Intro Post - Dad's old saw - Husqy 365/372 - Rebuild

Somewhat Handy · January 06, 2019, 01:47:32 AM

Got the cylinder off. Lot's of carbon residue inside. Ran my fingernail around it's circumference and it would catch here and there. Not sure if that's just residue or actual scoring. This one measures 48mm ID which is stock I believe. I think I'd like to upgrade to the 372xpw cylinder on this saw along with the taller air filter. I think the crank may be reusable, but I'll probably get new bearings.

Somewhat Handy · January 06, 2019, 10:01:35 AM

Anybody know what the threading size is for the flywheel shaft? I'd like to make a fitting that will hold a degree wheel when I get down to timing later. Thanks.

Al_Smith · January 06, 2019, 08:48:38 PM

Do what you want about that piston but if you want you can buff it out and it should be fine .A low spot won't hurt you but a high spot could because it can break the surface tension of the oil film which is thin anyway .That saw can go a long ways before it ever dies on the vine .

Somewhat Handy · January 06, 2019, 09:10:52 PM

Is Emery cloth a good choice for cleaning out these cylinders? If compression is still good afterwards, I guess that's what really maters.

mike_belben · January 06, 2019, 10:29:33 PM

Carb cleaner will break down the gum. A ball brush hone with ATF is better than emery cloth but make due with what ya got i guess.

I use a drill chuck to hold my degree wheel. Itll chuck onto any flat crank end regardless of thread pitch or diameter.

Al_Smith · January 06, 2019, 10:33:42 PM

3m green pads and kerosene work well .They are light abrasive and don't leave abrasive residue behind .Some people wind strips on an arbor and use a drill to rotate them.I just use old fashion elbow grease .The end results are the same,mine just takes longer .I once used a flap wheel on a die grinder and ground right through the plating,haste does make waste at times .

Somewhat Handy · January 06, 2019, 10:40:08 PM

Ok. Good suggestions. Thanks!

Somewhat Handy · January 10, 2019, 01:26:05 AM

Pulled the piston yesterday. There's probably a specific tool for this but I just used a brass punch backed up by a 2x4.

The ring snapped during removal. Debating if I should just replace ring for $9 (Caber) or get a Tecomec kit that includes piston, wrist pin, Caber ring, etc for $14.00.

Soaked the piston and cylinder in chem dip for 30 min, followed by scotch brite scrubbing and 1 hour soak hot pine sol and distilled water, then a full day in chem dip while off to work. The piston and cylinder cleaned up nicely, smoother than I expected. The only thing that refused to clean up was the exhaust port. I resorted to scraping at it with a dentist tool, which removed about 60% of the exhaust carbon before I gave up.

This is probably the worst area on the piston, just above the ring groove.

Somewhat Handy · January 10, 2019, 01:33:15 AM

Next pulled the flywheel with a puller I made from 3/16" flatbar I had on hand. Be sure you don't lose the little springs and washers backing up the starter pawls when you take this apart.

Somewhat Handy · January 10, 2019, 01:45:36 AM

Next up is the clutch group. First an e clip retains everything to the crankshaft.

Next comes what looks like a preload or spring washer and the chain sprocket.

Then the clutch drum. Looks slightly corroded.

I'll post more tomorow... dozing off.

Somewhat Handy · January 10, 2019, 10:09:02 AM

Now that the clutch shoes are exposed I can see a loose piece. I'll find out later this snapped of the shoe itself.

Since this dissasembly happened a little out of order there wasn't much left on the saw to arrest the crank for clutch removal. I wound up using a stick of pine wedged between the counterweights and the crankcase. The planing stop on my bench came in real handy as a back stop for the breaker bar. That's the standard 3 prong clutch tool - I've seen several people make these out of 1" sockets. Don't forget, the clutch is left hand threaded, so righty-loosy.

A video would have been better to demonstrate the removal of the shoe clips, but basically you just need to push a flat blade screwdriver against the lip and rotate down on one ear, then repeat the motion on the other ear, so that the notches escape the shoe. Repeat x3 .

