I got an IRON deckhand to help me with my sawing!

loudsam · February 19, 2006, 01:19:52 PM

Yea Beenthere, good point about the tires probably already being loaded. Banana Belt? You might be calling me a monkey! Nah, you wouldn't do that, being a cheesehead and all!

Doug

beenthere · February 19, 2006, 01:47:21 PM

Banana belt
That comes from a friend who grew up at Herbster, WI on the big Lake. The lake water would keep a strip along the shore on the 'warm' side apparently, thus the reference to the 'banana' belt. I think it was wishful thinking....... ;D

wiam · February 19, 2006, 02:39:23 PM

I would reccomend the Rimgaurd also. That came in my last tractor. But I would not change if it already had chloride. The damage has already been done. With the loader on the front there should not be much reason to load the front tires.

Will

scsmith42 · February 19, 2006, 03:12:48 PM

Doug, I'd recommend against loading the front tires. With the weight of the loader you won't need them loaded, and it increases the wear on the front wheel bearings.

Ditto the other comments in that the rear tires are probably already loaded, but have the dealer make sure. Also ditto on using something other than calcium chloride, unless that is what's already in them.

Good luck.

Scott

jpgreen · February 19, 2006, 03:15:35 PM

... tell em' you coulda swore the sales man said the tires where already done and ready to go.. :D

loudsam · February 19, 2006, 04:38:41 PM

Do you guys realize how much I've learned just about tractors since I joined this forum?? If I only knew how to drive one :D! I don't imagine all tractors are quite the same, so there's probably not much sense in asking if anyone could give me pointers like how do I know which lever is for shifting gears, etc.
I'll figure it out. You all are sure a help for me though. When I learn something about sawing lumber, and moving logs, and felling trees, I promise I'll be happy to share it with newbies on this forum, like me! If anyone wants to know anything about driving a ship, I'll be happy to teach them! ;D

Thanks guys, 8)
Doug

beenthere · February 19, 2006, 05:01:47 PM

Won't be much different than a shift car, if that is in your experience. There isn't a rudder to steer it from the back (unless you will feel more comfortable driving in reverse at first

).

A few things different will be the main gear shift lever likely will be between your knees. There will probably be several gear selections for forward and some for reverse (all will be different speeds of movement). You probably have a split transmission with say 3 gears forward and one for reverse. and then a second gear shift for another selection of speeds within each of the main gears. The same speed selection will be for the reverse gear as well. Put it in lo until you get used to what will happen when you let the clutch out. I think the 1220 has 12 forward and 4 reverse speed selections. Depending on the work you are doing (slow to fast) you will have many options.

The brakes will come one for each rear wheel. These are used to stop a wheel from rotating, such as when wanting to turn a sharp corner or wanting to stop a wheel from spinning because there is no traction. Just keep in mind that due to the rear differential, when one wheel stops the other goes twice as fast. When in road gear (moving fast) it is good practice to lock the two brake pedals together to avoid applying the brake to just one wheel at a time, for safety.

There is usually a manual throttle to set the rpm of the diesel. When operating, you can decide if a high rpm is needed for the job. Half throttle for learning should work good. Some tractors also have a foot throttle to control the rpm, but don't know if your David Bradley will have that.

Starting the diesel will probably have a particular format to follow and getting help from the dealer would be good here, along with some instructions as to how to operate the tractor and care for it. You should have some good times with this outfit.

Here is a site with more information on the David Bradley 1212

loudsam · February 19, 2006, 05:12:53 PM

Thanks alot Beenthere! I have never had a need or occasion, (even though I've always lived up North), to drive a tractor, or even ask someone what it's like to drive a tractor. I do have some experience with a diesel engine. You don't know how great it is to have someone take the time and effort to tell me these things! Thanks!

Doug

P>S, any other advice is appreciated to the max!

Larry · February 19, 2006, 05:58:50 PM

No brakes on the front axle. Maximum weight on the loader, little downhill, and a slick surface...you could be in for a fast downhill ride with no way to stop. Its not a problem so long as you are aware that it can happen...and happen fast.

