iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

NORSE 290 winch control ropes oddity.

Started by backpacker, February 04, 2010, 09:11:51 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

backpacker

Evening folks: This is a i am curious question on the NORSE 290 winch, i did
bite the bullet and finally buy a winch, brand and different features are of no matter now, the deed is done, but i am using it instead of talking about it, so all is good.
Now  the question is that when it arrived there are two ropes attached to the drum lock device[drum lock] which is a "green" rope and the actual winch in control lever has a "white" rope attached to it.
BUT in the manual it shows only "one" rope attached to the drum lock device, running up through a guide, down to a guide pully and up to the winch in lever, then back down to a termination point at the lower pully.
All the guides and hole to pass through are there as the manual shows, but they are not in use, using the two rope method the way it arrived.
The idea being you pulled the left side of the rope loop to lock/unlock the drum and the right side to winch in the cable.
I asked the dealer why the differences in control rope layout, his reply was that the way they have come for 10 years or more, and the boys have always put them together that way= two ropes.
The winch does have a green and white sticker showing the usage of each rope, i am wondering if anyone is using the single rope design as the manual shows? has there been a newer method of rope layout discoved and the manual is old or old method still from the dealer.
Anyone got even a better system would be good to hear of, it works well either way, but just an oddity i noticed.
Tks

thecfarm

I have the 450 model.I have no idea about the one rope usage.Mine is 16 years old,so I have the 2 rope system.  ;)  I can not see why one would be better.Or I should say I don't understand the benefit of one rope.Now if I saw it in use,that might change my mind.I have mine On a Ford 2120-40hp 4 WD.What's attached to your Norse winch.By the way,I have never put a part on my winch and it has seen some hard use.I suppose you are using it for firewood?And also how long are your choker chains?Mine came with 8 footers.It's a real bother to run 6 feet of chain through a choker when you only need 2 feet.I made up 5 short chains,3 feet long for the small stuff.I have 5 slides on mine.I keep the 8 and 3 footers on the winch all the time.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

backpacker

Interesting photos of your site and how you spend your free time:)
Since posting i have switched to the as the manual shows" one rope loop control",
well give it a go and see how it feels and works? But being inventive i also
added a spring to the brake lever to pull it into lock position when the rope is let go.
I couldn't get the thing to flop back and forth as i wanted just by jerking a piece of rope as the dealer said to do...
This spring holds the brake lever in the lock position, pulling that side of the loop pulls it up vertical and releases the brake, pulling the righ side of the loop operates the winch in section of course.
letting go of both when the load is where i want it, winching stops and brake is on, if i want to pull out cable by hand, i manually pull the brake lever fully over which stays in place because the spring i attached is now over center and it keeps the brake lever in the off position. A tug on the left rope loop pulls it back to the vertical position and then the spring pulls it into the locking mode.
This ides does make it a lot less confusing and awkward when operating from the tractor seat, one rope is am improvment there for me at least.
So far so good, tomorrow morning will tell:), and i have the orginal green brake rope in the toolbox, just in case i am toooo smart for my own goodness.
As for the choker length i have 7 footers, still a lot of chain to handle on small stuff, i am using a D40 2WD Farmall, modified a bit for front weight control, and as you guessed smaller firewood, single log/1/3 cord wagon stuff. The workhorse unit here is a1964 CANCAR with a kubota diesel installed.
I will post the test results this weekend, have a good one, and play safe.

thecfarm

Sounds good.Mine is the older model,but I have to give mine a quick jerk to release the brake or to set it.But ones released it's all set.Kinda has a drag on it that keeps it from unwinding when the brake is off.Might need a LITTLE grease to make it flop back and forth.I say a little just for you to know that alot of oil is not a good thing around a 3 pt clutch pad.I never had trouble but some has.I don't set the cog to the winch until I know the logs won't get caught up against something.Most times I don't set it until the twitch is almost up against the butt plate.Have fun with it.I use to use chains.This winch is so much easier.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

backpacker

Evening again: I tried the bump and switch motion but i only got it to the
vertical position in one movement, its plenty loose, close to 1/32 clearance there, i'll give it the work out tomorrow, and it is much faster than the hydraulic one i had before this. Did the initial tighten and grease on it, and brake pads do not like oil on them, thats common sense, but we both know people who thought more was better. but we had to start somewhere learning stuff:) play safe and details of testing later...     

backpacker

 Morning: 8) A wonderfull day in the woods yesterday  coldish side of minus 10
on the "C" scale, snow roads made and only a slight traffic delay due to deer
eating the tops.
I went with the single loop rope control and found it to be a good thing, the spring loaded brake lever worked good also, a proper spring and solid mount is needed
there.
I [ this morning] spliced in a green section of rope on the brake side of the loop, and left the winch side orginal white, will be much easier to identifly which one to pull from the seat.
And with the single loop i don't have extra rope to handle, so in short it works for me, and i could suggest it will works for others, but a person has to try it themselves. I can see where a two rope system works also, if i had started that way, a single rope would "feel" odd to try, but i can now get the brake lever to flop over with the single snap of the rope, after the spring came off.....:)
So what the manual shows is right and what the dealer put together[ matching the winch stickers] is right, just as long as we all play safe and fair when need be.
regards

Thank You Sponsors!