4 sided planer ......

[TexasTimbers]

I got to looking at my planer real close for the first time yesterday, and it looks like to me that once you set the heads for planing lumber to a certain size, you don't just make a few quick adjustments and do some different sizes. Looks like it would take 10 - 20 minutes to adjust the heads.
Am I right? I know no one probably has this particular planer but all the older flat belts would be similiar I'd guess.
Paul, it's not a 5 sider moulder/planer best I can tell. Just your standard 4 sided.
Could anyone using these older 4 sided planers share how you plan your milling? Do you wait and build up one certain general width and thickness then run them through?

[Paul_H]

That sounds about right for time to adjust widths,it may take longer for the thickness adjustments.Mine is real low tech and set up time takes even longer when I have to set up new profile knives on the side heads and an all around change over.

I was set up on Monday to S2S 3mbf of 1" random width VG Douglas Fir for a customer but a closer look showed sand and small rocks in the live edge and in the ends and even a nail in one of the boards.It was a heartbreaker to turn away @30 cents per bf but it would ruin the finish and maybe even destroy the knives.It's something to look for when you get up and running.

[D._Frederick]

My folks had a 4 head American, you just did not go from one size to another without adjustment. If I remembered correctly the top head was used to size the thickness, the bottom head and the right side head was used to surface the board. The left side head was used to size the board width.

Going from 2 X 4, 6, 8--12 required only to set the left side head for width. The old 4 sided planer heads were not easy to change the knives, I suppose with using a dial indicator, it would be much easier.

[karl]

K-
Yer right about taking time to change set up. Mine has a pretty fast feed for the head speed and leaves knife marks so I only use it for framing or skip planing, mostly in s2s mode as it can be a real PIA to get it set so that the side knives don't snipe .

Changing all the knives- now there's a job to teach patience and humility!not to mention having to be a contortionist.

Don't get me wrong- I love the machine- once the tractor gets wound up to 540 rpm, grown men cower and run from all those flapping belts! smiley_fused_bomb

[Paul_H]

Karl,
what kind of machine do you have?I slowed mine down to 1350 feet per hour to get 14 knife marks per inch.I am not set up to joint the knives so I only have two per head.

My customer called today and they ripped the the boards down and cleaned them up so if all goes well,we'll take another crack at it on Saturday (S4S).

[TexasTimbers]

Karl, I have a Q for ya too. What is "skip planing"?

S2S is probably what I'll use it for the most too, unless I run my 4 x 6 braces for the frame through it. 6" is the max height on mine I believe.

Too bad you had to turn that nice job down Paul. Oh well another one will come along!

[karl]

Paul-
Well now, once upon a time I had the name of the machine- but the elves that play around in my office from time to time must have needed that scrap of pap....er Document- thats it document!
Actually it was a small time manufacturer that I have never been able to find. If memory : serves me - it was Gilman or something close- I have a hunch it came from Quebec, Eh? It's built of steel rather than cast and does have ballbearings, was built in the '40s me thinks. I have considered slowing the feed since I have recently salvaged some other pulleys. Had some pics, but the elves got them too....will take some more.

Kevjay- skip planing is planing to -say 15/16"- with the plan of finishing it again to 3/4 . the reasoning is that the lumber stacks better being all the same thickness (not a problem if the sawing is accurate, but there is often some movement/bowing in the cant so that you get thick and thin from end to end)
also some folks say the lumber drys better/faster, it can allow you to see the grain better in some woods too.  You still have rough spots- skip.
I save up the stuff I can salvage out of the last slab on the log ( I have an MD like Paul and Dang)
and run those uglies  through to use for roof strapping under steel or shakes.