Have fun and think safety with that new beast.

loudsam · February 19, 2006, 06:10:22 PM

Hey Larry thanks, I really needed that, (truly). It scares me just thinking about it. Thanks for the warning. At first, hopefully, I'll just be loading logs on the mill, maybe moving them around the yard a little bit. I'm not going to be in a hurry to hurt myself, or anyone else, or any equipment for that matter. Sure helps to know these things in advance.

Doug

scsmith42 · February 19, 2006, 06:30:30 PM

Re tractor operation - here are a couple of safety comments.

First - when you're moving around with a load on the forks, carry it as close to the ground as is reasonably possible, to minimize the potential to tip the tractor over. A pile of cut boards or logs weighing 3000 lbs carried a foot off the ground will hit the ground before the tractor goes over. The same pile - 4' in the air - will dump the tractor over when turning or on a slope.

Second - farm tractors CAN BE DANGEROUS. Every time that you get off the tractor, lower your load to the ground, set the parking brake, and be sure that BOTH transmission selectors (gear and range) are in neutral. I cannot stress enough the importance of putting both the range selector and the gear selector in neutral! It is all too easy to catch one of the shift levers with your boot or pants leg when you're getting on and off the tractor, and if you don't have both levers in neutral the tractor can, AND WILL, jump into gear, run over you (or through a building, over your mill, dog, kids, wife, etc). The newer, "flat deck" tractors are not as dangerous as the older ones that have the gearing between your legs and the high tunnel. but I still prefer not to temp fate...

The 3 point hitch has two levers - up/down and draft. Draft is a sensitivity adjustment that raises the implement when the tractor starts to bog down. For your usage, you probably won't need to change the draft.

Grease your loader and steering zerk fittings on a routine basis with a high quality grease. Modern high-quality greases are usually good for 40 operating hours, but go more often if there is a lot of load /wear on the joint.

Avoid the use of starting fluid if you can. Glowplugs and/or block heaters are much gentler on the engine.

Make sure that the brakes are properly adjusted (wheel and parking) and in excellent operating condition. Check the tire air pressure on a regular basis too. I've rolled front tires off of the rims by picking up maximum loads and a front tire was a little low. The first time this happened to me I was unloading a 3,600lb pallet of cement from the bed of my brand new Ford King Ranch dually. When the tire popped the pallet slammed into the tailgate and made it look like a bananna... Not a good thing for my blood pressure or the neighor's kids sensitive ears...

Don't walk under the loader when there is a load on it. Be aware that most hydraulic cylinders will bleed down a bit, and the tilt cylinders on a loader seem to do this more than the lift cylinders. That means that if you leave a load on the forks, in the air for 30 minutes or so they may tilt down and your load falls off.

Check all of the hydraulic hoses carefully. Any that look severly worn - REPLACE. It is much cheaper to proactively replace than have to replace a bunch of lost oil, not to mention damaging the pump. Getting sprayed with 3000 psi hot hydraulic oil when a hose breaks is not an enjoyable experience.

I would suggest that you change all lubricants and filters (or have the dealer do so as part of the package) right off the bat.

Ditto Larry's comments about having fun while thinking safety.

jpgreen · February 19, 2006, 09:18:55 PM

-and do you have a ROPS on that beast?

wiam · February 19, 2006, 09:44:29 PM

Good point about the ROPS.

Will

Dan_Shade · February 19, 2006, 09:56:30 PM

ROPS = roll over protection system?

wiam · February 19, 2006, 10:28:11 PM

correct Dan_Shade and a seatbelt

Will

loudsam · February 19, 2006, 10:45:32 PM

There's no ROPS on the tractor. Why on earth would you need a seatbelt on a tractor?? Do you guys really wear them? I was thinking that I would install a ROPS, and I like the idea of a protective cage, for falling limbs, etc, around the operators seat. I've even been considering fabricating a heated cab. Why the seatbelt? I must be missing something. So that you wouldn't fall off the tractor, I would think??? Can't imagine that it would be for sudden stops, except to keep from falling off? Scott, Thanks a bunch for all the great safety and operating advice! I've got a WHOLE bunch more insight about how a tractor operates.

wiam · February 19, 2006, 11:08:48 PM

If you have a ROPS you need a seatbelt. The seatbelt will keep you inside the ROPS if the tractor rolls over. If you do not have a ROPS you should NOT wear a belt.