Here you can see where that loose chunk belonged.

I'll be replacing the clutch, but for curiosity's sake I found that the shoe was still 3.72mm thick. The service manual suggests replacement at 3mm.

Somewhat Handy · January 10, 2019, 10:35:13 AM

Next came the chain brake spring. Just lever up the far end and pull out to the left.

The rest of the brake band will lift out if you pry just under the attachment points.

Service manual says I need 0.8mm thickness on the brake band. Should be good then.

Somewhat Handy · January 10, 2019, 11:17:01 AM

Now for the oil pump stuff. First the pump pinion (looks like a plastic propeller) just rotates off with finger pressure.

Now remove the oil tube, first by lifting up the rubber shim on the right side. Then rotate and pull up and out.

Then remove 2 allen screws and the pump should lift out with some gentle prying.

This part doesn't look complicated and the spline teeth look good, so I'll keep it.

I also noticed a washer and bushing under the pump. Stored these away so they don't get lost.

Somewhat Handy · January 10, 2019, 11:18:36 AM

All that's left at this point is a crank in a crank case. I'll go back over the pulled parts now and make a list of what I'm going to purchase.

lxskllr · January 10, 2019, 12:09:21 PM

Good thread. Thanks for all the pictures :^)

Somewhat Handy · January 10, 2019, 12:51:45 PM

Quote from: lxskllr on January 10, 2019, 12:09:21 PM
Good thread. Thanks for all the pictures :^)

You're welcome! It might be kinda long, but I'm always grateful when somebody else takes the time to show me all the little details I could miss on a project like this.

Somewhat Handy · January 14, 2019, 12:31:18 PM

Below is my shopping list thus far with prices, parts numbers, and suppliers. The wait-and-see list at the bottom is for stuff that was really costly on shipping or I may be able to substitute for cheaper or homemade alternatives, or I'm still determining condition of the original part.

Sorry for the formatting, the forum text editor isn't playing nice...

Parts
Prices Description HUSQ Reference #

$0.99x2 Bar cover bumper 501 51 72-01

hlsproparts.com

$8.80 Chip Guard next to clutch 503 76 29-02

huztl.net

M5x25 Screws for muffler

Fastenal or TSC

$1.42 Cable for ignition coil

huztl.net

$0.85x2 Chain catcher

huztl.net

$8.88 (2) Fuel Filter 503 44 32-01

OEM from Amazon

$40.00 New Crankcase Half 503 62 68-08

Used OEM from Ebay

$0.69 New metal bar plate 537 04 66-01

huztl.net

$39.99 New Clutch 503 74 44-01

NOS from Ebay

$9.85 Diagram/Gasket Kit for Carburetor (~~KT-K10-WAT~~) (K10-HD)

OEM from Amazon

$14.83 New HD Air filter 503 81 80-04

OEM from Amazon

$9.49 New piston ring

hlsproparts.com

$15.33 Three Bond 1184 gasket sealer

Amazon

$5.99 Crankcase gasket 503 62 72-01

husqypartsdepot.com

$0.99 Exhaust gasket 503 77 59-01

husqypartsdepot.com

$11.99 New clutch side seal 503 26 03-01

husqypartsdepot.com

$7.99 New flywheel side seal 505 27 57-19

husqypartsdepot.com

$29.98 (2) New crank bearings 503 81 78-01

husqypartsdepot.com

Tools

$9.99 Piston ring clamp 502 50 70-01

hlsproparts.com

Wait-and-see / Cosmetic Stuff

Top Cover (cosmetic)
New Huztl Muffler (More flow?)
New muffler heat shield?
New intake pipe 503 96 45-01
Replace all exterior screws with stainless
Clutch side seal extractor 502 50 55-01
Flywheel side seal extractor 504 91 40-41
$5.57 EPA tube 503 40 06-06

hlsproparts.com

$4.36 Fuel tank line 544 32 50-02

hlsproparts.com

Clutch drum bearing 503 43 20-01
Piston wrist pin bearing 503 25 56-01
$17.40 Crankcase splitter 505 51 61-01

huztl.net

New rubber protectors for handle connections

01crewcab · January 14, 2019, 06:20:37 PM

You're doing a bang up job. Just read thru your parts list. I have a 372XPW. The muffler on it is pretty much open on the inside. You can? perhaps find a factory jungle muffler on ebay. I did, but it was a while ago. Looks like some pretty poor oil was run thru it judging from the carbon build up.

