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Starting the clearing today for my garage.

Started by Woodhauler, May 02, 2014, 11:47:04 AM

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thecfarm

Have you contacted the power company about a plan? Cost me about $10 a foot.  ::) But the transformer blew and they came and replaced it free. Trimmed up some of the trees close to the lines coming up the driveway.The worse part about the bill,if we would of just contacted them before the first of the year and just got a work number,it would not of cost us a thing. They changed the rules the following year. We knew we was going to build,but did not know about that part of it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

GuyInHuntsville

"Have you contacted the power company about a plan? Cost me about $10 a foot." OUCH! :o I'm in it deep if it goes that way for me....This is about a year down the road before I consider getting electricity...It'll be about 5 years before we can move/build out there or until we pay off the land loan.
At this very moment I'm having issues with the driveway/culvert...It looks bad. :o I wasn't expecting this....Installed Thursday...Looked at it yesterday eve and couldn't believe what I was seeing...Such poor workmanship...Ruts, uneven, barely any rock, end pieces crooked/unlevel/not perpedicular to road...Just sloppy!! I'll have to deal with this. I won't pay him until it's right.


 


  

 


 

chester_tree _farmah

Hmmmm. Is the bottom pic supposed to be what it should look like? Hard to tell from the pics but that soil looks sandy which isn't a bad thing if it is and some settling and packing due to traffic is normal for work like this. Unless u want to spend a ton of money and bring wheeled compactors in. I know soils are different in different regions though. Going forward on your project be sure to specify what you are expecting in detail in writing - If you haven't.

The convert end does look a little sloppy.

254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

GuyInHuntsville

Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 11, 2014, 10:41:43 AM
Hmmmm. Is the bottom pic supposed to be what it should look like? Hard to tell from the pics but that soil looks sandy which isn't a bad thing if it is and some settling and packing due to traffic is normal for work like this. Unless u want to spend a ton of money and bring wheeled compactors in. I know soils are different in different regions though. Going forward on your project be sure to specify what you are expecting in detail in writing - If you haven't. The convert end does look a little sloppy.



Yes...Bottom pic is of the neighbors driveway installed 20 years ago by the state for free. Texas no longer does this.
Pure words of wisdom: You are very right about getting it in writing.....But I never foresaw having a problem....I'll etch Murphy's Law into my brain from now on. smiley_smash I'll consider everything that could possibly go wrong and write it down and discuss with contractor. My problem is my inexperience with this kind of stuff and that's why I really appreciate you guys and this website. :P

chester_tree _farmah

I hear you. U just want to be sure to be specific about what u want but u may  expect an increase in cost if you want things a certain way. For example if you say I need a culvert installed as opposed saying I want a culvert set on a stone bed, covered with at least 6 inches of stone. Than the rest covered with X type screened gravel and finished on the top with pea stone. With all excavated soil hand raked. The price will jump up. The place u don't want to skimp on is your foundation and septic work if u don't have town sewer.

That said you should be able to expect a certain level of competency too. I mean the culvert and ends should be parallel to the road. Not perfect but.... u may want to contact the town or state to have them inspect the work. I am sure they have standards and your contractor may not have met them.
254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

chester_tree _farmah

And if do plan on a finish coat of pea stone or stone dust u want to wait till your construction is done. It can disappear fast with heavy loads running over it. :-)
254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

GuyInHuntsville

Thanks CTF! Also you mentioned the sandy soil earlier...I was told it's cald Sandy Loam soil, whatever that is. I'll do my homework on that soon. Here are a couple of more pics of the driveway leading into the property pretty much dead ending at the pond for now. Will later veer off to the left over the pond dam and back into the woods a little ways. The soil is the same all the way in and dries fast after a rain.


  

 

thecfarm, this driveway and all the trees may present a problem getting electricity way back in there...Maybe do underground powerline? The powerlines run through the property at the front where the gate is...There's an easement/clearing there behind the treeline along the road.

thecfarm

You said TX use to put culverts in for free,just like the power company. If I would of contacted them about a month and a half earlier and just got a work number I could of saved 5 grand. We knew we was doing the house the year before. I contacted the power company about mid Feb.
I went to post this and saw you posted. I went under ground the last 100 feet. Looking back I should have did it all the way. It does look better. The guy that wired the house wanted the transformer up by the house too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

GuyInHuntsville

Quote from: thecfarm on May 11, 2014, 01:28:11 PM
You said TX use to put culverts in for free,just like the power company. If I would of contacted them about a month and a half earlier and just got a work number I could of saved 5 grand. We knew we was doing the house the year before. I contacted the power company about mid Feb.
I went to post this and saw you posted. I went under ground the last 100 feet. Looking back I should have did it all the way. It does look better. The guy that wired the house wanted the transformer up by the house too.

