Past the point of no return! LT40 Manual to Hydraulic

WoodenHead · January 18, 2014, 07:45:27 PM

Today my dad helped me make the changes to the frame of my LT40 manual to accommodate the 2 plane clamp and claw turner. This has long been in planning stages. And although the weather wasn't too great (it was snowing), we pressed on. There's no going back now!

Here are some pics:

Sometime ago we fabricated the add-on piece. We thought we would weld it on before we cut anything out.

As you can see from this pic, we added two sections of 1/4" flat stock to create a gap between the frame and the add-on. This was to allow the torch to do its work:

My dad welded the add-on piece. We let it cool for a bit and I worked on grinding the welds of manual clamp structure.

Things were a little tight on the wheel side, but we got enough weld on there.

The manual clamp structure is gone! (After some persuasion and a little bit of torch work ;))

After a little bit more welding, the torch work begins!

Skipping a few steps, here's the final product. Using a torch meant a good deal of grinding was required. After that we welded end caps back on. Not the prettiest, but not exactly the most ideal positions to weld from either.

To make up for the extra 1/4" distance, I'll be making a shim out of 1/" flat stock.

The next steps are to piece together the two-plane clamp and claw turner. I'll keep you posted!

thecfarm · January 18, 2014, 07:50:42 PM

I'm all ears!!

DGK · January 18, 2014, 08:22:32 PM

Thanks for posting Woodenhead. When my parts arrive and the shop does the frame mod, they said that they would cut the outside face first then weld on the additional frame piece. That way, they could cut the remaining three sides after the new piece is welded. I will mention how you did it. Keep the pics coming.

WoodenHead · January 18, 2014, 08:43:15 PM

Quote from: DGK on January 18, 2014, 08:22:32 PM
Thanks for posting Woodenhead. When my parts arrive and the shop does the frame mod, they said that they would cut the outside face first then weld on the additional frame piece. That way, they could cut the remaining three sides after the new piece is welded. I will mention how you did it. Keep the pics coming.

Dad originally suggested cutting the outside face of the frame or alternatively the inside face of the add-on piece. In the end we just added the 1/4" pieces to the add-on piece. We wanted to keep everything structurally sound until the add-on piece was welded in place. As far as we can tell the frame is still true (i.e. no bends or twists).

Magicman · January 19, 2014, 09:04:07 AM

Your mod is very innovative and yes, it looks good too. ;D

drobertson · January 19, 2014, 09:24:33 AM

Heck yea! looks great! I feel for you in the cold, but I guess there is no time like the present! Can't wait to see the finish product, david

woodhick · January 23, 2014, 08:42:37 PM

Done this to my manual mill some years back. I also welded the outer piece of tube before cutting the inner frame out. I did not have a torch and used a port band bandsaw to cut mine. Been using it for years with no problems. You will NOT be sorry for doing this. Sure makes it easier.
James

Dave Shepard · January 24, 2014, 09:42:33 AM

I would also make the outside vertical cut, then weld on your new piece of tubing. I have a Milwaukee bandsaw that I would use for this as well. Heat from the bandsaw is almost non existent. Fortunately I bought a mill with a two-plane clamp, so I never had to do it, but I have friends with an older manual that might need to it someday.

WoodenHead · January 25, 2014, 05:00:19 PM

Thanks for the compliments and encouragement.

I had an opportunity to work on assembling the claw turner and two plane clamp. Here are some pictures:

The factory hydraulic claw turner bolts on through the holes meant for the manual turner (both sides of the frame).

(For those of you with a factory hydraulic mill, your claw turner is welded at both ends.)

Bit by bit I pieced together the two plane clamp. It is a very interesting design. I'm sure glad I bought this assembly rather than try to engineer one myself.

The assembled product!

For reference to others who might be trying this, I may have drilled the holes in the main frame a bit too close to the top (at 1" on centre below the top of the tube). This gives my clamp head just a very little bit of clearance underneath a cant or log. Perhaps when I plumb in the hydraulic lines and try it out, it may go down further, but I'm not sure.

Now I need to finish the hydraulic connections and weld on a couple pieces for mounting the cylinder for the hydraulic backstops. Beyond that a few more finishing touches and away I go!

BTW: I decided not to paint the stuff, given the cold temps. Someday I'll have to tackle that one. :-\

Gadrock · January 25, 2014, 10:53:42 PM

I want to do the same project myself. If you have some more pics i sure would like to see them. Maybe you could send them to my email.

