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Sawmills and Milling / Re: One step ahead

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 11:17:12 PM »
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.) Good storys.
Back in the days when i first brought home the excavator, my now exwife's comment was: but there is just room for one person in the cab!?(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
Kinda like kayaks and treestands.  Those other handy dandy things you buy to get away from "it all." 
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Full time sawyer

« Last post by YellowHammer on Today at 11:09:57 PM »
Good luck and git er done!
General Board / Re: Building a campsite on my tree farm

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 10:58:13 PM »
The snakes dont bother us, but they do a number on the mice.   
Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Log Cabin Foundation

« Last post by Don P on Today at 10:58:09 PM »
We had a discussion here on the home front a week or so ago that sort of pertains to what we are talking about here especially pier footing width and thickness. A wide footprint is a good thing but the footing also needs to be thick enough to support the pier safely.  I had done the main house a few years ago and Rick is bringing in a modular house for an aging parent. It will sit on a perimeter crawlspace foundation with a row of piers down the middle inside the foundation. The inspector was kicking things up to an engineer as per a note on the plans and I was asked to comment. Anyway some of this might help.

 I'm just a bystander on this one, Rick and Will are the guys on the ground so they rule.

 I think he just needs a sealed okey dokey letter. I don't know if you can do it by letter (that would be my choice if it'll fly) mark up the existing plan or will have to generate your own.

 In layman's terms I would call the soil decomposed foliated rock, the striping was still quite clear digging out the basement of the house. >2,000 psf easy, that would be my default soil bearing in lieu of testing. It is better than double that. 

My take on it, footings, reference table R403 and figure R403.1(1).  That would be a 6"x12" footing.

I typically use 8x16 footings with 2 strands of #4 rebar under something like this.

Foundation walls, specify plain masonry (unreinforced) 8" block, max 6' tall, 5' max unbalanced fill. Reference  R404.1.1(1)

 Note the 13.5k pier, I'd specify a 32"x32"x12" thick footing w/2#4's ea way with a minimum of 3" of concrete cover pier solid grouted and call out dimension on the other piers, 2'x2'x8", double stacked crossed block, watch your heights unless grouted. reference R404.1.9 .

That is the best load detailed foundation plan I've ever seen....

Holler if I can be of any more nuisance,

Jun 13 (11 days ago)

to Rick, Lukas, me

I was thinking jimmy told me that the footing was always 2x wall thickness x at least 8” thick. Not sure what his hold up is.   Footings on my house are 2’x8”  with 8” steps to stay below the frost. Fireplace footing was 2’ wider and 1 foot deeper than the shell will be. That’s what he told me to make it. Lukas had it drawn out for me though. Btw jimmy was really bragging on my plans. Way to go Lukas. 

Don & Michelle 
Jun 13 (11 days ago)

to Will, Rick, Lukas
That 2x wall thickness is typical but not always. The 6x12 I quoted from code is a minimum, I've never done one that small.

The soil bearing capacity and load determines minimum footprint to avoid sinking. We usually have very good soils till you get into the silty bottoms. The top right pic  is a typical masonry foundation, P cannot be less than 2". P cannot be greater than T so for an 8" thick footing the projection P can't exceed 8" or you are in danger of "punch through". another way to think about it is the load leaves the foundation wall and flows through the footing on the way to the ground at no shallower than a 45 degree angle... you see that logic throughout the code in wood as well, keep loads stacked or within 45 degrees through materials.
 If for instance in a heavily loaded pier you have to go wide to get enough soil bearing, thicken the footing enough to keep P less than or equal to T so the pier doesn't punch thru the footing. The rebar grid 3" off the bottom is also always a good idea. 
On that pier supporting the ridge LVL's the load is about 13,500 lbs, divide by 2,000 lbs per square foot allowable soil bearing capacity = 6.75 square foot of footing required. 32" square is 7 square feet or 14,000 lbs capacity, check. a doubled block pier is 16" wide which leaves P=8" of footing projecting out on all sides of the well laid out and centered pier. I would go a little over on a heavy point load and make the footing under that pier 12" thick and pour that pier solid. That is the one pier to pay attention to in the interior pier line.

