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Is 16% too high?

Started by purple otter, December 12, 2018, 10:42:20 AM

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purple otter

I have some soft maple that I would like to use for door jambs and 3 1/2 inch live edge casing. I thought it was dryer, but my meter says 16%. Am I asking for problems if I move forward with the project? I am thinking that the pieces are narrow enough, and they will be nailed in place ,so I might be ok.Time is not on my side, it has to be done by Christmas. Thanks for any input.

Steve 
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petefrom bearswamp

Way too wet
IMO should be 6 to 8 percent
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Bandmill Bandit

Stable moisture is a function of local average humidity in your region. 

I my region stable is 10% to 14% for most soft woods. Not sure on hard woods. 
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purple otter

Thanks. I grabbed some from the kiln that's 8.5 % and will let the other stuff dry some more.
Hudson Oscar 228 on homebuilt trailer, Kubota B2320 with homebuilt forks,Stihl 028 Super & 029 Super, Solar Kiln .

Greyhound

Inside door jamb or outside?  Are you absolutely sure you are using your meter right and correcting for the species (just checking)?

scsmith42

If the wood will be used outside (such as outside door jamb) then 16% will be fine.

If it's interior wood it really needs to be 6-8%.
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GeneWengert-WoodDoc

In much of NorthAmerica, wood exposed outside and protected from rain or other wetting will equilibrated at 12% MC to 13% MC.  Wood used inside will equilibrate in the wintertime to 6.0% MC and 8% in the summer.
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mredden

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on December 15, 2018, 12:44:21 AM
In much of NorthAmerica, wood exposed outside and protected from rain or other wetting will equilibrated at 12% MC to 13% MC.  Wood used inside will equilibrate in the wintertime to 6.0% MC and 8% in the summer.
I am cutting some Hurricane Michael slabs here in All-Benny, GA. (Southwest Georgia's Extremely high average humidity)The owner of the 32" PECAN tree I am cutting wants a slab table for his screened-in porch at his recreational farm. Of course, he wants it now. I told him I would be glad to make him a "green table" now but dry a couple of other slabs for after that one splits and/or warps.
How dry should my goal be for the ones I set aside  given that their ultimate destination will be quite humid?
The tree owner is my best client in my real life job.

LeeB

Depending on how you attach the green top and if he's willing to use an oil finish you could get away with building it green. The design just has to allow for shrinkage. Warp may be another story altogether. Pecan can be contrary. What kind of table does he want?
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WDH

Quote from: LeeB on December 19, 2018, 07:59:35 AM
Pecan can be contrary.
What?  :D :D :D :D :D
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mredden

Quote from: LeeB on December 19, 2018, 07:59:35 AM
Depending on how you attach the green top and if he's willing to use an oil finish you could get away with building it green. The design just has to allow for shrinkage. Warp may be another story altogether. Pecan can be contrary. What kind of table does he want?
He thinks wants a 9/4" x 32"x 7' double live edge slab top - doesn't care about planing but wants some sanding. Oil finish suits him fine. his "farm" is rustic. I may also make him a butterfly (bookend??) top 42" wide to compare with the 32" single slab to see which he likes best. We'll see how things look when we slab her up next weekend.
I ordered a Granville oiler on December 1. Baileys screwed up my order and I re-ordered on Dec. 12. UPS allegedly delivered it to my house Wednesday night but it wasn't there. Yesterday, I visited a plumbing supply store and we made one up at their counter. The counter guys had fun doing it for me as I told them what I wanted. So, I should finally be able to  start slabbing NYD weekend.

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