Who makes the best/easiest sharpeners ? does any of them do multiple chain sizes?
Bosco, you'll have to search this site and YouTube for chain sharpening. Everybody has their own best way and favorite tools. I think the TimberLine sharpener is one of the most fool proof, but they're pretty expensive. A lot of people use files most of the time, and then a grinder every once in a while.
You didn't give us much information to go on but as John said there is no best for all situations sharpener. You can spend anywhere from a couple dollars for a file and then learn how to use it to multiple thousands of dollars for a fully automatic unit that you hang a chain on and hit start. They all do the same basic work and every one of them can sharpen a chain razor sharp when properly adjusted and operated or dull it completely if operated in a hap hazard manner. There are 2-3 common sizes of chains as it pertains to the sharpening equipment and another couple that are run into only occasionally that you probably dont need to worry about. Some systems easily adapt to the needs of the various chains others are tedious or chain specific.
More information on what you are doing and your equipment would help others to get you going in the correct direction.
I've used files for decades, I'm usually in a hurry and dont do a great job, so I just grab another chain, I have alot of chains now! and sometimes I take them in and get sharpened but as mind numbing as it can be I dont mind doing my own, sooo a dremel or that Timberline thing looks to be a little faster? better? I have 3 saws all use different chains, and I'm looking at a new pole saw I've taught my wife to use a saw but shes not as careful about hitting dirt or rocks!
Sounds like it's time to invest in a cheap grinder how many chains sharpenings does it take to pay for one?
I did pick up some new files, didnt really relize a new file works soo much better than an old one !
Okay Bosco. Filing is a good way. If I can learn it then you can probably learn it, or do it instantly. And don't forget to file those depth gauges. Everyone's had the experience where they sharpen their chain but it still isn't cutting. Check the raker height with the depth gauge tool and it's a tiny bit high so you file them. Then your saw cuts wonderful. I think it's faster and easier to use a big file than those little files they sell with depth gauge tools
I have the Oregon grinder. not the one with hydraulic Assist.
then a six foot piece of wood, 1x2 or 1x3, with two hooks per chain.
the first hook is for dull chains, the second hook is for the sharp chain.
i found out that my homelite 4618c and my husqvarna 45 have the same chain, just different lengths. so i purchased a second bar for the husqvarna 45 to use on the Homelite. Yes the mounting area is the same, Holes, slots, oil
and that my homelite - electric UT43122B and echo 310 also match in the same way
and Echo expand-it pole saw and Ryobi 18v chainsaw also match in the same way
so i have now gone from 6 chains to 3 chains.
I really like the Homelite UT43122B and Echo 310.
i used letter envelopes that had glued themselves shut to label each set of hooks
then added a second envelope below with a black line to show the length.
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For years I used a file with reasonable success but a few years ago I bought some diamond mandrills for my Dremel tool and was surprised how well it did. Using the Dremel method I was able to get a more uniform tooth angle, a much sharper edge, and quite a bit quicker.
This past Christmas my daughter surprised me with an Oregon 410-120 Saw Chain Grinder. Setting it up was easy and I was sharpening in no time at all, it's that simple. Something I like about this method is I'm able to keep all the teeth close to the same length plus the tooth angle is consistent as hell.
The 410 probably isn't considered the "professionals" choice but to sharpen my personal changes once a month it's a perfect solution if you want quality and great results.
I do a lot of saw repair. I use a hand file for my own chains. If I had a bench mounted grinder I would be constantly asked to sharpen chains and I just don't want to.
If not for that it would be really cool to have a Silvey. Might have to sell my truck to afford one.
I have an Oregon 510 we many use for rakers as well as .404 .080 harvester chains, the rest are done on the Silvey's there's a huge difference in quality of the grind especially when you run square chisel just going from their entry level grinder to a pro sharp makes a huge difference.
