Wood-Mizer Brakes

Chuck White · April 02, 2016, 07:27:12 PM

Just wanted to let you guys know that I just finished converting from the "surge" brakes to "electric" brakes on my LT40.

Wasn't a bad job, likely took a total of around 4-5 hours, spread out over about 6 days.

I went to a local RV dealership and bought the backing plates, the battery, the disconnect switch and the 7-pin plug for a total of $203.01!

Everything worked right except for the right turn signal, so I called and the tech advised "switch the green & brown wires on the 7-pin plug, works perfect, brake test and all.

For pulling the wire from the axle to the hitch, I just disconnected the hyd. brake line where it comes out of the main beam above the axle and taped the new wire onto the end of it and pulled everything through to the hitch. I found two breaks in the line, so no one knows how long the brakes didn't work!

Makes me feel a lot better already and I haven't even hit the road with it yet! 8)

POSTON WIDEHEAD · April 02, 2016, 07:49:05 PM

I'm impressed. Do you work on engines too? ;D

Chuck, what do you pull your mill with?

thecfarm · April 02, 2016, 07:56:02 PM

There POSTON trying to drum up someone to fix his motor. Didn't I just see you on some building thread?? ;D
I had electric brakes on a trailer that I use to haul a 40hp tractor had. I had some device with a slide bar so I could adjust the brakes. Sometimes I would forget to adjust it and haul the trailer without the tractor. First time on the brake,I would hear the squealing and remember to set it back.

Chuck White · April 02, 2016, 08:06:33 PM

Dave; I haul my mill with my 2003 Silverado, it also has 4WD, ext cab, and 162,000+miles.

Ray; A few years back when I bought my pick-up, it already had a brake controller installed, so that's one expense that I didn't have!
My brake controller has a little slide on top to adjust the brake application on the mill/or trailer!

terrifictimbersllc · April 03, 2016, 08:21:26 AM

Chuck, where did you put the battery box, got a picture?

Chuck White · April 03, 2016, 11:33:50 AM

I took all of the hydraulic stuff off of the hitch and welded the hitch solid, then bolted a piece of 2x2 perforated square stock to the top of the hitch and used "U-bolts" to fasten the battery box and the break-away switch onto the square stock. The battery is a small gel type regular trailer battery!

No more sliding hitch.

I'll try to get a couple of pics and get them posted.

I'm not very good at that, "still"!

starmac · April 03, 2016, 01:20:59 PM

It usually depends on the weight, but it may or may not be legal without the battery for the break away feature, so a guy could probably eliminate that feature and expense. I have owned trailers with electric brakes for over 40 years, some had a battery setup some don't, but I never remember replacing a battery when they went bad.

VictorH · April 03, 2016, 02:32:50 PM

The breakaway battery set-up is mandatory if you pull the trailer with a commercial vehicle. Get pulled over by DOT and don't have it, will likely result in a citation.

starmac · April 03, 2016, 03:14:42 PM

I can't argue with that but the 20 ft car trailer I bought new 3 years ago didn't come with a break away, trailers with surge brakes are legal and do not have break away backups. I have had to deal with dot for many years and like I have said have not in over forty years have never changed a battery on one, and the dot has never even so much as asked about it.

red · April 03, 2016, 03:20:01 PM

First the solar chargers are good for keeping breakaway batteries charged . But I really like disc brakes on trailers . It is my opinion the cost is cheap and the brakes work much better .

VictorH · April 03, 2016, 03:33:54 PM

Yep many trailer manufacturers sell trailers without stuff that makes them legal for commercial use. After getting pulled over and inspected I had to add the battery/ breakaway to three of my existing trailers. It is cheaper than the fine for not having them. I should add that the trailer is exempt if under 3500# including load. Not sure what the mill weighs??

Red - are there conversion kits for disc set-ups or do you have to replace the axel?

Chuck White · April 03, 2016, 04:25:44 PM

Quote from: starmac on April 03, 2016, 03:14:42 PM
I can't argue with that but the 20 ft car trailer I bought new 3 years ago didn't come with a break away, trailers with surge brakes are legal and do not have break away backups. I have had to deal with dot for many years and like I have said have not in over forty years have never changed a battery on one, and the dot has never even so much as asked about it.

The LT40 had surge brakes and also a break-away that would trip if it disconnected.

Quote from: red on April 03, 2016, 03:20:01 PM
First the solar chargers are good for keeping breakaway batteries charged . But I really like disc brakes on trailers . It is my opinion the cost is cheap and the brakes work much better.

