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Author Topic: Tension on blade  (Read 662 times)

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Offline Grower

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Tension on blade
« on: June 13, 2018, 01:38:34 AM »
An old subject I realise but am I correct with this tension. I am using vernier gallopers to set it by clamping them to the blade at 5" apart while the blade is under no tension then using .018 as the tension reading on a 5 metre blade when being tightened. I tensioned up to .022 today and seemed to get a slightly better result. I have added a photo of what Im doing but cant find it in this forum.
Its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

Offline Grower

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Re: Tension on blade
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2018, 01:41:51 AM »
Here is the link to what I am doing. Growers Place - 20180613 164347 -
Its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

Offline Pabene

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Re: Tension on blade
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2018, 03:55:01 AM »
Grower, You will have a lot better accuracy with a long rod, one end clamped to the blade. Close to its other end you can clamp a shorter rod. Now you can use the caliper and measure, between the rods "free" ends, how the blade prolongs under tension. A guideline for me is to see that the blade is stretched 1mm/1000mm of measured length.

Offline Cutting Edge

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Re: Tension on blade
« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2018, 05:22:29 AM »


Grower,

According to your pictures, you are right in the range you should be on blade tension for most quality manufactured blades.

Keep an eye on your shafting, bearings, hardware, etc. since you mentioned just recently raising your tension in case component is not up to the task.

If you could use a torque wrench on your blade tensioner and find the equivalent you would have repeatability and avoid needing the calipers for each blade change.  Might make life a little simpler/easier.

Looks like you built a stout machine judging by your pictures.  smiley_thumbsup



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Offline Grower

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Re: Tension on blade
« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2018, 08:34:55 PM »
Thanks for the advice everyone. I need to get a lower end torque wrench by the sound of it and yes it would simplify the job quite a bit. 'Pabene' you say it looks a stout machine, thank you, it took me 2 years to build in between head scratching and a 100 other jobs that were on at the time and I was mostly feeling around in the dark as I was building it, took lots of advice at the time from this forum and still didnt know if it would work. It shook all over the place on full revs, the engineer who made the blade pulley's told me they wouldn't need balancing, they did so they had to come off again. Trial and error from start to finish would sum it up. The main drive belt came from Australia, fortunately I measured it up right as it couldn't be sent back, we now know the belt length. The engine, a Mitsubishi K3H which we hadn't had running for some time started high revving at start up and bouncing etc at full revs. A mate of mine here said it was air in the fuel. Try and track it down. Everything was in order until, after numerous attempts at fixing it and being told it was the pump over and over again, we took the primary fuel filter off and hand pumped it in a bucket of diesel, it was leaking air around the hand pump seal at the top which was non replaceable. Rather frustrating but we fixed it this week by installing a brand new filter housing with no hand pump as its gravity fed. This is a good forum but I haven't been here for a while.
Its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.


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