Will

loudsam · February 19, 2006, 11:40:22 PM

Quote from: wiam on February 19, 2006, 11:08:48 PM
If you have a ROPS you need a seatbelt. The seatbelt will keep you inside the ROPS if the tractor rolls over. If you do not have a ROPS you should NOT wear a belt.

Will

Very simple explanation! Thanks Will. I don't know if I would have figured it out! Makes sense now though. ??? Something else I've found out since I've started this thread. David Brown tractors were made in England! They're very popular there, but aren't made anymore. David Brown was a subsidiary of Case, and Case bought them out, or took them over or something. I've searched for parts and they seem to be relatively easy to find. ;D

wiam · February 20, 2006, 01:05:55 PM

On my 995 I gave up on trying to keep regulators on the Lucas alternator and put a Delco on it. Parts that are available at dealer are $$$$. Does it have a paper air filter on the hood?

Will

loudsam · February 20, 2006, 10:42:29 PM

I don't know about the filter on the hood. I didn't see one. But, it was about 15 degrees below, and I wasn't noticing much. I did call the dealer and she said the tires are loaded, she checked while I was on the phone. She's also going way out of her way making sure the tractor is in A1 shape for me when it's delivered. I would gladly give anyone her business ph# and address! Top notch service, so far.

UNCLEBUCK · February 21, 2006, 12:27:21 AM

Usually if its below freezing you should be able to see the frost line on your rear tires from the fluid in them and you can see how much is in each tire. My cousins are clutch riders , feeding cattle and going through gates all day with the throttle set at 3/4 open and they burn up clutches . A clutch should be engaged at idle speed I tell them but its something they never got use to . Congrats on your tractor and I sure would love to hear about your ship driving !

loudsam · February 21, 2006, 12:56:32 AM

Quote from: UNCLEBUCK on February 21, 2006, 12:27:21 AM
Usually if its below freezing you should be able to see the frost line on your rear tires from the fluid in them and you can see how much is in each tire. My cousins are clutch riders , feeding cattle and going through gates all day with the throttle set at 3/4 open and they burn up clutches . A clutch should be engaged at idle speed I tell them but its something they never got use to . Congrats on your tractor and I sure would love to hear about your ship driving !

To show you how DUMB I am; I thought a "clutch rider" was some kind of title for a ranch hand on a cattle ranch! It took me a few times reading the post before I combined it with riding the clutch.

The ships I work on are owned/operated by American Steamship Company exclusively on the Great Lakes. I'm licensed by the Coast Guard as 1st Class Pilot, (not as high tech or interesting as it sounds), but, In reality I'm usually just thought of as 1st Mate or sometimes 2nd Mate and I supervise a navigational watch. I do navigate though, or "drive" the ship. The Captain, also a 1st Class Pilot on Great Lakes Vessels is the REAL pilot. He's the one that manuevers the ship in harbors, etc. It's all probably not nearly as interesting as it sounds!

UNCLEBUCK · February 21, 2006, 01:13:41 AM

Oh I am fascinated by the big ships on the great lakes . My neighbor is a retired ship captain on the great lakes and when he walks into the barber shop everyone just kind of goes silent for a moment because he just has that look about him . Hope you tell about it someday ;D

loudsam · February 21, 2006, 01:31:22 AM

UncleBuck, If your ever going to be coming around the Duluth/Superior harbor for any reason during the shipping season, send me a PM and let me know when you'll be here. I've been riding on a 1000 footer that's up here about once a week. I would be really happy to be able to take you on a tour of the ship. Of course, you would have to stay for dinner.