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree


Before you drill the two holes in the muffler make sure you remove the muffler first to avoid getting filings and metal fragments sucked into the p/c upon starting up the saw.

Bend the exhaust outlet deflector upwards with a pair of pliers to get access to drill. With a center punch make 2 indents of opposite sides of the outlet. Drill pilot holes with a 1/8" drill bit, then finish with the 5/16" bit. The drilling will have to be done at a slight angle as the deflector can't be bent far enough back without tearing it. After holes are drilled bend deflector back in its original position with a small hammer.
Shake out any metal filings and fragments then finish with lots of compressed air, reinstall spark arrestor screen and screw. Replace muffler to saw with 2 muffler gaskets on both sides of the aluminum heat shield.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

mcourtney

HolmenTree , I sure like your little Norwegian flag keychain fob! Would love to find one of the Danish flag.

HolmenTree

Quote from: mcourtney on September 17, 2015, 01:34:17 AM
HolmenTree , I sure like your little Norwegian flag keychain fob! Would love to find one of the Danish flag.
Thanks mcourtney , my Aunt from Oslo gave me that key fob 30 years ago. I think of it as a good luck charm.
Are you in Minnesota as I notice Pomme de Terre on your avatar?
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

LeeB

When I put a new piston and jug on my 346XP I don't recall there being any muffler gaskets, only the heat shield. Should there be gaskets?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

cbla


49er

I use a round carbide burr in a die grinder for getting under the defector. Using one allows the option of making the holes oblong. I always have trouble holding the muffler in the vice. It likes to vibrate loose. Last time I took a piece of wood and bolted the muffler to that and then clamped the wood into the vice. It works for me.
Husqvarna EC390 365xt
Jonsered 2188 2165 2260 2253 70e
Redmax GZ4000

HolmenTree

Quote from: LeeB on September 17, 2015, 05:36:47 AM
When I put a new piston and jug on my 346XP I don't recall there being any muffler gaskets, only the heat shield. Should there be gaskets?
Lee thanks for bringing this up , I hope others will chime in on this gasket issue.

Yes there is a gasket between the muffler and the heat shield on the 562XP , not sure about the 346.
The gasket gets welded  to the heat shield from heat so you may not have noticed it. I checked both 550 and 562 IPL's  and there's only 1 gasket between the muffler and aluminum heat Shield.  The heat shield is bare against the cylinder exhaust port.

I put an extra gasket between the heat shield and cylinder, but my questions to anyone out there is "should the gasket not be there so the cylinder heat can be properly transfered through the aluminum heat shield by metal to metal connection?"
"Or does it matter as it was just  a cost and weight saving design?"
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

LeeB

There was no gasket when I took the muffler off. I was actually kind of surprised. I recall checking the heat shield to see if one had indeed welded itself to it, but it was the same on either side. I think I have the IPL for it on my laptop. I'll check if it calls for one when I knock off this afternoon. Can't quite reach the saw from over here to check it out.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

HolmenTree

Quote from: 49er on September 17, 2015, 08:24:37 AM
I use a round carbide burr in a die grinder for getting under the defector. Using one allows the option of making the holes oblong. I always have trouble holding the muffler in the vice. It likes to vibrate loose. Last time I took a piece of wood and bolted the muffler to that and then clamped the wood into the vice. It works for me.
That's a good idea 49er. Dremil would work great as the drill bit tends to make tear small fragments around the hole radius in the thin metal.
Anyone using the drill method make sure as I did was scrape the edges after to remove any fragments.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

LeeB

Apparently it does have a gasket. Just looked it up. Could well be that my memory is less than stellar on the account. I have been to sleep at least once since then.  :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

snowshoveler

With 1500 hours on it I am impressed with your care and use of a saw.
Here in Nova Scotia we find that the best is out of them by 1000 hours.
I plug in every one that comes in the shop to check and we keep track of them as best as we can.
I would say that most of the saws early demise is because of our typical small limmy wood.
The saw is on or close to the rev limiter all the time.
How do you find yours with the .325 chain, does it run up to the limiter in big wood or perhaps there is enough load to keep it happy.
Thanks for the tips ad update.
Regards Chris
International T5 dozer
JD M tractor
MF skidloader
Jonsered chainmill
Vintage Belsaw

