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10 degree vs. 7 degree blade VS. 4 DEGREE BLADES.

Started by POSTON WIDEHEAD, January 09, 2013, 03:48:54 PM

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POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Tee on April 14, 2013, 09:55:34 PM
I'll do it. Thanks again for your input. Maybe I'll get to meet you up around Hendersonville if that comes to be.

Sounds good.  smiley_thumbsup
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

justallan1

My question would be if I'm not to worried about speed to much, I have a small 6.5 hp engine and I'm sawing pine, what's the best blade to go with for longevity?
Allan

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: justallan1 on April 14, 2013, 09:58:13 PM
My question would be if I'm not to worried about speed to much, I have a small 6.5 hp engine and I'm sawing pine, what's the best blade to go with for longevity?
Allan

Well, if ya held a gun to my head I would have to say a 10°. Woodmizer has tested all types of blades and they say the 10° ( and I agree ) is the best all around blade for Pine. But as for longevity....we are back to all the variables again. So many things can dull and blade QUICK. But as for Pine, I use a 10° and can saw a lot of board feet unless the Grimlins show up.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Tee

Quote from: justallan1 on April 14, 2013, 09:58:13 PM
My question would be if I'm not to worried about speed to much, I have a small 6.5 hp engine and I'm sawing pine, what's the best blade to go with for longevity?
Allan
I know with you reading my questions above, I'm lost in the sea of blade possibilities, but I'm guessing your going to get 4 and 7 degree suggestions.

This is a modify statement but boy was I at the wrong end of the spectrum.

5quarter

Allan...to get the most out of your engine, use 1"x.035"x 1"tooth spacing. with fewer teeth, you are putting more power to each tooth when its in the wood. the reduced thickness of the blade coupled with less set required by each tooth means that the blade has to cut a kerf around .070", as opposed to a .042", which makes about a .090" kerf. a non issue with high HP mills, but with 6.5HP it a huge difference. the caveat is that the 1" .035"s are very flexible and have little beam strength compared to the bigger bands. push them too hard or let them dull even a little and the blade will deflect in the cut, regardless of tension. the keys are a steady feed speed and a sharp band; important for any sawyer, but especially if you need every advantage to maximize the limited HP. Just my 5 cents (inflation adjusted).
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

justallan1

Thanks guys.
When I bought the mill I got an extra dozen bands and am happy with them, I just want to see if I can do better. Sawing 14" to 18" logs with the burned bark left on I got 300bf and still have the flitches to trim, so I would guess nearly 400 bf. I'm fine with that, but figured I may just get what I can for the same money.
I will say this, that little engine thinks there's about 3' difference between 10" and 18". :D
Allan

Tee

Allan, what blade configuration are you using now on that size mill?

justallan1

Tee, I have 1-1/4" x .042 with 10*, I was told. To be honest I haven't tried figuring out what all the little dots on the blade say.
Allan

learner

Poston has the right of it.  It's all a matter of what's involved.  Or physics if you want to get technical.  Technically the Only saws that really need lube are metal cutting saws & chain saws.  Or the really large band and circular saws.
Jig saws, skil-saws, small band saws and the band saws we use rarely need lube.  It's used more to cool and keep the band clean than lube.  I use 1 oz liquid Cascade & 1 oz Pine Sol per gallon of water.  Just adjust to suit your needs.
I adjust the lube for how wet the log is i'm sawing or if it is really sappy.  Oh, I also increase the flow for the wider cuts, in order to keep the band cool.
As for the bands themselves, it all depends on the HP of the saw & size of the log.  From there it's just a matter of learning what works best for your saw.  The less the HP the smaller and thinner the blade the better.  Then you just adjust the feed speed for the best cut.
For the LT 40 we run, the 1&1/4 .055 number 7's are the best for us.  But then I saw everything and i'm running the 51HP engine.
For that the number 7 is the best blade for the many different woods, without having to switch to a 10 for the softer logs.  During the winter i use 4's when the logs are hard and frozen green logs.  For the softer frozen green logs the 7 will still work fine for me.
WoodMizer LT40 Super Hydraulic, MF-300 FEL, Nissan Enduro 60 forklift, 2 Monkey Wards Power Kraft Radial arm saws, Rockwell series 22-200 planer, Prentiss 210 loader

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