Now I get it....The install services with the power company might be free (just like the TX. culverts USED to be) at this time....And a year from now that may not be the case....I'm going to make a phone call and check into this this week and see about a work order...You might have just given me a very valuable tip ($$). Thanks!

thecfarm

Does not hurt to get a work number.If I only would of known.
Depends in my area who owns the lines too. I guess the phone company can own some, or all. We did not get power here until '86. I called the power company up about '82,2 miles of lines and poles would cost $150,000. This was in 1982. I thought about living here off grid. I called up the phone company and all I had to pay for about 20 poles at a cost of $70 each.  :o I did not make it here until 2000. The people above me put in it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

chester_tree _farmah

Agree with cfarm. U should call. I was in the same boat as cfarm but I think it was few years later. My drive/road is 2400' but there was a decent woods road already up to where I wanted my house. So it didn't take much to spiff it up a little. The power company wanted me to sign the lines over to them. Well the regional manager did. Tried to scare me about maintenance etc. Luckily the field manager was honest. Since l didn't - If I sell lots or for some reason someone else wants to tie into my line the company will have to buy it from me.

254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

GuyInHuntsville

Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 11, 2014, 11:25:54 AM
That said you should be able to expect a certain level of competency too. I mean the culvert and ends should be parallel to the road. Not perfect but.... u may want to contact the town or state to have them inspect the work. I am sure they have standards and your contractor may not have met them.

Thanks....I just sent them a lengthy email with photos. When I was getting the driveway permit the guy was very prompt about replying to email.

This driveway/culvert is costing us $3750 by the way. But we ain't paying 'til it's right....I kinda wish he'd just dig everything up and we part ways and I can find someone else.

Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 11, 2014, 01:45:28 PM
Agree with cfarm. U should call. I was in the same boat as cfarm but I think it was few years later. My drive/road is 2400' but there was a decent woods road already up to where I wanted my house. So it didn't take much to spiff it up a little. The power company wanted me to sign the lines over to them. Well the regional manager did. Tried to scare me about maintenance etc. Luckily the field manager was honest. Since l didn't - If I sell lots or for some reason someone else wants to tie into my line the company will have to buy it from me.

My drive/road is 2400' :o :o :o SWEET!

GuyInHuntsville

The state inspector wrote a very good detailed report about the driveway. Pretty much everything is wrong with it. Sent it to the contractor so now we need to see how to proceed. Calling the electric company next.

Woodhauler

Concrete forms are all up, going to put styrofoam down friday and in floor heating.
2013 westernstar tri-axle with 2015 rotobec elite 80 loader!Sold 2000 westernstar tractor with stairs air ride trailer and a 1985 huskybrute 175 T/L loader!

Woodhauler

Quote from: Woodhauler on May 03, 2014, 06:02:18 PM
Got a couple more loads of brush to haul to my buddy that has a big chiper, and 2-3 more cord of FW for me. Gravel guy should start next week. Got to get the best gravel guy and best deal for me!
I should have said gravel guy that had screened gravel and compacter! My gravel was too boney for the pad! Still gave me a good deal.
2013 westernstar tri-axle with 2015 rotobec elite 80 loader!Sold 2000 westernstar tractor with stairs air ride trailer and a 1985 huskybrute 175 T/L loader!

Dave Shepard

I found that an 8 ton vibratory roller makes a lot of bones disappear. 8)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 09, 2014, 03:36:37 PM
<<snip>>
How you do the groundwork and how much effort and money you put into it depends on the types of soils you are building on and the climate you are building in. To do it right you want to avoid movement. Concrete is very strong but it is rigid and does not like movement or flex. Too much movement can lead to excessive cracking and failure. Any new gravel or soil brought in should also be compacted to avoid setting/movement after the concrete is poured. Footers should be placed on undisturbed soil at eh bottom of the hole or they too should have the soil under them compacted.
<<snip>>
CTF

CTF,

Not to hijack this tread...  My soil is a really, really fine dust in my pine woods.  I dug up what started out to be small rocks to level my foundation area.  Most ended up being 3' to 5' in diameter.  Even down that far, the soil is still a fine dust.  When dry, it does not compact.  When wet, it is soup.  Code for my area requires 24" for frost and code says I can build on the soil and back-fill two feet around the outside (which will also provide drainage).  My site will require me to cut about 18" on the south end and level near the north end.  I was considering laying down some gravel (how much?) to compact and set my foundation forms on that.  I will be filling inside the foundation with 2' of gravel before installing a concrete slab.  Thoughts?

