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ripping chain

Started by sigidi, December 07, 2004, 09:04:22 PM

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sigidi

Ok everybody I'm opening Pandora's box...

I run a slabbing chain on a lucas mill it is currently oregon chain with one right cutter, one left then five cutters ground out left then right etc.

I've been told STIHL are much better than Oregon and better to run 4 or 6 skipped teeth - any opinion's?

Also what are opinions for filing angles currently 15 deg with 5 deg down angle...

Thanks for all the good info
Always willing to help - Allan

Kevin

Stihl makes a good full skip chain for ripping and so does Oregon, right out of the box.

rebocardo

The ripping chain I bought from Baileys is low profile 3/8 reg. full comp .50 guage with 10 degree cutters. I file mine at 10 and 10 and it seems to work well and makes very smooth cuts. I take the rakers down to .030 instead of 0.025.

For slabs 36+ inches I would probably go full skip. I use the full skip and it cuts well, though not as smooth. If I had a more powerful saw it might cut a bit better and some of the roughness might be from me forcing it (user error).

On the big logs I like to use the full skip and various other chains I experiment with to remove the bark and such and then switch to the stuff from Bailey's to get really smooth cuts.

The low profile 10/10 stuff works great in white oak, it tended to gum up with fresh pine, but, not enough to stop the mill. For a lot of pine I think the full skip or reg. profile is better, especially if it is green off the stump.





Avalancher

I have a logosol M-7, and I use a regular winsor chain full comp, ground to ten degree across, and 5 degree down. It is very smooth in the cut, my only complaint is it doesnt do well in hard woods that are over 20 inches or so. I have been milling a lot pine lately, and have no complaints.
I tried the picco chain from Stihl, and wasnt impressed, for the dollars spent, plus the freight it wasnt worth it.

Captain

Avalancher, for hardwood, try a zero degree grind.  10 degrees in some hardwood is too agressive.

Captain

woodwiser

Greetings sawyers,

Please give me an update on your opinion of ripping chain based on my following question. I just bought a timberjig big mill kit from Logosol with two 9 foot aluminum guide rails. I plan on buying a Husky 395xp powerhead. I would like to cut some large southern yellow pines, white oaks, red oaks, poplar, sweetgum and just about anything else hurricane IVAN  blew down on my relatives property back in September 2004. Most of the trees are 25" diameter and up with some possibly 36" in diameter.  I want to have a small kerf and have heard that a picco chain is very nice.  I am thinking of getting a 16" bar and also a longer one like a 24" or even longer to slab through the big ones in one pass ( maybe something like 30" ) Any advice on chains and bars is very much appreciated.

rebocardo

The only way to do it with a chainsaw is to slab it though in one pass, assuming you are not talking about making cants.  I can't imagine running picco chain on a Husky 395.

Using a Husky 365 running full comp 3/8 ripping chain produced lumber people thought was planed. One wood worker person watching me work, that saw some finished stuff lying near by, actually asked me where the planer was, he thought I moved it :-D

If you are buying a 395 and are planning on 36" wide trees, I would go with a 42 inch bar to get the 36 inch wide slab. After 42 inches the bars get rather expensive. $60 vs. $250. Though I would think if you are working by yourself a 36 bar will be fine because moving a 36x2x96 piece of green wood is not going to be a treat because it will probably weigh close to 300 poudns if it is hardwood. So, I would go 24 inch slabs and a 36 bar will handle that fine.

Get a chain grinder with all adjustable angles. The cheap ones like the Speedmaster (which I have) do not have enough adjustments to properly grind ripping chain. When doing that many teeth on at least 4 chains you are going to want a good grinder.



 

Tony_T

Quote from: rebocardo on December 03, 2005, 12:09:08 PM
I can't imagine running picco chain on a Husky 395.



I'm running picco chain with a Stihl 066 powerhead, it's is as big and powerful as a husky 395 and no problems at all, narrow kerf too.

alsayyed

Quote from: Kevin on December 08, 2004, 05:27:39 AM
Stihl makes a good full skip chain for ripping and so does Oregon, right out of the box.

do you know what part number becuase i am looking for one for my stihl 065 chainsaw. Becuase the one I have I do not whether for ripping or just standard gerneral chain thank you

errolc

Cheers guys...I'm a newby to this forum...I'll introduce myself in a new posting...setting up a chainsaw mill for my work as a carver, is my focus at the moment and I've read quite a few posts here and through ArboristSite and the mention of thin kerf chain...my local saw shop tells me theres no sich thing...whats this Pico chain you talk about...I'd be real interested in knowing more
Def: insanity - doing the same thing over & over & expecting a better or different outcome

Kevin

Quotedo you know what part number

Stihl or Oregon?

Welcome errolc, picco is just a smaller cutter originally designed for smaller saws.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

Shawn


woodwiser,

Check this place out. Cheapest saws on the net. 

http://www.npeco.com/
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