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What size beams ???

Started by Madman_Mark, February 03, 2012, 11:22:55 AM

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Madman_Mark

What size are the beams/timbers that are usually used in timber frame construction ? Are they 6"x6", 8"x8" etc.... and couldnt I use my chainsaw mill to cut most of these ( over a period of time of course ) ?????

jueston

the beam size will depend on the size of the building and how its built. you could cut beams and then design your house around them, but that would be less then ideal.  it is safe to assume that you will prolly use 6X6's and 8X8's among other sizes.

jander3

You can certainly mill with a chainsaw.  An Alaskan Mill and a Micro Mill are a couple of saw attachments that make cutting beams a little cleaner.   A bigger saw (like 100 cc) with skip chain also helps.   

Rooster

Quote from: Madman_Mark on February 03, 2012, 11:22:55 AM
What size are the beams/timbers that are usually used in timber frame construction ? Are they 6"x6", 8"x8" etc.. ?????

To give you an idea of some of the common timber framed barns in my area... (32ft x 48ft)

Sills- 8x8
Lower tie-beams- 8x8 or 8x10
Posts- 8x8
Top-plates- 6x8 or 8x8
Tie-beams- 8x8 or 8x10
Purlins (Primary)- 6x6 or 6x8
Purlin posts- 6x6 or 6x8
Jack posts- 4x4 or 4x6
Girts/ siding nailers- 4x4 or 4x6
Girts/ over doors- 4x6 or 6x6
Diagonal/ windbrace/ kneebrace- 4x4 or 4x6

Can you cut these with CSM? Yes, I'm sure you can...but if you just cut the beams needed to do the posts, tie-beams, top-plates, purlins, purlin posts, and sills, that's about 3000ft.  That means you would be pushing your chainsaw the equivalent of about 6/10th of a mile for a 32x48ft barn.

Maybe cut some of the smaller members, and hire out the big stuff.

I hope it helps.

Rooster
"We talk about creating millions of "shovel ready" jobs, for a society that doesn't really encourage anybody to pick up a shovel." 
Mike Rowe

"Old barns are a reminder of when I was young,
       and new barns are a reminder that I am not so young."
                          Rooster

Madman_Mark

Thanks Rooster that helps alot....but how perfectly 'square" do these beams need to be in order to use for some of this ? Its hard to get perfectly 'square' beams with my CSM,thanks.

shelbycharger400

anything structural...straighter the material, easier it is to work with. nothin worse then trying to assemble a pretzel!

Jim_Rogers

Learning to layout joints using the square rule method of timber framing help you to use beams that are not truly square.

Having two sides 90° to each other is best, at the least.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

jander3

If you want to cut with a CSM.  The Micro Mill below works very well for squaring up the timber.   



 

I cut the top and bottom with the Alaskan Mill and then use the Micro Mill to square up the edges.  You can cut quite square timbers with a chain saw.  You still need to square rule as Jim mentioned.

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