Look at the bottom right pic, if the soil is competent enough under a concrete wall for the loads, you don't really have to have a spread footing. Quantify loads and provide resistance.
Forestry and Logging / Re: Harold's logging supplies ?

« Last post by logman81 on Today at 10:53:35 PM »
Great group of guys, very knowledgeable. I get all my tree farmer parts from the most everything is in stock.
Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Log Cabin Foundation

« Last post by jander3 on Today at 10:51:19 PM »
Foundation for the Stump Ranch.  Dug down 4' (frontline here is 42") .  Filled  with rock, sack-crete and rebar.  Drilled stumps for rebar, coated them with oil and called it good.  Roof keeps the rain off.  Foundation still strong and level after 10 winters.







Likely not as obvious to the perpetrators.  
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Full time sawyer

« Last post by WV Sawmiller on Today at 10:16:36 PM »
   Good luck Bruno.

   Happy birthday Barbender.
Forestry and Logging / Re: Cost for grouser bar versus new shoes

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 10:14:26 PM »
The half inch fuel smokes my (now old) snapon CT3850HO.  I cant imagine a battery 1 inch.  

With air guns a 1" will throw nuts off that a 7ft breaker bar and acetylene wont even touch, i stripped a lotta scrapyard trucks.  

The recovery time on the stacked air tanks isnt bad at all.  If its not ready i pick my nose a little longer then try again.
Drying and Processing / Re: Sterilizing 8x8 white oak beams

« Last post by scsmith42 on Today at 10:01:14 PM »
If you put them in the kiln for several days at 150F, they will honeycomb inside.  Been there, done that.

On the other hand, Timbor does not penetrate very deeply into WO due to the tyloses in the pores.  Fortunately it does not need to go very deep.

I think that I'd lean towards the Timbor.
Drying and Processing / Re: Sterilizing 8x8 white oak beams

« Last post by Larry on Today at 09:54:40 PM »
Bugs show little interest in white oak heartwood.  I wouldn't do anything.
Forestry and Logging / Re: Info on feller buncher brake oil

« Last post by Riwaka on Today at 09:34:46 PM »
Might be looking for an updated version of the John Deere oil guide.
Drying and Processing / Re: Shop Dust Collector

« Last post by flatrock58 on Today at 09:28:34 PM »
My friend got his Logosol 260 going and the woodmaster blower works really good so far.  He has it mounted outside with a 6" open end spiral pipe about 20' long.
Sawmills and Milling / Re: home made band saw mill

« Last post by Magicman on Today at 09:25:28 PM »
I would design the sawmill to use standard blade lengths that are available from blade manufacturer/suppliers.
General Board / Re: Ideas for a blacksmith shop

« Last post by JB Griffin on Today at 09:19:34 PM »
Also I assume you have a commercially produced cast iron forge, if so line or it will almost certainly crack, google Frank Turley forge lining and you should find that he recommended using sand and portland.
Urban and Community Forestry / Re: New Maple Tree

« Last post by Ron Scott on Today at 09:17:15 PM »
Yes, give the tree some time. It's still establishing itself.
Forest Education / Re: Pursuing a Forestry Career

« Last post by Ron Scott on Today at 09:12:08 PM »
Where are you located? In Oregon? Seek out a local professional forester that might become a mentor for you. Also contact the Society of American Foresters (SAF). They have information on "How to Become a Forester" that you might be interested in? Oregon State University should have some as well.
Forestry and Logging / Re: Cost for grouser bar versus new shoes

« Last post by Dave Shepard on Today at 08:57:51 PM »
Go for the chainsaw head impact wrench. I think there are a few to chose from.

Milwaukee is releasing a 1" M18 Fuel impact next month with 2000 ft-lbs. I don't know what the price point is. Their 1/2" is very impressive. 
Forestry and Logging / Re: Cost for grouser bar versus new shoes

« Last post by Gearbox on Today at 08:48:10 PM »
The pads I did for the 850 Case went to the welding school and came back 4 days later all done . cost me a case of beer for the students . no pre heat just 7014 and pour on the heat 3 passes .
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