What a great read! After cutting my first set of brace pockets (that will be hidden anyway), this couldn't have been more timely! Cutting into a 8x14x26' sill - making two 14"x14" lap joints at the ends, four brace pockets, four 6" deep notches (for Simpson straps later) and a 2x10 post tenon pocket - 6 hours later I have a new appreciation for tolerances. My forth pocket went a whole lot faster than the first! So for 11 "½ joints" that comes to 1 hour per joint, though I hope my tenons go quicker then the mortises.
Sold - to me, yesterday. I've just got to get down there to pick it up.
... and no, it's not road legal. I've heard that some folks have added highway rated tires, lights, and fenders and registered it for over-the-road use, but I've not personally seen one set up like that. (I have seen a number of them running down back roads without any of those modifications, however.)
« Last post by pineywoods onToday at 10:42:38 AM »
Dirt, sap, rust, etc on the blade will throw the reading off. What's important is the difference between the blade thickness and the tooth. Sounds like yours are right on.
As long as the diameter of your clevis is larger than that of your rope, the knot is the weakest part of the whole system. It will break there before it breaks at the clevis. Any bend in the rope weakens the rope. What knot are you using?
Figure 8 has the best efficiency. In rope rescue we switched from bowline to figure 8 years ago because of that.
A Butterfly knot generally has better strength than a figure 8 knot, but a figure 8 is stone simple to tie and to inspect. As you get into smaller diameters, a Double Fisherman's knot will even beat a Butterfly knot - but it has some real disadvantages - one being that once loaded it is extremely difficult to untie.
I called Brian from Woodmizer Canada, he tells me I only have ever bought .045 blades. I have never bought .055. If I deduct the .075 from the .055 I get a .020 set, which is what I like on the hardwood blades, a 9 degree blade. When I check my older 10 degree blades I get a reading around .082 which would mean i have a set of .027 , which is good for sawing white pine. is it possible the inch scale on the meter is wrong? did the little guy from China have the wrong numbers in it? This is bugging me to no end. I have been measuring everything ...
As long as the diameter of your clevis is larger than that of your rope, the knot is the weakest part of the whole system. It will break there before it breaks at the clevis. Any bend in the rope weakens the rope. What knot are you using?
Figure 8 has the best efficiency. In rope rescue we switched from bowline to figure 8 years ago because of that.
Here are some after photos of the front field clean up. What a mess it was. Glad to have my 8n up there!
Place of Rest. Very comfy!:)
Next two photos are where I would go to clean up in the evening. Northern Lake Huron, about 5 minutes from the cabin. Each night I was there by myself. It was awesome. Because of the very stable sunny weather the water was quite warm, although it dropped twenty degrees over night the last day because of storms way to the south that turned the lake over.
I have a lot of pecan, I have a friend that has a plantation and I get a lot of trees from blow downs. This past year had two trees that were struck by lighting. When I go them they fungus growing out the sides. Pecan will spalt and be pretty These trees were not to hard they milled easy. But as stated those that I have milled a green and let dry are hard you almost need a jack hammer to use as a tool to turn a bowl that said. Here is a pick of the last one that I cut that was lighting struck and left standing for a year the hart wood is still ok and it has spalted. As you can see with the hammer and wedge it almost was too big for my mill. I can cut 32" wide. I cut it in 2 and 3 inch slabs for table tops and benches. I think if you have use for it and the wood is not too punky you can turn or build some nice pieces out of it.
Do you still have the box the blades came in? If so, what does it say? I always thought that the set was the amount the tip was pushed over. If it is set .075" and it is an .045" blade I do not think it will saw very well, however I've never tried to saw with that kind of a set-up. Something does not sound right. GAB
« Last post by Roger Nair onToday at 09:48:39 AM »
So the number I would offer is 23/32 flat to flat, however you should do a mock-up and arrive at your own spec of what is tight enough but does not wedge and over stress the bores. If you are working on a shaving horse, place a go-no-go bore through the horse. Your hand and eye will learn the spec
Maple it is. The bark was nearly identical to white oak. I did not cut the stakes out of this maple. He wanted white oak which is what he will get. Thanks to all for your help on this. Maple would probably last a couple of years and would rot off at ground level. Need to get a good iPhone bark identification app .
I'm building a little TF garden pergola, and would like to make my own pegs this time. I've got some nice dry, straight-grained white oak. My question is: are 3/4 inch octagon pegs measured on the flats as 3/4??
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that said. Here is a pick of the last one that I cut that was lighting struck and left standing for a year the hart wood is still ok and it has spalted. As you can see with the hammer and wedge it almost was too big for my mill. I can cut 32" wide. I cut it in 2 and 3 inch slabs for table tops and benches. I think if you have use for it and the wood is not too punky you can turn or build some nice pieces out of it.
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