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Started by Jeff, March 23, 2017, 07:54:35 AM

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Don P

Good point, they removed the thermostat for some reason, a compression check one lazy weekend would be a good idea anyway just to know how it's doing. I have an extra head or two in the barn if it ever comes to that, not sure what swaps on those through time.

Jeff

I think they put the wrong cap on it because they lost the first one and it is what they had.. How do I know this? Because I found the rusted up original on top of a shroud between the radiator and the grill where it was probably dropped and never found. I only found it because I removed the shroud to clean and paint it.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Jeff

Removed and refabricated my back bumper to fit my tail lights and plate mount. Also converted the old  cowl lights to parking and turn signal lights. I still have the huge wire harness job ahead of me.


  

  

 
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Gearbox

Jeff If the radiator has a over flow hose just stick the hose in a cup of water and run it until it warms up . Watch for a small stream of bubbles out of the hose . Old foolproof way to check for compression in the cooling system . Only works if you have a overflow hose . Hope you get it figured out you are doing a great job .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

Jeff

I hope I hope I hope I found my over heating problem. While trying to put in the new thermostat that turned out to be the wrong one again, I stuck my pinky in the horizontal bypass hose, or at least tried to. It was completely plugged with hair. So, I tore all that apart down to the top of the water pimp and found the entire bypass fitting plugged. I've got it all back together again without a thermostat, but it's storming now so I haven't tested it. This really could have been the problem! I'd cross my fingers if they were not so crippled up. ;)


  

 
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

DaveinNH

I almost had water come out of my nose on my laptop from the drink I took while reading this post. Spell or auto check can be hilarious "water pimp" :D
Wood-Mizer LT40HD26     Polaris 6x6 Big Boss
Ariens 34 Ton Splitter       Stihl 460, 261, 70

Raider Bill

I think you will be fighting that hair for awhile. By now it's prob got in the water jackets.
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

loggah

Jeff, If you take the water pump off theres also a long steel tube that goes the length of the block that has cutouts to direct water around the valve seats, you may want to check that to make sure it isn't plugged also. Don
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

Jeff

Yes, the water distribution tube.  I test ran it tonight. still heated up.  I think I'm going to have to pull the head and the water pump to get to the bottom of this. 
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

grouch

How much water pressure do you have available at your garden hose? Pull the radiator hoses off, hook the garden hose to the water inlet, aim the lower hose out the door, and let 'er rip for a while. Swap connections and do it again. Might save pulling a head.
Find something to do that interests you.

loggah

Jeff,I have never seen a heater hose connection come out of the bypass! you may be circulating a lot of the water thru the heater core and back into the block, without it going thru the radiator. just for grins take a flat vise grip and pinch off a heater hose and try it. On my tucker they have a metal section in the bottom radiator hose where they pick up the heater hose, and all the other heater hoses use the rear heater port on the back of the head. Just a shot in the dark ,easier then pulling the pump and head.
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

sandhills

I'd be a little leery of pulling the head just yet, anytime you do that one thing just leads to another in my tries anyway  ;).  If it's for occasional use I'd just keep trying to flush it and get it to stay cool, if you want it road worthy and you pull the head then you just as well keep going all the way to the bottom, that's been my experience anyway, just my half a cent worth  :).  Someone else with way more smarts than me will chime in but anytime I've done head work without messing with the block/pistons/rings it seems to tighten things up enough then you're burning oil  :(.  Those older engines can be a little more forgiving but if me, I'd try to stay away from major stuff  ???.

Jeff

loggah, now that you mention it, when I got the truck, there was a heater hose between the ends of the block and the heater wasn't even hooked up. That is certainly worth a shot.    Next thing I try will be isolating the hearter core like you mention, putting the thermostat in when it gets here after doing a major garden hose flush again and also pulling the radiator hose off the water pump so I can get in there and actually see if the pulley is turning the pump blades. I've read there is a shear pin in there.   I doubt that is it because last night the radiator, the heater core, and all hoses were heated up, so the water has to be circulating, but it may be just a thermal flow. I do not witness a flow through the top of the radiator.  I think the water is diverting either because of blockage, or lack there of, as in no restriction because no thermostat.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Corley5

Might be a good time to pop the soft plugs out of the block.  Wouldn't hurt to replace them anyway ;) :)
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

thecfarm

I wonder if the over heating problem was why it was parked many years ago?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Magicman

That has been my thought for a couple of weeks.   ???
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

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Don P

If you want an older engine that was rebuilt and anyone is coming by here on the way up to there...

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Don P

Its the same as yours but in the '34 '35 version, still attached to the trans, been under the workbench since the turn of the century. It is lower hp but I think would bolt up. If I ever put my truck back together it'll have a 350 and auto, just a cool old body on a grocery getter. You're welcome to it if you want it. I'd guess it'll take up most of someones 3/4 ton bed.
I'm about an hour south of I-81-I-77 cross in southwestern VA. I have a loader here. Up at that crossing there is a Lowes I might be able to bribe a forklift out of in the parking lot.

Edit;
reading the book, it's a second series '35 L-6, full length water jacket, should be a direct bolt up. That engine was introduced in '33.
I think it was 201 cid 5.5:1 compression ratio 70 brake HP 3-1/8 borex4-1/8 stroke, yours should be a 217.8 cid 3-1/4x4-3/8 L-6 at 77 HP. I think my carb bore is 1-1/4 yours is 1-1/2, I have a box of those kind of parts that I have no use for...

The previous owner of mine, from memory, rebuilt it and bored it .040 over, bearings are .020 over. He did put some kind of full filtration on it with a modern oil filter. He ran it a very few miles just to confirm the rebuild, his Dad passed and he lost interest. I've never cranked it. All wires, plugs, carb etc are on it, I just pulled it and slid it under the bench.

derhntr

The old girl was looking good today. Nice job Jeff
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Jeff

I pulled the radiator and Got a handful of this crap and a bunch of fine knarly stuff. Its flowing clear now. Gotta get my feet unpruned and then ill go put it all back together.


  

 
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Raider Bill

The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

Corley5

Pop the soft plugs and flush the block.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Jeff

Quote from: Corley5 on August 07, 2017, 03:41:45 PM
Pop the soft plugs and flush the block.
Last resort. The softplugs,are all behind other stuff. I'd have to strip the engine. I dont think there is anything in the block. When i decided to do a major flush today, the radiator would not flow out the bottom.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

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