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Homemade band saw

Started by Wmarshal14, April 25, 2019, 07:23:12 PM

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Wmarshal14

I would like to start off by saying I am new to the forum and sawmills in general. I just turned 24 and have been a mechanic ever since I got out of high school and I like to think I have a good amount of common sense. But here's my problem, I have been building a bandsaw with some plans I got for free on the web (a lot like linn lumber mill) and I just received my blade in the mail today. So I got it put on and tightened it will walk it's way off of the back side of the band wheel. And information would be helpful thanks in advance 

bandmiller2

Welcome, Its all in the alignment. Cook's saw has a series of videos on bands and alignment they can explain it better than me. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

btulloh

You're probably don't have a big problem as long as you built in the proper adjustments.

Welcome to the Forestry Forum and congrats on building your mill.

We love pictures here. Without pictures, it didn't really happen. If you need some help posting pictures, check out the how to at the bottom.
HM126

Iwawoodwork

not a lot different than if you do an alternator/generator conversion and making sure the pulleys/V belt are in direct alignment  both horizontal and vertical. Its getting the band wheels on the same plane  both H and V.

Wmarshal14

I can't seem to find the how to at the bottom  but I will take some more pictures tomorrow and figure out how to post them

btulloh

I should have said near the bottom. In Forum Help topics. It's not that hard but most people need a little help the first time. The good thing is pictures never go away on this forum.
HM126

Mike W

the how to video is in the main FF page and not in the individual sub sections of the FF.  Jeff did a great job on the video a quick review will have you posting pic's in no time at all, in fact too easy to the point you might get a comment of 'enough already'  naw everyone loves the photos, as mentioned without pics it didn't really happen  ;D

Wmarshal14

Think I figured out how to post pics giving it a try now. 



 

 

btulloh

You got the picture posting thing.  Can't see the details of your tension and tracking adjustment but I'm assuming that's handled.  If you go through the alignment and tracking adjustment as shown in that Cook's video you should be ok.  It's all a bit fiddly until it's right.  Final tracking adjustment is sensitive to the blade tension, so they both have to be right to be right.  

Nice job.
HM126

Wmarshal14

I will take some more detailed pictures tomorrow but it's all manual and all really simple. I watched a few videos today and learned a lot about how I need to be setting my band wheels. I originally thought I needed to toe them out but with the way I have my bearings set up that shouldn't be necessary after I put some thought too it. Also I would like to ask how do you guys with manual tensioner know when the blade is tight enough? 

Mike W

just like bolts, tighten just enough to break em and back off a 1/4 turn  :D.  there are several blade tension gauges out there, not cheap, but not too expensive if you have no other means of judging how tight the blade is running at, they clip on the blade and read the tension via dial meter or digital, google them and you should see several results.  other then that, pretty darn tight and the cuts will let you know if you are there or not..

keep the progress and photos coming...

Southside

Welcome to the Forum.  A band tension meter like mentioned above is a very wise investment.  Too tight and you will break shafts, destroy bearings, etc.  Too loose and your cut quality will suffer.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Wmarshal14

I just looked at some tension gauges and they are a little pricey. I will have to finish up some of these mechanic jobs I have around the yard befor I can afford one of those  :D 

Iwawoodwork

question, in looking at your photos and the angle of the saw teeth are  you going to be pushing the saw thru the wood rather than pulling it ?

RAYAR

Quote from: Iwawoodwork on April 26, 2019, 10:51:17 PM
question, in looking at your photos and the angle of the saw teeth are  you going to be pushing the saw thru the wood rather than pulling it ?
It appears to be set up to pull through.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (431,000 Km)

Wmarshal14

My plan is to push it thru the log. The engine was given to me by a friend and I haven't gotten it running yet but that's on the to-do list this weekend. 

thecfarm

A half turn can make it stay on or fall off. ;D  Watch the blade as you turn it by hand. If the blade starts to move the wrong way,turn the bolt/nut the other way. Or that is how I do mine.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Den-Den

As mentioned, tracking adjustment has to be just right.  The difference between the blade running off the front and running off the back is not much and getting it just right takes some time.
As far as tension - for many of us the frame, shaft and bearings limit the tension more than the blade does.  It will cut best with high tension if your machine can handle that.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

Ljohnsaw

Also, when putting the tension on the band, that can affect the tracking - at least it does a little on mine.  The tremendous forces exerted on the band wheels can tweak your frame ever so slightly and cause the band to move.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Hilltop366

Quote from: Wmarshal14 on April 26, 2019, 11:33:50 PM
My plan is to push it thru the log. The engine was given to me by a friend and I haven't gotten it running yet but that's on the to-do list this weekend.
Welcome Wmarshal14, looks like you are off to a great start!

For blade direction it would be best to pull the blade through the log, pushing will give you problems. Just like a belt the pull side is tight in between the pulleys while the opposite will flutter, it is not ideal to have the cutting side on the "slack" side.

A link to a low cost diy tension gauge thread. http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=7923.0;all#lastPost

Wmarshal14

I like the diy tensioner I will definatly be trying that out thanks for the info!

Crusarius

Looks nice. I love the color. 

When I built my Linn sawmill I powered it in the direction they had the plans for. I wish I had reversed it for a few reasons. Main reason, I am sick of flipping the bandsaw blades I buy from woodmizer to run the opposite direction. another reason was engine location if it was behind the blade I think it would have balanced quite a bit better making raising and lowering easier. I know my mast design would have been very different making a much stiffer carriage.

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