Thanks
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

GuyInHuntsville



"CTF,

Not to hijack this tread..." 


I hope no one thinks that about me and all my posts here, or yours...I enjoy reading everyones posts here about constructing on raw land. I'm learning a lot here. I'm really new to this stuff. :P

thecfarm

You not the first to hijack a thread. The threads all get back to what ever was asked the first time. Oh well.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

chester_tree _farmah

Hey John. I think I and others already hijacked this thread on woodhauler.  ;D

It sounds reasonable. Just be sure when you back fill around the foundation you build up the ground thinkness far enough out from the outside wall so frost cannot penetrate horizontally, and get under your footers and foundation wall.  I am sure you have seen homes built on lower land done the same way. Bascially make sure you hall in enough earth and spread it out in an area far enough around the foundation.

I would say at least a foot of good clean compacted gravel if this is for an average home. I would also run the standard foundation drainage pipe around the outside of the footer and have it drain out towards lower ground. Should be easy at your elevation. This will help keep any water getting to that fine dust under your home. Make sure you cover the top of that drainage pipe with fabric than cover around and over the pipe with a layer of stone and than your gravel.

I also always put a course of rebar in footers. Cheap insurance and adds greatly to the strengh. If you add rebar make sure they don't just lay it in the bottom of the hole. It does little good unless it is surrounded by the concrete.

Hope this helps - cheers.

254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 16, 2014, 09:54:16 AM
Hey John. I think I and others already hijacked this thread on woodhauler.  ;D
:D
Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 16, 2014, 09:54:16 AM
It sounds reasonable. Just be sure when you back fill around the foundation you build up the ground thickness far enough out from the outside wall so frost cannot penetrate horizontally, and get under your footers and foundation wall.  I am sure you have seen homes built on lower land done the same way. Basically make sure you haul in enough earth and spread it out in an area far enough around the foundation.
Yes, I plan to.  Code requires a minimum slope not a maximum but I plan to make it look nice.  Also, I will lay a layer of gravel on top of the dirt to dissipate the rain water coming off the roof (no rain gutters to clog up).
Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 16, 2014, 09:54:16 AM
I would say at least a foot of good clean compacted gravel if this is for an average home. I would also run the standard foundation drainage pipe around the outside of the footer and have it drain out towards lower ground. Should be easy at your elevation. This will help keep any water getting to that fine dust under your home. Make sure you cover the top of that drainage pipe with fabric than cover around and over the pipe with a layer of stone and than your gravel.
Drain pipe is a must with the non-woven landscape fabric.  Used that on my septic as well.
Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 16, 2014, 09:54:16 AM
I also always put a course of re-bar in footers. Cheap insurance and adds greatly to the strength. If you add re-bar make sure they don't just lay it in the bottom of the hole. It does little good unless it is surrounded by the concrete.
Yes - my plans call for literally tons of re-bar laid out in a very specific manner.
Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 16, 2014, 09:54:16 AM
Hope this helps - cheers.
Thanks.  Now back to our regular scheduled programming...
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

chester_tree _farmah

Very cool. Yup I always add a row near the top of walls if there are any. So little cost for so much gain structurally.

Send pics when u can.  ;D
254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

GuyInHuntsville

Quote from: thecfarm on May 16, 2014, 09:53:36 AM
You not the first to hijack a thread. The threads all get back to what ever was asked the first time. Oh well.  ;D
Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on May 16, 2014, 09:54:16 AM
Hey John. I think I and others already hijacked this thread on woodhauler.  ;D
:D :embarassed: You guys are great!

Woodhauler

Back to the subject! Spent all weekend laying styrofoam down and putting the tubing down for the heat! Got a hour or so left before the concrete can be poured.
2013 westernstar tri-axle with 2015 rotobec elite 80 loader!Sold 2000 westernstar tractor with stairs air ride trailer and a 1985 huskybrute 175 T/L loader!

s grinder

Are you pouring the floor and knee walls all in one pour?Or are the knee walls already poured on top of footings? Kind of lost track .

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