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Files are very disposable. If they are not aggressive you will lose your concentration. Sometimes they are made poorly . If the chain has hit something hard, the damaged teeth will not file because they are to hard. Also grinding any saw teeth [steel] case hardens the tooth surface to some degree so if you file you should not also grind, technically.
I hand file 2-4 strokes per tooth every other refuel. when it starts cutting crooked i use my timberline to true everything up. its not necessarily foolproof, you do have to develop a nac for getting it set up to get both sides the same.
Quote from: moodnacreek on February 18, 2018, 10:48:20 AM
Files are very disposable. If they are not aggressive you will lose your concentration. Sometimes they are made poorly . If the chain has hit something hard, the damaged teeth will not file because they are to hard. Also grinding any saw teeth [steel] case hardens the tooth surface to some degree so if you file you should not also grind, technically.
Your description of grinding sounds as though the grinder is being operated by someone who does not know what they are doing. I hand file my chains. I do not own a grinder. On the rare occasions when I do have a chain ground, I can tell when it was done by someone not skilled in operating a grinder. When someone good does it, I can hand file afterward with no problems.
I got a couple Pferd Sharpeners (https://www.amazon.com/PFERD-17301Pferd-Chain-Sharp-Filing/dp/B003M4LGPE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521747371&sr=8-2&keywords=pferd+chainsaw+sharpener) a few months ago and have been very happy. My hand file sharpening was always hit and miss (never took the time to learn properly) but these are easy and so far I've had great results. The round files are replaceable with off the shelf files. It's the same as the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpener. Pferd is their supplier from what I understand.
Alan
Quote from: alan gage on March 22, 2018, 03:47:13 PM
I got a couple Pferd Sharpeners (https://www.amazon.com/PFERD-17301Pferd-Chain-Sharp-Filing/dp/B003M4LGPE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521747371&sr=8-2&keywords=pferd+chainsaw+sharpener) a few months ago and have been very happy. My hand file sharpening was always hit and miss (never took the time to learn properly) but these are easy and so far I've had great results. The round files are replaceable with off the shelf files. It's the same as the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpener. Pferd is their supplier from what I understand.
Alan
I've got a Pferd and a Stihl and noticed the rakers on one side weren't taken down as far on one side when using either. Have you checked yours after filing? I need to see if I have something put together wrong.
Quote from: tawilson on March 23, 2018, 06:26:08 AM
I've got a Pferd and a Stihl and noticed the rakers on one side weren't taken down as far on one side when using either. Have you checked yours after filing? I need to see if I have something put together wrong.
I have't checked mine. Will have to look close and see.
Alan
I consider myself a good freehand filer but i always wanted to try the 2in1 sharper so i bought one. I'm pretty amazed how easy it is to use and with very good results. A very good tool for people who aren't that good with free hand filing.
For me the hardest thing in free hand besides to get like 3 angles right in one stroke is the height of the cutter. i always tended to sharp one side a little deeper than the other, so the deeper cutter gets a more aggressive angle on the edge and will cut more but dull faster. The 2in1 tool eliminates that error.
So the 40$ is well spend money IMO
If the chain is on the saw i hand file unless its really dirty rocky firewood and an almost smoked chain with rounded chisel point.. Then ill freehand it with a milwaukee18volt and 6" disc until chain is dead.
If the chain is off i use a junky hazard fraught plastic piece of junk grinder. You cant trust the angle measurements or stops because of slop and flex in the whole system, but if youre skilled you can get a chain off it that throws chips. Eveness from each side is the challenge.
Someday i will build a pro quality grinder just to say i did. For now i try to remind myself stopping before the cutter is smoked is 90% of the challenge. Im pretty good with a hand file if i dont let the chain get too far gone to begin with.
I bought a Pferd when they first came out and thought it work pretty good I never had the patience for free handed filing. A friend of mind moved to a acreage and needed a saw I give him a old 041 and the Pferd to sharpen the chain and he has gotten real good with it. I mostly sharpen with a old 308 belsaw sharpener. I need to buy a nicer one.