Through the electrical hook-up, the truck will charge the disconnect battery anytime it's connected.

The cost of the disconnect battery could have been eliminated by providing power from the sawmill battery when towing, but that would mean running a wire back from the hitch, then connecting it to the mill battery each time before hitting the road.

starmac · April 03, 2016, 05:28:49 PM

How does the break away work with surge breaks? The mill battery would be fine without being charged by the pickup, as the break away only uses juice when it is activated, sooooo hopefully never. lol

I have never been a fan of surge brakes, they can be a headache when backing up, especially up steep grades and slick surfaces.

VictorH · April 03, 2016, 05:59:29 PM

The surge system on my woodmizer has a lever that a cable is attached to. I'm assuming it's connected in such a way so that when it's pulled forward it smashes the hydraulic plunger buried in the hitch. The lever has a cable attached that is clipped to your truck. It's shorter than the chains but long enough that it's only pulled if the hitch comes loose.

starmac · April 03, 2016, 06:08:59 PM

Mine has no cable, I will have to look and see if it even has the lever, but I never noticed it if it has it.

Chuck White · April 03, 2016, 06:49:21 PM

Quote from: starmac on April 03, 2016, 05:28:49 PM
How does the break away work with surge breaks? The mill battery would be fine without being charged by the pickup, as the break away only uses juice when it is activated, sooooo hopefully never. lol

I have never been a fan of surge brakes, they can be a headache when backing up, especially up steep grades and slick surfaces.

When/If the mill unhooks from the truck and the safety chains allow the mill to separate far enough, the safety/disconnect cable will trip the lever on top of the brake housing on the hitch and apply pressure to the plunger and engage the brakes!

The newer surge brake systems have a place to insert a pin to deactivate the system for backing up in steep places.

Quote from: starmac on April 03, 2016, 06:08:59 PM
Mine has no cable, I will have to look and see if it even has the lever, but I never noticed it if it has it.

You should have a metal piece sticking up through the brake housing, with a hole in it. There's supposed to be a cable there that should extend far enough to hook it onto the tow vehicle.

starmac · April 03, 2016, 07:13:53 PM

I rarely tow mine, if I towed a lot and felt I needed them, I would switch to electric brakes, so that I had some control over them. My thoughts are surge brakes were just a way for the manufacturers to sort of skirt the law, so that anybody could legally pull them with anything.

Chuck White · April 06, 2016, 06:52:28 PM

Left side view of hitch, battery & disconnect switch

Right side view of hitch, battery & disconnect switch

Close-up of Battery mount.

The "previously" moveable, forward part of the hitch was butted to the rear part of the hitch and welded, then the hitch was reinforced, both sides with angle iron.

The perforated square stock is bolted to the top of the hitch.

I suppose that the emergency disconnect battery could be installed inside the hydraulic control box.

Peter Drouin · April 06, 2016, 08:25:28 PM

Looks good, 8) 8)

Chuck White · April 07, 2016, 09:05:00 PM

Thanks Peter!

It won't be long and the mill will be on the road again for the Summer!

Anxious to see just how well the brakes work!

4x4American · April 07, 2016, 09:37:47 PM

Good job

Chuck White · April 18, 2016, 08:47:19 AM

I've had the mill out on the road for a couple of small sawjobs, and it really seems nice when the mill isn't pushing me when I want to slow down to make a turn! 8)

KirkD · April 18, 2016, 09:47:44 AM

Quote from: Chuck White on April 06, 2016, 06:52:28 PM

I suppose that the emergency disconnect battery could be installed inside the hydraulic control box.

So why even have the extra battery when you could hook to the WoodMizer battery that you know is always charged?

Chuck White · April 18, 2016, 10:12:41 AM

If I was to do that, I'd have to remember to connect it whenever I got ready to tow, and with this $50.00 disconnect battery, everything is automatic. ;)

Bandmill Bandit · April 18, 2016, 10:17:29 AM

Quote from: KirkD on April 18, 2016, 09:47:44 AM
Quote from: Chuck White on April 06, 2016, 06:52:28 PM

I suppose that the emergency disconnect battery could be installed inside the hydraulic control box.

So why even have the extra battery when you could hook to the WoodMizer battery that you know is always charged?

My disconnect battery is located inside the hydraulic box from the factory.

Hooking to the mill battery would be a real pain since that battery is mounted on the saw carriage.