Chainsaw tearout

[revid]

Trying to find a way to minimize chainsaw tear out when sawing of the ends of my logs for my log cabin. Any special way or different chain, file chain different? Was even thinking of 14" circular saw blade in my metal chop saw , my logs ate only 8". Any ideas??

[thecfarm]

I wonder if just sawing into the timber with a hand saw a ½ inch would do it?

[jander3]

Normally a sharp chain should be fine.  However, if you want a cleaner line, score it with a chisel all the way around (flat side of chisel away from log end).  Cut adjcent to the line (as close as you can) cut saw kerf is on the log end side.

Too me that is a lot of time to invest.




 

 

[Greyman]

I would go with high rpm and slow feed and see if that helps.  If not, a backer board clamped or screwed into place should help.  

[DelawhereJoe]

Any chance of a square filed chain as they cut faster, also what saw are you using to make the cuts ?

[revid]

Husky 245

[btulloh]

I would bet on square filed chain tearing out more.  Like using a rip blade to crosscut on a table saw instead of using an ATB.

Maybe file a chain with more angle.  

I'd like to know the answer though for my own benefit.  Seems like the guys with a lot of experience don't seem to have a problem with tearout.  Maybe it's all technique.  Hi revs and enter quick/slow/firm/light/angled/flat.  ??

 . . . standing by . . .

[shinnlinger]

If you scribe the line first with a utility or carving knife and cut just to the outside of it, you will all but eliminate tearout.  You can bevel the edges real quick with a sharp framing chisel to remove tearout if it occurs.

[Lyndaker]

For the corner notches I use a chisel to score the scribe line first. I tap it with a dead blow mallet, then cut about 1/8" from the line and brush the notch to completion with chainsaw. The chisel cut is your completed notch don't touch it with the chainsaw. I score 1/4-1/2" deep. For long grooves cut close to the scribe line then use a 4" grinder with a coarse sanding pad (i.e. 40 grit) to get perfectly to the line without chipping or tear out. It also helps to work with green logs and you will get better fits if you overscibe your long grooves to account for settling and shrinkage. I often cut the long grooves walking forward.  Then the chainsaw doesn't cover the scribe line with chips and sawdust. A very good book that describes these technics in detail is Log Construction Manual. 

[revid]

Thanks bud, does this book cover the butt and pass method also?

[Lyndaker]

I don't believe so. It focuses on scribe fit and saddle notches of natural logs.

[Mad Professor]

What sort of: saw, chain, and how is it filed?

[jander3]

You may find a safety chain with high rakers will cause less tearout when brushing notches as compared to square ground.  However a saw that is at least 50cc with a sharp chain, chisel or square ground should give you a nice clean cut if the chain is sharp.

[ChadRL]

As stated, utility knife works well I used to build log homes and that's the method we used