Spike60

Great thread Willard! I like this reference style with pics. Often thought about doing a reference series myself focusing on different saw chassis. Maybe this winter. A written version of those "boring" youtube vids Walter and I do.  :D 

I like the legal muff mod idea. Was 5/16 the biggest drill that would fit in there? I might try that with a 3/8 drill. Or like 49er says, just make them a little bigger with a die grinder. It's not just about better breathing for power, but getting some of the heat out of there. That's what has helped with the hot start issue.

And .325 on a 60cc saw does work nice. I have one of my 262's set up with an 8 pin .325, and I'm happy with the results.

And yeah guys 346's are supposed to have a muffler gasket. And the order they go on with Huskys is: Muffler, then gasket, and then the deflector up against the cylinder.

Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

HolmenTree

Chris,
I always use 40:1 mix and mercilessly keep my chains sharp. Probably why I'm  having good service out of the 562, never had it checked and upgraded by the dealership either.
Don't know about the rev limiter as I never noticed it, Rev boost does everything for me I need.
I like the .325 chain as it's  close in cutter size to the 76LG I've run. But I only  have  a few loops of the long discontinued 76 chain but have lots of .325
Only trouble gearing is limited with the 9 pin rim as that's  the only .325 rim sprocket that will fit the 562's standard 7 spline clutch drum.
Can a 560 or Jonsered equivalent  small 7 spline clutch setup fit a 562XP ?

Bob,
Thanks, I got lots of shop time lately as we're  getting lots of rain.

I was referring to the boring mod videos everyone's making on YT, not yours and Walts...you guys do it right.
I may try larger holes later but so far happy. As I said to Chris I'd  like to try other smaller .325 rims but the 562 standard 7 spline drum only allows a 9 pin rim which is a tad larger then a 8 pin 3/8.
Do 560 or Jonsered equivalent  small 7 spline clutch setups exchange with the 562?
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree

Odd. According to the 560 and 562 IPL'S both share the same clutch drum and bearing. But they don't  share the same oil pump ring gear.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

SawTroll

Quote from: HolmenTree on September 17, 2015, 12:12:51 PM
.....

Only trouble gearing is limited with the 9 pin rim as that's  the only .325 rim sprocket that will fit the 562's standard 7 spline clutch drum.
Can a 560 or Jonsered equivalent  small 7 spline clutch setup fit a 562XP ?

.....

As I said to Chris I'd  like to try other smaller .325 rims but the 562 standard 7 spline drum only allows a 9 pin rim which is a tad larger then a 8 pin 3/8.
Do 560 or Jonsered equivalent  small 7 spline clutch setups exchange with the 562?

I assume that will work fine, as both drum options are listed in several IPLs for this saw family (if not all?).
Information collector.

HolmenTree

Thanks I was waiting for you to chip in SawTroll.
I have the earlier 2011 560 and 562 IPL'S and their clutch #s are the same but their oiler drive ring gears are different....odd
Nothing to confirm which is small 7 spline or standard 7 spline
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

SawTroll

Look at frame B in the attached 2013 560 IPL. The set listed as .325x7 includes the small spline drum, the one listed as 3/8x7 includes the standard spline drum.

The drum kits are the same between the models - the oiler gears are different between the models, but not between the different drums on the same model. If anyone knows for sure why it is this way, it likely is Spike60....
Information collector.

HolmenTree

Thanks Niko.
From my 2011 560 IL the small drum kit went from 575 26 10-01 to your 2013 #575 26 10-03
Same with my 2011 562 IPL.  THE oiler gear and bearing are the same .
So whatever is available here in Canada I'll  order . But seeing the 560 is not sold here I may have to go to the Jonsered   version .
Any #s on it or are they the same?
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

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