THANKS

David G

carry on

Peter Drouin · January 25, 2014, 10:58:38 PM

That's a NICE job you did 8) 8) 8)

YellowHammer · January 25, 2014, 11:29:34 PM

That looks real nice. Pretty serious mods, but it looks like they are coming together great.
YH

WoodenHead · January 27, 2014, 12:21:28 PM

Gadrock,

I don't have more pics, except for a couple more in my gallery perhaps. I'll see if I can put together some sketches with measurements. The hydraulic turner and two plane clamp were factory woodmizer parts. I just had to put them together.

My mill is a 2006. It looks like you have an older LT40 (i.e. pre-1997). I'm not sure that the factory two plane clamp or the log turner will fit. You might want to try a Pineywoods hydraulic turner instead. ;)

DGK · January 28, 2014, 09:39:07 AM

Hello Woodenhead,

You mentioned having to do some welding on the frame for the hydraulic backstops. I was under the impression that the log turner kit with backstops was supposed to be bolt on. Could you tell me more.

Thanks

pineywoods · January 28, 2014, 10:12:43 AM

Beautiful job, that turner/clamp combination is a thing of beauty in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. I looked at doing what woodenhead has done on my 95 lt40. Looked like it wouldn't be practical, so I settled for second best (pineywoods turner/clamp). Even with it's limitations, the few times when something broke, I don't saw without it.

WoodenHead · January 28, 2014, 07:01:49 PM

DGK,

Manual mills (LT28, 35, 40) that are 2010 and newer have the mount for the hydraulic backstop built into the frame. On mills manufactured before 2010 (like mine) some modifications need to be made. I had to cut out the mount for the pulley for the manual winch turner in order to allow the backstop connecting rod to move freely. I had to replace a piece of orange angle iron (1.5" x 1.5" I think) that fastens the axle to the frame for the backstop connecting rod to move freely (replaced with 3" x 3" angle). Welding on the cylinder mount is the last modification that I need to make.

DGK · January 29, 2014, 12:35:26 AM

Woodenhead,

Thanks for the info. Mine is a 2009 so I will expect to have to do the same. Any chance of some close-up photos of the added parts?

WoodenHead · January 30, 2014, 08:40:59 PM

I'll post some more pics on Saturday.

Too much to do right now! I'm up to my armpits in electrical engineering work, I have several orders for kiln dried pine/cedar, I have 700 linear feet of 1.5 inch (finished) pine flooring to run, 1200 linear feet of 5/4 cedar decking to deliver and 40 bags of shavings to supply. I'm trying to get my mill back together as quickly as possible and clear the new spot for it. Winter was supposed to be quieter!

DGK · January 30, 2014, 09:20:05 PM

Good to hear that you are busy. No rush, when you get a chance. My parts won't arrive until the end of Feb.

WoodenHead · February 16, 2014, 02:56:46 PM

I promised some close up pictures and here they are:

These are pictures of the 3" x 3" angle iron I added in place of an orange piece of 1.5" x 1.5" angle that fastens the axle to the frame. I had to cut a 45 on the end to allow the backstop arm to travel freely.

Here are a couple pictures of the piece of 1/2" thick flat bar (3" wide or so - it was a scrap piece I had lying around). This allows the cylinder to connect to the last backstop. My cylinder happens to be a tie-rod type. If I'm not mistaken the factory cylinder may be a bit different and you may need two pieces of 1/4" steel welded on with a small space between (that's what it looks like on 2010 and newer manual mills).

That was the last of the welding. I have a few more bolts to tighten and a hydraulic pump to get ready. Then I'm back at it!

DGK · February 16, 2014, 05:58:11 PM

Hi WoodenHead, thanks for adding the additional photos. They will come in handy when I get my parts and start to figure it all out.Hopefully, the wait will be only another 4 - 5 weeks than I can start. I am not starting until all of the parts have arrived.

Regards,

Doug

WoodenHead · February 25, 2014, 07:47:12 PM

I finally got to try the hydraulics today. And I like it! ;D

It is going to take me some time to get used to hydraulics though. It took me about as long to turn the log/cant as it would by hand for the first few attempts. :D With a little practice I might be brave enough to post a video. (Yes, yes, I know...no pics = didn't happen).