Need sawing advice on large walnut logs

[rbp3]

I've got a Timberking B-20 and have been given the opportunity to saw a walnut with a diameter of 42" DBH.  I have never sawed anything this big and need some advice on the best way to go about doing it. The TK B-20 specs say it can can saw a max of 32".  A friend recommended ripping the logs down the middle w/ a chainsaw first, but I'm not so sure about that.  I can saw this tree on shares and am also wondering what a fair split would be.  Any advice would be appreciated!

[Magicman]

First,  Welcome to The Forestry Forum.  I am not familiar with your mill, so I'm sure that other TK owners can advise you.

It's for sure that you will have to whittle it down either by splitting or shaving the outside off.  Personally, I would split it.  Other sawyers may off a different/better suggestion.

[Larry]

Welcome to the forum rbp3.

Walnut sapwood is not of high value so I would consider chainsawing off opposite sides.  If I remember right the throat on a B20 opens to 24" which may complicate matters also.

Good luck...clear walnut boards over 10" wide bring a premium.

[ladylake]

I sawed some 40" Elm logs a while ago, a guy with a chainsaw mill cut then into 3 pieces. Still had to chainsaw a little off the center piece as the B20 has 39" clearance between the bed and the bottom of the throat.   Even ripped in half those pieces are a bear to handle, quartered  would be a lot better.   Steve

[Autocar]

Sure hope it's not a veneer log !  ;D

[paul case]

i have sawed a few big logs. over 38''. some but cuts were 52' . those i ripped in half with a chainsaw. not nearly as pretty as customsawyer. the saw i have will swallow 42'' but only cuts 36''. those big ones can be boogers to load. on my mill i had to get the log loaded and then let the log stops down to center the log and block it steady because the stops and clamps wouldnt come up enough to work. then i had to trim the sides with a chainsaw to fit between the mill. i sure wouldnt trim the sides off until you get it on the mill since the turners may not turn that big of a log.
even with all that i still had to use the tractor to help turn it after cutting down almost to the middle. the weight scares me . although walnut shouldnt be as heavy as oak. it will still weigh a lot. i always get a little scared of bending the frame. if the log had 350 bd/ft at $.30 per ft for sawing. that log pays $105 to saw up.not to mention the extra time. pc

[ladylake]

 I just scaled one today 8'  x 32"   at 392 bf, I'd think a 42" would be well over 500bf.   Steve

[WDH]

A log that big should have a lot of clear lumber.  8/4 walnut can bring $5.00 or more per bd-ft, so plan to cut some of the clear portion in the log as the widest 8/4 that you can get. 

[backwoods sawyer]

Splitting a log is a last resort for me. "IF" you can trim it down with a chainsaw and make it work, you will get more of the high dollar wood. Quartering it makes for more narrow boards, eats up a lot of the color and you end up with a nice stack of sap colored boards. On the other hand whittling a log down to size can be very time consuming and labor intensive. Over sized logs are always hard on equipment as well. Some find that they do not mind tackling the over sized logs and others draw a line in the sand when it comes to over sized logs. You have to decide if you want to put the extra effort into it and if you do how much extra effort. Wish you the best of luck with this log.

[captain_crunch]

If you can turn log whittle it down with mill lots of waste with Powersaw unless feller with saw is *DanG good

[redbeard]

I have sawn a few big ones with my B-20 I cut a channel with chainsaw so idler guide wheel can get through cut , Then roll it up and wittle it down till you can manage it in a cant. The big logs that are short ones 7' under, are hard to turn with log turner you have to get them right in the center. I usually take them off with my tractor flip them on ground and put back on mill lined up for next cut.

[customsawyer]

Just bring it to me and I will whack and stack it.
All jokes aside them big ones are not as bad as you would think but it takes time. The main reason I like to cut the big ones in half is the amount of quarter sawed lumber you can get. If you go to my gallery or my web site there are lots of pic of the way I do it.

[Magicman]

Or you can Bibby it down and make it fit.



42" Butt.



Bibby'ed down.

Of course, your Walnut is 42" DBH which means that your Bibby cuts will be full length.

[rph816]

We have a b-20 also, agree with the difficulty in turning the big short logs.  I would trim one side off the log past the sapwood with a chainsaw and then cut a 25" slab out of the rest of the log, you'll get some small stuff off of the narrow flitch but the big center cut would be chock full of goodies.  Quartering would probably create the least waste, but you wouldn't get those real wide high value planks.

Ryan

[rbp3]

Thanks, everyone, for your great advice.  When we get the tree down and bucked up, I'll determine the best method.  I'd sure like to get some nice big planks.  Some say flat sawn is the best with walnut, some quarter sawn, any opinions?  I would think the flat sawn would show more than quartersawn.  Will be sure to take some photos and post them.

[Jeff]

Some say flat sawn is the best with walnut, some quarter sawn, any opinions?

It should be plain sawn if you are looking for the best grain patterns.

[Larry]

What Jeff said.

The neat thing about walnut is even the low grade sells well.  I usually saw 8/4 or 12/4 once the grade drops as there is always somebody wanting turning wood, or something for table legs.

[WDH]

Cut for the widest, best quality face.  That usually means flat sawn.