Suggestions ........

TexasTimbers · February 09, 2006, 06:20:38 PM

I have a reactor/proportioner that I can make SIPs/stressed skin panels with. I also have two 55 gallon drums of Part A and Part B unspoken for, with a 17 second delay built in for making panels. I also have about 300 sheets of OSB unspoken for. So the cheap way to build my kiln seems obvious, except I don't want to use the OSB, because then I need wall treatments especially inside.
So my question is, without having to pay through the nose for aluminum, what cheap material can I inject with foam and then have my ready made walls?
I can use ERC for the exterior so I guess mainly I am looking for ideas for the harsh interior environment.
I can build a jig to accomodate anything even if it isn't sheet goods. Any ideas welcome no matter how rediculous they may seem!

Brad_S. · February 09, 2006, 06:25:27 PM

Is it a dehu or steam? Environment would make a difference on what you could use, I suppose.
Nyle recommends plywood on their interiors coated with aluminum paint.
Maybe ERC on the interior too? ???

TexasTimbers · February 09, 2006, 11:13:46 PM

DH.
And ya think ERC will be ok? It's gonna get the moisture sucked out along with the charge, but then it will take some up again between charges and will add that much more work to the system won't it?
I thought ya did'nt want to use wood for the finished interior of a kiln because of this.

Brad_S. · February 09, 2006, 11:31:06 PM

The aluminum paint should slow it down enough to be a non factor, I would think. ???

Don Lewis, any comments?

TexasTimbers · February 10, 2006, 07:42:40 AM

Aluminum paint yah. Forgot about that option.

Hey I didn't think about this til I just started typin but what if I shoot the panel where just the exterior wall is part of the panel and line the interior of the mold with visqueen so that viola, a panel with just the ERC exterior and a PU interior panel comes out of the jig - would'nt it be ok for the exposed PU to be the wall itself?
PU cures with a hard veneer ya know. Tell me why this won't work. I know I'd have to be careful about hittin the walls but I think it is a great idear! ???

Don_Lewis · February 10, 2006, 10:10:34 PM

Foam panels can work if the foam is at least 2.2 pond density. You can use lighter density but it has to be applied in multiple layers. This can be done with a little imagination. It is okay to use the OSB on the inside. The key thing is to make sure the OSB is never a condensing surface.

TexasTimbers · February 10, 2006, 11:52:28 PM

Yep it is 2.2 lb. But what do you mean re: a condensing surface?

iain · February 11, 2006, 06:42:46 AM

On my kilns (dehumid) if inside the workshop i use 2" fully expanded polystyrene, if outside i use 4" all round, with just a simple stud frame, i line it with 1200 mill damp proof membrane, topped with 3 mill stretched hard board, easy up easy down, the hard board has been used for six years now, and is just starting to get degraded, i dry anything that come my way ;D

iain

Don_Lewis · February 11, 2006, 03:51:58 PM

Nice typing. Sorry. 2.2 pounds per cubic foot.

Any surface in the kiln that is below the dew point will have water condensing on it and will deteriorate. It might be because there is insufficent insulation, a nail or screw that extends beyond the insulation etc. If the surface is well insulated so that it is not below the dew point, it will last a long time regardless of what material is used. If it is wet, it will deteriorate. How it takes to fail will depend on the material.

dail_h · February 11, 2006, 07:53:40 PM

Kevjay,
You might could try a layer of visqueen,a layer of fiberglas mat with resin,then your foam. The visqueen would give you a smooth surface for the fiberglass,then let the foam bond to the fiberglass Might work?????