Cutting with a Lucas swing blade

[boardwalker]

Hi

I just bought a Lucas 8" mill and I wanted to know if there was any way when cutting small boards like 2x2 to 2x6 that the operator could start at the far end of the log and cut back towards himself then flip the blade and make the forward cut so that when you are done with the cut someone cutting by himself could remove the board without walking all the way around the mill?

The only problem I can see is the board dropping down on the blade and getting pulled through the saw.

Please chime in and let me know how other one man operations handle the boards.

Thank you
Craig

[terrifictimbersllc]

That's no problem & it's the way to go when working alone on a swing mill.  You may not need to for smaller stuff but if the board wants to fall onto the blade just slip a wedge or two in as you're cutting it free.

[sigidi]

What he said!  ;)

[Ianab]

The only problem I can see is the board dropping down on the blade and getting pulled through the saw.

I've used this method with the Peterson mills and it doesn't seem to be an issue. The weight of the sawn board and the drag of the rest of it sitting on the log seems to keep it in place. It's not like a table saw where it can twist and pick up a small work piece and launch it at 70mph.

You may create a small nick across the end of the sawn board. Worst case, the board would be moving away from you, and you don't have a helper standing in the way. And no one should be standing there in front of the mill anyway.

[boardwalker]

Hi

Thank you guys for your replies.

Craig

[dgdrls]

Boardwalker,

The riving knife also helps by keeping the piece off the blade as it exits the cut,
Process works well.

If your cutting larger cants or boards this way, use a couple wedges tapped in along the horizontal cut
as your making it to help support the board. This really helps when you double cut on the horizontal position

Don't forget the carriage brake before you move cut lumber off the log.

Best
DGDrls

[Seaman]

BW,
I keep a med size plastic wedge in my right rear pocket. Near the end of the cut, I whip it out, slide it under, and as the blade comes out off the cut, put it right back in pocket. I never turn loose of it. Works great for the heavy stuff also.
Good luck, and keep asking questions. I had a long steep learning curve BEFORE I found FF.

Frank

[sigidi]

BW,
I keep a med size plastic wedge in my right rear pocket. Near the end of the cut, I whip it out, slide it under, and as the blade comes out off the cut, put it right back in pocket. I never turn loose of it. Works great for the heavy stuff also.
Good luck, and keep asking questions. I had a long steep learning curve BEFORE I found FF.

Frank

Frank, I even went to the extreme of cutting the flap off the right rear pocket on all my work shorts, so I could get my wedge in and out of my pocket without it fowling up ;) ;)

[Seaman]

Sidgi, I think I git that trick from your video !

So how's it going Craig ?
Frank

[boardwalker]

Hi

I got my mill set up and now as soon as I get some wooden log bunks made I'm ready to try cutting some logs.

Just a quick question. Are the cam locks that hold the rails supposed to be tight? Mine cam over and get loose. I noticed there are a bunch of black plastic shims in a box of parts I got with the mill are these to shim the cam locks or for something else?

Thank you
Craig

[Seaman]

Craig, they wear with use and loosen. I ordered new ones from LCS (  top of page ), and they tightened right up. Meantime, you can use a thin window shim under the cam to hold it tight, otherwise your rail will vibrate out of square.
FRank

[sigidi]

Hi

I got my mill set up and now as soon as I get some wooden log bunks made I'm ready to try cutting some logs.

Just a quick question. Are the cam locks that hold the rails supposed to be tight? Mine cam over and get loose. I noticed there are a bunch of black plastic shims in a box of parts I got with the mill are these to shim the cam locks or for something else?

Thank you
Craig

Craig, with a new machine, when you first go to apply the camlock, it is really tight, then eases off slightly when in the right position,nothing that causes play. If your machine comes toyou second hand, you may want to look at your rail saddles...which kind of cup the underside of your rail. Over time these flex and this will leave the camlock looseer than it should be and this can promote bounce in the rails when doing vertical cuts.

The fix from Lucas themselves is to take a hammer to them...I know it sounds a bit dodgy,but where the two peices of round bar comeout to attach to the saddle, give them a couple good solid hits (not big hits,just nice and solid) this will bring the saddle up a bit and your camlocks will be better. Or like Frank did, the camlock may be worn from the previous owner and need replacing. I'd try the hammer first before spending any coin.

[boardwalker]

Thank you for the info.

They are snug when the cams are about 45 degrees but then get loose if you try to tighten more. I will see about the hammer trick.

Craig

[boardwalker]

Another question for all you guys with Lucas mills.

What do you push or pull on when you move your mill across the log to make you next cut? I have been using the base of the handle for the cam that locks the horizontal carriage movement, but the carriage seems to take alot to move no matter if I'm moving across the log cutting or just returning to set up for the next layer. I have found that reaching out and grabbing the base of the handle for pulling the saw through the vertical cut works the best for returning the saw for the next layer, but have not found any easy spot to get leverage for going into the log.

Do any of you use lube under the plastic slide on the front of the carriage to make it slide easier?

Other than that problem everything is going great. Getting a good sized stack of 2x2 for my gaff handles.

Thank you
Craig

[sigidi]

Craig, I use the side shift winder    ;)

Back in the old days with my first mill, there wasn't such a thing, but once Lucas made them, I've never not used one! fantastic addition, makes things so easy, takes a lot of strain off your shoulders and thighs - I used to push that lock over with my left thigh to shift it at times.

Putting a bit of 'dry silicone' spray on that nylon block will help too.

But honestly I think its something like $150 as an upgrade kit (might be wrong its been a while since I bought one)- the sideshift winder, once you have one you'll never look back and the added effort it saves...you won't know yourself.