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moving Chase handset sawmill

Started by leeroyjd, October 24, 2016, 04:57:37 AM

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leeroyjd

Good Morning folks,
We are getting a left hand handset Chase sawmill from a friend of ours. Their foundation piers had settled since the last work was done on foundation in 1972. He decided to update to a bandmill.
  The mill is all wood and has been undercover since 1955. To my novice eye it has been very well kept (Like every thing else on his farm).
  54" blade with 48 insert teeth. Lots of spare teeth, tooth holders, insert tools and sharpening tools.  Also a 48" saw comes with it.
   Powered by a 1936 IH gas engine. Flat belt with a twist set up now.I understand this may be underpowered and be expensive to run, but will probably start out with it until we find a diesel.
  We have taken a lot of pictures and measurements as suggested here. Not sure how we will move it yet. Skid steer with forks to load a trailer is one option. Flat bed wrecker is another. Log truck loading trailer?
  The "ways" are 50'  come apart in 4 pieces and the carriage is 20' long.
So any advice on the move would be much appreciated. There will be many more questions about set up soon!
Thanks, Lee
 

Ron Wenrich

We moved ours with a log truck with a loader.  Everything comes apart and are fairly light for a good loader.  You're going to take the saw off the mill, and put it on a saw board.  The ways will come apart, the carriage is unhooked from the cable, and the husk comes off the foundation.  The only heavy piece is the motor.  You'll have to use either chains or straps to lift with the loader.  The motor probably would be lifted better with a forklift, if available.  Skid steer is probably too light and not enough reach.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

sealark37

I moved my Frick with an IH Diesel unit using a 12' tilt trailer.  First load was the two saws, laying flat on the trailer.  Second load was three track sections, winched on on-edge and stacked.  Third load was the center track, with the carriage chained to it. (Heavy).  Fourth load was the husk, which was the most difficult to load because of all the stuff sticking out the bottom.  Last load was the IH UD-14.  It had hubs, but no wheels or tires.  The winch had all it could handle to load on the trailer.  The more machinery you have, the better.  Be very cautious unloading.  Regards, Clark

bandmiller2

Lee, any idea what you will use for a foundation.?? I used sections of utility poles set below the frost line, set in cement. Be sure to leave enough space under your mill to set up a good sawdust removal system. Seeing as your somewhat limited with power a sawdust conveyer would make the most sense. Your mill being a lefty could easily be powered with a tractor PTO. Keep us in the loop. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

leeroyjd

Thanks for the replies!
On the foundation I am leaning towards concrete footings. Are you happy with the utility pole arrangement?
The mill does have a saw dust removal set up. A long box with manure spreader type chain and paddles. Probably what you are calling a sawdust conveyor, right?
Thanks for letting me know about possible tractor power. Right now the two largest tractors we have here are a Ford 3600 and a Fordson Major Diesel. Both around 40 hp. so I may still be underpowered?
Thanks,Lee

bandmiller2

Lee, concrete is the gold standard for mill footings. I went with the utility poles so the mill would not be so permanent. I'am an old man and no one else is interested in milling, so posts could be cut just below the ground line and filled in. A roof over the mill is a must especially with a wood frame mill. What will help you is to do what I call sawmill bumming, travel around and watch other mills and sawyers in operation, you can learn a lot. If you can find a large diesel  farm tractor with poor rubber that can be had reasonable that's hard to beat. Its important for any mill engine to have a good variable speed governor. Most truck diesels have just a limiting speed gov. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

leeroyjd

Would 12" sonotubes work for footings? I have access to a 12" auger.

bandmiller2

Lee, I don't see why 12" sono wouldn't be a good foundation especially if a some rerod was put in them. Probably four foot apart around the husk and where the logs will be turned as theirs a lot of shock in those areas. On the off bearers end they could be stretched out to say 6' depending how large your stringers are. Does the mill have a mechanical log turner, they add a lot of extra side load on the foundation. Personally I like the mills knees a little above my knee height seems to make it easier to turn and work the headblocks. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

leeroyjd

Thanks Frank, you are hired! When can you start?

bandmiller2

Lee, do you have a good location to set up the mill.?? Ideal is on a side hill, logs can be rolled on the dead deck and right onto the carriage, sawdust out the back down hill. Keep you eyes pealed for some big "V" sheaves and belts, flat belts work but not nearly as well. Crossed flat belts help some. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

leeroyjd

Frank the owner of the mill and his son took a drive over and looked at the spot I had in mind. They felt confident it was good.
Will be on the lookout for sheaves and belts, thanks!
Lee

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

bandmiller2

Lee, your in luck to have the help and friendship of the mills old owner. Learning to run a circular mill is like learning to ride a bicycle you just have to do it and take a toss or two. Of course it helps if someone is holding the back of the seat. Do you have a good source of logs.?? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

leeroyjd

Frank I do have a source for logs. Logging is my full time work. I move logs with a forwarder so clean logs too! Plus some acreage here as well.
  I have worked with a lot of great landowners over the years, but this mill owner ranks at the top and I am glad to have his knowledge.
Lee

pwrwagontom

Very interested in seeing how this turns out for you!
I did quite a bit of work off-bearing on a chase sawmill a couple of years ago.

Unfortunately not able to add any helpful insight, but gathering as much as I can from this thread myself!
Never give an inch

bandmiller2

Once you get the mill up and running you will wish you found the mill years ago. A lot of folks are real nervous about having loggers in their woodlots. Some lumber from their logs should open a few more doors. Its good to have the mill as a backup too much snow too much rain work on the mill a few days. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

bandmiller2

Lee, I see you have a 20' carriage that's good, you can in theory at least mill a 24' timber, 2' overhang is acceptable. Most people think if you have a 24' log you can make a 24' timber, only if its dead nuts (hickory nuts)straight, few are. As the logger you have the advantage of finding these perfect logs. There are some mills that cutting long is their bread and butter, and their well compensated for it. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

dgdrls

Hey Lee,

how is the move going??

Best
D

leeroyjd

The move has not started yet unfortunately. I have been busy and lining up helpers who are also busy has not been easy. Frustrating since it has been so mild here.

leeroyjd

Hoping to at least get the carriage moved today.
We plan on rolling it out and off the tracks onto trailer. Any last minute advice on this part of the move? This is a rack and pinion driven carriage.
Thanks,Lee

bandmiller2

Lee rolling it off the track and onto your trailer is the best way, have some planks to support it through the gap. It will be safer for you and the  carriage than lifting it, probably weighs 1-1 1/2 tons. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ddcuning

Lee, good to see another circle mill being set up. Sorry I am late to this thread, my job has been interfering with my personal life for some time now.

As with Frank, I set my mill up on utility poles. Have seen some sinking over the past couple of years and had to shim back to level.

Good luck with the move. When we moved my Frick, it was only about 6 miles away and was on wheels so we just pulled it home with the tractor. Sorry, not help there.

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

jeep534

I moved a o1 frick with a trailer and a come a long.  it was a long day i did not move the track they were wood and rotten but there was a MM power unit as well

good luck
archie

P.S. c cannot wait to see photos of the mill and move

Ron Wenrich

You'll need the tracks off the frame, even if you go to a steel frame.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

jeep534

ron that was many years ago when I was much younger and more energetic lol

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