Somewhat Handy · January 15, 2019, 01:26:09 PM

Thanks, 01crewcab. I'll probably wait until the thing is back together and running before I mess with muffler upgrades, etc. so I can see the before/after effects. I wouldn't doubt that about the oil, or maybe that's blow by from worn out piston ring?

Somewhat Handy · January 19, 2019, 03:31:15 PM

Hmm.. Got the carb kit in the mail. Started taking it apart and realized I had the wrong kit. The metering diaphragm didn't match. The carbsunlimited website listed the wrong kit. Walbro's site didn't even list the HD-12-A anymore. I think what happened is the HD-12-1 part # replaced the HD-12-A. Every image I can find of an HD-12-1 carb looks just like mine. So, I'll return the K10WAT kit and order the K10 HD kit instead - that metering diaphragm matches, at least. Next time I'll do a little disassembly and compare photos before digging in.

Somewhat Handy · January 27, 2019, 02:46:35 PM

Got the right Walbro repair kit finally. Also ordered an assortment of plastic baggies so I can group the little parts. Also labeled these baggies with the figure numbers in the service manual. I took photos of each part before removal so that I wouldn't get confused about their orientation later.

Pump cover and gaskets, opposite side of carb.

Fuel filter pulled with a pick. Note the debri.

The HI- LO mixture screws. One is longer than the other.

Somewhat Handy · January 27, 2019, 02:53:32 PM

Now the throttle/choke lever arms, butterflies, and spindles.

The butterfly plates seem to have a specific left/right or front/back orientation.

Made note of where the springs were perched and how many times they were wound for tension

This spring mounts in a tiny hole near the gasket surface .

This little detent ball will fall loose if you aren't paying attention. Bagged it immediately.

Jack S · January 27, 2019, 05:04:46 PM

Looks like you are doing ok but one thing that folks miss is making sure the high and low speed orifices that exit in the venturi are clear. internally they are behind a soft plug where crap can plug them up I have salvaged a lot of carbs that get replaced because myself included didn't catch the plugged metering orifices if I'm using the right term. clean em soak em and blow em out. Just think what in a metal carb could wear out? why replace it when usually it's just plugged with corrosion or crap. I hope this helps as I never seem to see this addressed. I admire your determination in restoring this ol saw Good luck Jack

Somewhat Handy · January 27, 2019, 10:50:44 PM

Thanks, Jack. Unfortunately, I've already got the carb back together. The repair kit from Walbro didn't come with a new Welsh plug, of course. A video I was watching on this subject made the same comment. I'll go ahead and order the Welsh plug and work on the rest of the saw. I may try to run the saw and see if there is a before/after difference to be gleaned from cleaning those orifices because I'm curious.

Somewhat Handy · January 27, 2019, 11:23:37 PM

The carb parts are all cleaned now. Chem-dip followed with toothbrush and simple green. These photos may be kinda redundant, since I'm just going back the way I came.

Re-insert detent ball and set spring in this hole.

Re-attached butterfly and checked spring tension

This spring was a little trickier to wind. Ended up winding against the set screw with the spindle partially pulled out, then pushed the spindle home and pried the spring end into place with a pick.

This butterfly slots into the middle of the spindle, don't forget to match the original orientation.

Next comes the step lever (for lack of a better term). Bushing comes first, then you have to hold back the butterfly lever and gently rest the little guy in position and place the screw. Make sure you have your screwdriver in arms reach or you will probably have to start over.