log dogs

[coach08]

somebody on the forum made some log dogs that were held tight with a chain and trampoline springs.   I saw it but now cant find it again.  HELP!!
Thanks

[JRWoodchuck]

I believe it is the Linn Lumber style dog.

[Georgia088]

Here old man! Is this what you are talking about?

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=97853.180

[larrydown60]

I know texasben5 on youtube has this feature on his sawmill video

[Crusarius]

That is funny. I just updated that thread today. I am glad ppl are looking. Please, if I can be of any help feel free to PM me or just ask.

[Pabene]

Here is a log dog design I have worked on. It is more for a block or a thick board as you would split or adjust the thickness on. I have made this for a friend. It is similar to the dogs as I have in my "Metesa" log band saw. It slides on a 30 mm steel rod. On this rod the back stops, as also is "perpendicular arms", placed. The design is such the unit slides on the rod. You move it by one hand to the tooth get in contact with the block. Then you lock it by the lever. The lever has a cam as works to the arm. The unit stays locked to the rod by what we call "draw box effect". The tooth has a total Y-movement of 4 mm and a 1,5 mm Z-movement as you can see.  The block is fixed to the bunks in a safe way and it is easy and quick to lock. As the tooth push the block side ways and at the same time pull it down, it keeps the block ready to cut. I have the arm with its tooth just below the lowest position for my blade. The blade can't hit the tooth. I have six of this along my saw bed.

  

 [img]https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/46012
It can be good to know that the force the blade is pulled, through the log, is about 400 Newton in a saw witha 10 Horse power motor. That means, if the cut is high in the block, you need a good "clamp down" force in your dogs to avoide the block is tilted by the cutting forces.

[coach08]

Thanks guys for all the help and advice.