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Sawing White Pine

Started by MikeZ, May 24, 2016, 09:50:26 PM

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MikeZ

Can this be a problem or am I out to lunch? Using near new Kasco 1 1/4 x.045 x 4 degree. Can not seem to make a straight cut, going so slow thru knots till blade comes back to where it should be. Log is 12" dia cut down last fall. Lots of Cascade lube. I don't have much hair left to pull out. (Firewood?)
MikeZ  Homemade  Mill

4x4American

The blades could be dull, your alignment could be off, you could be wearing the wrong color shirt, etc. 


Older pine logs can be tough to keep your blade clean.  Is the blade gumming right up?  Did you try spritzing a 50/50 mix of bar oil and diesel fuel onto the blade to clean it off if it is dull?  That does wonders for me.  It don't take much, just have the blade spinning and give it a few sprays on both sides. 
Boy, back in my day..

MikeZ

No gumming up on blade either side. Blade goes up,down,gets behind rollers. I have played with tension. Some areas it cuts fine, but wherever a limb was is a real B. Thanks
MikeZ  Homemade  Mill

4x4American

Is your drive belt tight?  Do you sharpen/set your own blades?  I just had a problem with this and slowing the blade down helped immensely.
Boy, back in my day..

thecfarm

I have no idea what I am doing???  Better that ways sometimes. Dumb luck??
White pine should saw good.
You said knots? Are they dead knots? How big?
I use 10°,but there again,I have no idea. Last fall is not really a long time,but....
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Chuck White

I use 10° Double-Hard blades and I saw mostly White Pine and Hemlock, and the only issues I seem to have with the Pine is when there is stress in the log, and not much can be done about that.

When a blade follows a knot, it is usually a dull blade!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

GAB

Quote from: 4x4American on May 24, 2016, 10:55:49 PM
Is your drive belt tight?  Do you sharpen/set your own blades?  I just had a problem with this and slowing the blade down helped immensely.

Would you please explain what you meant when you said "slowing the blade down helped immensely".
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

4x4American

I lowered the rpms of the engine and got immediate results.  It is something you are supposed to check every 200hrs according to my manual, but it's not written in the service list part.  I adjusted it below spec though.  Marty Parsons gave me that advice and I am suprised how well it worked.  It's something with the 36 hp yanmars they arent set from WM properly, they are revving up beyond peak power.  I didn't do anything scientific, just made a bunch of test cuts at different rpms until it cut good.
Boy, back in my day..

tnaz

Sounds like good science to me.  Great out come.

GAB

4x4American:
Thanks.
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

Peter Drouin

Quote from: 4x4American on May 25, 2016, 06:34:09 PM
I lowered the rpms of the engine and got immediate results.  It is something you are supposed to check every 200hrs according to my manual,



What?? A slower rpm will cut better.  say_what
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

4x4American

No, the correct rpm will cut better  :D


I was skeptic about it too but it worked.


Don't forget diesels make their power at low RPMs, not like gas jobs. 
Boy, back in my day..

MikeZ

OK folks- Problem solved. Put on a new band and it ripped across that log like butter and straight. I had only made 2-3 passes with other one on 28" SYP. I guess I looked at it wrong or something. Just find it hard to change bands that soon. 4 x 4: new out of box, have not got myself into making setter or grinder yet.  Since this is my hobby, I find the satisfaction of design and building my reward.
MikeZ  Homemade  Mill

4x4American

When you build a setter, make sure it clamps the deflection out of the blade before it sets the teeth. 
Boy, back in my day..

MikeZ

4x4: yes sir! I would like to make that part of a progressive clamp then set in one stroke with air.
MikeZ  Homemade  Mill

ladylake

Quote from: Peter Drouin on May 25, 2016, 08:45:50 PM
Quote from: 4x4American on May 25, 2016, 06:34:09 PM
I lowered the rpms of the engine and got immediate results.  It is something you are supposed to check every 200hrs according to my manual,



What?? A slower rpm will cut better.  say_what


  Yes.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

In many cases, there are too many teeth going past the spot on the log being sawn, which results in fine sawdust and lots of rubbing, which means heat and wobble and deviation in the blade.  In many cases, it can help if every other tooth is eliminated- -hard to do.  (The distance between teeth is the pitch, so increase the pitch.)  A similar effect of getting fewer teeth past a spot is achieved by slowing the blade rpms.  Each tooth, with slower rpm or larger pitch, has to take a large bite or larger chip.  Overall, the feed rate is the same, and horsepower demand is the same, but with fewer teeth (or slower rpms) each tooth is working harder.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

MikeZ

I did find this to be true. Although I put on a new blade, I also backed off the rpm about 200. Didn't want to loose too much power but I did notice the sawdust became more course when doing this. Thanks for every bodies support. Sometimes you get so frustrated it's easy to over think something.
MikeZ  Homemade  Mill

Peter Drouin

Now you would think Wood Mizer would check for that before they send out a new mill,  ::) Good you got it figured out 4x4.
Thanks Mr Parsons.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

4x4American

you would think lol..go look at the boards I sawed for you when I picked it up or have they already gone through the chipper?  That ended up being a control panel problem but still it didnt saw worth a hoot and R said it was just a bad blade lol I fought that and ruined more logs and it took a month til they sent me the right part to fix it. 
Boy, back in my day..

ladylake

Quote from: MikeZ on May 26, 2016, 09:39:26 PM
I did find this to be true. Although I put on a new blade, I also backed off the rpm about 200. Didn't want to loose too much power but I did notice the sawdust became more course when doing this. Thanks for every bodies support. Sometimes you get so frustrated it's easy to over think something.



   If you have a lower hp mill put a smaller drive pulley on the motor to slow the blade down, you'll get more torque to the blade and the slower band speed will saw straighter.  Steve 
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

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