Woodmizer LT10 Log Clamps?

OlJarhead · October 22, 2012, 02:28:13 PM

Just wondering if anyone has advise on using the Woodmizer LT10 log clamps? I seem to have a problem with them not clamping the cant flat on the deck.

It seems to take a lot of effort to get the clamp to both clamp the cant flat on the deck (not lifting the clamp side off the deck and tilting the cant) and tight enough to not vibrate loose.

Any advice appreciated.

beenthere · October 22, 2012, 02:40:00 PM

Sounds like trying to clamp it too tight. Snug should be sufficient and shouldn't vibrate loose.

And be sure the back dogs are still square.... and don't clamp too high up.

Jemclimber · October 22, 2012, 03:01:00 PM

If they are the same clamps that came on my 15 it's just a bad design. Same thing happens with me. Not enough pressure or enough pressure and it lifts the cant. They have updated clamps (which I think are the older style) you can retrofit that I hear are better. About $120. I'm going to make or buy new clamps. It's the only thing I don't like about my lt15. YMMV

dgdrls · October 22, 2012, 05:50:46 PM

I have the new eccentric style and suffered the same issues.
I sanded the cross pipes and that seemed to help with the slipping.
I also do not clamp on bark face,

DGDrls

tyb525 · October 22, 2012, 07:14:27 PM

I have the "cam-over" style clamp on my lt10, it is hard to use with small cants. If you apply enough pressure, it tips the cant. If you apply light enough pressure to not tip it, it vibrates loose.

It's very hard to cut small logs under 12" and cants under 6" without something going wrong with the clamp. It's a shame because this mill is great for small logs.

I'd love to see someone come up with a new clamping system, some kind of pipe clamp or spreader bar system. I have used some woodworking bar clamps with limited success in the past.

OlJarhead · October 22, 2012, 07:54:13 PM

Hmmm....maybe I'll have my neighbor make a bolt type clamp that can swing out of the way.

Something about 1/2" to 3/4" in diamter with a foot on the log end and a sliding rail to move along (like a screw rail) to adjust it and then just fine tune it with the bolt head.

I agree with the last statement: too light and it vibrates off, too tight and the cant tilts. I try not to mill anything under 8" (cant) but have done right down to 4".

I find the mill comes into it's own with 9" to 16" cants.

shelbycharger400 · October 22, 2012, 10:18:58 PM

I had the same problem with my slabber that I built.

They can be a pain, but work. also, If im over or under an inch or so on the opposite side with my screw clamps (threaded rod sharpened to a point) they will climb up or dip down an 1/8th inch or so. currently they are only 8 inches long, work ok for 12-16 in dia logs, but they need to be longer to control the shake. If you can clamp at close to center, make a few cuts, flip the log so their is a flat on the bunks, reclamp.. no more log shake. also.. put the bolts on the angle of the square tube, I have yet to fix this issue, they would stay 90 deg and clamp better if they were done.
You can't win.

Clean Image · October 23, 2012, 12:05:33 AM

Hmmmm....ya, spent good money upgrading(?) to the new style clamps only to experience the same issues.
Mentioned it to WM when I was in having some service done...

Would be nice to find a fix cause it's a frustrating issue...

Bill Gaiche · October 23, 2012, 12:09:25 AM

I noticed at a Woodm

izer show earlier this year that demonstrating a LT10 the fellows were having some problems with the dogs. When they set them the log seem not secure enough for them at least that was my observation. It did push the can't up a little also. I know in my mind that they could design a better dog if they felt that people were willing to go the extra cost. It may be they want to keep the cost as low as possible to sell a good machine which will do the job the way it is. I don't want anyone to think that I am slamming W/M that they don't have a good product for they do. I would buy it myself knowing this. Now what I did was to build my own for my home built bandsaw. They work very good for me. They can put a lot of pressure against the log or cant. To date i haven't had them to fail once. I will post a photo I took a little bit ago of what I built and it is similar to one that someone else has in there gallery. Thats where I got my idea, thanks to FF gallery. Is it perfect, no not for everyone but hope this gives you an idea as to make a mod on your machine that makes things better for you. Good luck, bg

francismilker · October 23, 2012, 01:15:03 AM

Having the same issues with my new (3 week old ordered new) LT-10. I used to have a mill a few years earlier that had some clamps that were homemade. They worked on the same principle as the existing WM clamp does today in that it slid back and forth on a tube. The actual clamp wasn't a camlock style though. It was a screw type clamp. The reason I feel it worked better though was that it wasn't sliding back and forth on a slick piece of pipe. It was mounted to a piece of allthread that was about 1/4" smaller in diameter than the clamp's housing. When you slid it up to the wood and started tightening the screw it bound up good on the rough surface of the allthread and never vibrated loose.

I've turned several good cants into diamonds by not recognizing this problem and sawing away only to realize the cant was cocked several degrees and not sitting flat on the log deck.

Like others have said, it's a great little mill. This is the only flaw I could complain about. It's something I'll work around with some home engineering though. I would still recommend the mill to a new buyer, I'd just try to offer suggestions on a possible fix to the issue.

OlJarhead · October 23, 2012, 02:06:59 AM

I usually can get the log tight enough to not vibrate the clamp loose but not too tight to lift it but the CANTs I often have this issue with.

I think I'll get a sliding dog made that has two screws: 1. To stop the sliding dog from moving once it's in place and 2. to fine tune the adjustment.

I think the key is to have the dog go straight into the CANT at no more then 1" in height (so I can mill down to 1" still).

taylorsmissbeehaven · October 23, 2012, 07:36:42 AM

I have the same problem with my lt 15. I have learned to be very careful and double check before cutting, especially on the smaller cants. I would like to see a pic of your mod if it works out for ya! Best of luck with it, also good to hear from you its been a while since I have seen a post from you. Brian

Hilltop366 · October 23, 2012, 12:22:06 PM

If I am understanding it correctly, the clamp is not staying in place on the slide.

Could you put a cam lock for the slide to keep it in place so you would not have to apply as much pressure to the log?

Another idea would be to make notches on the top of the slide and have a hole or slot to put a pin in to prevent the dog from sliding.

Just throwing some ideas out there, I have screw locks on my home made dogs it is slow.

OlJarhead · October 23, 2012, 01:13:51 PM

The dog does indeed slide back on the rail it's mounted too -- perhaps a screw lock through the dog into the rail would stop that.

Something I may try.

hackberry jake · October 23, 2012, 04:26:06 PM

Bill, that looks a lo like how ez boardwalks clamps operate. I ordered an extra backstop/clamp set for I think $40. They are pretty reasonable. When I added hydraulics to my mill I cut two of the clamps off. If one of you guys would like to try them out on your mill, I would send them to you free of charge. Just send me a pm with your address.

swampbuggy · October 23, 2012, 06:38:04 PM

My first mill was a lumbersmith and I created this clamp from a pipe clamp, It worked fast and pretty good for home made. I used the 3/4 pipe clamp end and put a 1" tee over the pipe as a slide. Most of the time I didn't even have to tighten the clamp. Dan

OlJarhead · October 23, 2012, 09:22:21 PM

I like it! That's the sort of thing I'm looking for -- I know I can have those made when I get the trailer done!

Thanks!

5quarter · October 23, 2012, 10:59:52 PM

My mill is a home brew, but my clamp is similar to the lt-10 I think. I use a lever that works similar to a chain binder, but it can push up a small cant or board that's being resawn if too much force is applied. my work-around is to take a 1x2 sticker and slip one end under the bunk, the middle of the sticker over the clamp bar and then bend the other end of the 1x2 under the adjacent bunk. it applies enough down bearing to keep the work flat on the bunks and only takes a moment to do. and its cheap.

Compensation · October 24, 2012, 07:29:46 PM

I have 2 clamps on mine. I put a few drops of tranny fluid in the cam. The only time i had one vibrate loose is when the mill was not level and the head started jumping. Also i never use just one. I use both and have cut down to 1-1/4" from the bed.